Worklog The Nintendo Swiitch - BocuD's first Wii portable

BocuD

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Ouch. I'd still try to fix the short and see if that revives it. You should probably get a better iron tip if that's what knocked them off. You should probably get one anyways, as a narrow tip will make soldering to the little things a LOT easier.
Yeah, will do :D
this iron seems like it's just too big. The other regulators are fine though... I'm just going to hope I can fix it. I can alway try to measure what the resistance is using the other regs and try to replace it, using normal resistors of course. I hope I can revive this one though since I have a LOT to do in order to finish the portable in time for the contest.
 

BocuD

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well I'll try to just remove the cap then, and TRY to replace the SMT resistors. I don't think I'll be able to resolveer SMT parts though so I'll probably just order a PowerMii Lite from @Noah
 

BocuD

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Okay, so i was trying to relocate the U10 and i think i really messed it up...
Anyone know how to fix it?
image.jpg

I destroyed the pad where i am supposed to add the wire and i also destroyed some other pad, but this is messed up in the guide as well so i dont think it is a problem. But that one pad... also, how can i remove the U10 without killing it?
 

Stitches

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Okay, so i was trying to relocate the U10 and i think i really messed it up...
Anyone know how to fix it?
View attachment 2751
I destroyed the pad where i am supposed to add the wire and i also destroyed some other pad, but this is messed up in the guide as well so i dont think it is a problem. But that one pad... also, how can i remove the U10 without killing it?
If you clean the area, you can find and scratch the trace that runs to the pad and solder a short wire from the U10 to that.

As for not destroying it, a good iron, some flux and a desoldering braid are handy. A good set of de-magged tweezers help too.
 

BocuD

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If you clean the area, you can find and scratch the trace that runs to the pad and solder a short wire from the U10 to that.

As for not destroying it, a good iron, some flux and a desoldering braid are handy. A good set of de-magged tweezers help too.
Okay, I'll try that after I get a new iron and will finish bluetooth first then.
 

cheese

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I actually did the exact same thing on my board, the pad in the opposite corner of the wire pad isn't needed. As for the pad that would have the wire, I would suggest doing what I did, lift that pin on the u10 and solder to that. It seems there is something underneath there that makes it not work right...

As for removing the u10 I just cover it with solder until it just lifts off with the iron and then flick it on my desk :P The u10 can survive quite a bit of heat, I've never destroyed one doing it this way
 

BocuD

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w-what
How is that supposed to work
Also what soldering iron do you guys use? Mine seems to put me down every time.
 

jefflongo

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w-what
How is that supposed to work
Also what soldering iron do you guys use? Mine seems to put me down every time.
You put a blob of solder on the 3 pins on the one side and a blob of solder on the 2 pins on the other. Then you heat both sides repeatedly while pushing with tweezers so the solder stays liquid and it can be easily removed. Here's a good and affordable soldering iron.
 

BocuD

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You put a blob of solder on the 3 pins on the one side and a blob of solder on the 2 pins on the other. Then you heat both sides repeatedly while pushing with tweezers so the solder stays liquid and it can be easily removed. Here's a good and affordable soldering iron.
Thanks, ill look into it. I'm currently using a digital one with thermometer and stuff but it has a really big tip. Can I also just replace the tip or do I actually need a new one? If i want to be able to solder wires to the nand for instance, will the iron you linked be sufficient?
 

jefflongo

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Thanks, ill look into it. I'm currently using a digital one with thermometer and stuff but it has a really big tip. Can I also just replace the tip or do I actually need a new one? If i want to be able to solder wires to the nand for instance, will the iron you linked be sufficient?
Most irons have replaceable heads. Just get a pencil tip. It's pretty versatile for everything. You could get an even thinner tip for the NAND if you're worried about it but it should definitely be possible with a pencil tip.
 

BocuD

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Okay, I'll buy one of those then because my iron definitely has replaceable tips.
 

cheese

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A larger tip would be fine, also you don't have to bother putting two blobs, I always just have one big blob that covers the whole chip :P

But if you iron has a replaceable tip, do that for sure, the ones with the temperature settings are almost always good
 

BocuD

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A larger tip would be fine, also you don't have to bother putting two blobs, I always just have one big blob that covers the whole chip :P

But if you iron has a replaceable tip, do that for sure, the ones with the temperature settings are almost always good
Okay, then I will do that. With this tip it was already hard to solder to the bluetooth tets pins, but I don't have any flux so maybe getting that will also help. Thanks!
 

BocuD

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Okay, I just removed all of the onboard regs and hooked my wii up to 3 bench power supplies. I don't know how its possible its working, but it is so im happy with it. I then trimmed my motherboard, and now I'll have to sand for an eternity. Whatever, everything for a working Wii portable. I also just ordered the L7009, and it will replace the 480x234 display I'm currently using. I also trimmed around 5mm around the red line to be safe.
IMG_5217.JPG

Pics of the trimmed motherboard:
IMG_5231.JPG

Does it look like I can get this motherboard working, after I solder the U10 on?
 

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jefflongo

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Okay, I just removed all of the onboard regs and hooked my wii up to 3 bench power supplies. I don't know how its possible its working, but it is so im happy with it. I then trimmed my motherboard, and now I'll have to sand for an eternity. Whatever, everything for a working Wii portable. I also just ordered the L7009, and it will replace the 480x234 display I'm currently using. I also trimmed around 5mm around the red line to be safe.
View attachment 2805
Pics of the trimmed motherboard:
View attachment 2804
Does it look like I can get this motherboard working, after I solder the U10 on?
Definitely sand it good, especially the area above the NAND, you can see copper pieces on there.
 

BocuD

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Okay so after ~ 5 Wii motherboards (and fucking up everytime trying to solder a wire to the "U10 via") i just gave up on trimming a Wii. It is the most important part of my Portable so i had a question. Can a mod move this thread back to the Wii worklogs so I can finish this build later? When I get a new soldering iron and am able to have practiced some via wiring on old Wii motherboards, I might try to finish It and I really want to. For now I have another project that I want to submit and I hope you'll like that one. Its an Altoids Tin Pi Zero Portable NES Classic Mini clone based on a Raspberry Pi 2.
 
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