Worklog The Nintendo Swiitch - BocuD's first Wii portable

Discussion in 'Wii' started by BocuD, Mar 13, 2017.

  1. BocuD . .

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    Also, i just trimmed my motherboard and found out that i might have gone too far... is this motherboard dead? Or can i revive it? Or is it fine?
    Here is a picture
    image.jpg
    Side of the nand:
    image.jpg
    Front:
    image.jpg
    Nand from further away:
    image.jpg
    Also, there is a audio amp soldered on right now thats the weird board on the bottom.
    Edit: forgot picture
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017
  2. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . . .

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    It might work, you got extremely close to the nand there. Hook it up and find out?
     
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  3. GingerOfOz no wario Staff Member . . .

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    Pretty sure the board is dead unfortunately. You removed a cap along the edge of the NAND that is necessary for the board to function. Toaster912 did the same thing twice so I doubt you'll be able to revive that board...
     
  4. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . . .

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    Eh, just try it, it's possible it may still work...
     
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  5. jefflongo Broke BitBuilt Staff Member . . .

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    I don't think that little cap next to the NAND is necessary for boot. IIRC it's a filter for 3.3v
     
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  6. BocuD . .

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    Okay so i dont know how or why but its actually working! After 9 dead wiis i finally have a working trim! :D
     
  7. Stitches 2 and a Half Dollarydoos Staff Member . . .

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    You have no idea how lucky you are there :P
     
  8. BocuD . .

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    Yeah you're right.. I maybe REALLY lucky but I'm also REALLY happy. I'm hooking up bluetooth right now, and hope it will work since even when I plugged a bluetooth module in its socked (before trimming) it didn't work. That might have been because of those 22 gauge wires sticking out, but whatever. I'm now using the thinnest magnet wire my electronics store had. It's about 0,15mm thick so it should work right?
     
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  9. Davuld86 .

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    Buy a lottery ticket dude, because that's some incredible luck you have right now
     
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  10. GC64 .

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    Woah, this is madness :0

    You should be good since 0.15mm is 38 guage wire, which is definitely thin enough for bluetooth.
     
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  11. link270 .

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    This work log has been an emotional roller coaster to read through! Can’t wait to see more updates.
     
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  12. Toaster912 .

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    I'm jealous lol good job getting it to work! :) Oh and I didn't do that twice the first one I accidentally cut the 1.15 voltage line off by accident
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2017
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  13. BocuD . .

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    Okay, so I haven't updated this worklog in a while so here's an update. When I get home I will post a bigger update which includes the state of the Wii and shit but for now, I'm almost done with my case. This is how it looks right now:
    Screen Shot 2017-07-25 at 11.44.25.png Screen Shot 2017-07-25 at 11.44.44.png Screen Shot 2017-07-25 at 11.44.14.png
    I have already test printed a few parts with PLA and I'm NOT happy with the results. All of my prints warped and they are under extruded. I'm now printing a new left controller part with colorfabb-xt and it seems to work much better. One of my test prints has all of the buttons in it for scale
    These are my test prints:
    IMG_5689.JPG
    IMG_5696.JPG
    Also, at this point I didn't create the button holder yet to stop rotation so thats why the + and - buttons are aligned like that. The Abxy buttons are from a DS lite, (I killed one for this purpose since the ds lite was free and Its bottom display was dead)
    This is the new print:
    IMG_5698.JPG
    I'm printing at 250 degrees Celsius so thats why there is some messed up filament between each part. After filing it should be perfect.
    BTW, here's a picture of my almost final wii motherboard. I wish my hot glue gun was still broken because it would have been a lot nicer. Bluetooth is finally working, after resoldering it 6 times and then finding out that my usb drive wasn't compatible with PortablizeMii... That means it could have been working the whole time...
    Also, I know I should be using thinner wire for my data lines (like left and right audio) but I have a lot of this ~22awg wire and I like to use it since it just has a single core and it's easy to solder with. Also, I hate magnet wire since I have to scratch off the coating thats around it everytime.
    IMG_5690.JPG
    Also, can a mod move this back to the contest submissions thread? I think there might be a chance that I finish this in time since I litterally have the entire week free to be portablizing.
     
  14. Stitches 2 and a Half Dollarydoos Staff Member . . .

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    I hope that's a damn good fan (even though I can't see any fins under the blades). If it doesn't stay cool enough, that hot glue could melt and the fan could break free.
     
  15. BocuD . .

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    There are some fins on the side of the fan, and i already stress tested it with mariokart wii. It doesnt overheat at all.
     
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  16. Matthew Formally known as Chaos Staff Member . .

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    Done. :) Good luck on this!

    Also for PLA warping, use a gluestick and that should solve your problem. I mean if you have a heated print bed you can increase the temperature but a simple gluestick will work wonders for you. Under and Over extrusion are generally problems in software (It could be hardware depending on how you have the feeder gear set up) and by playing with some settings you could probably reduce them to almost nothing.
     
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  17. GingerOfOz no wario Staff Member . . .

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    Also, with magnet wire, you can generally melt a little solder and put it on the end of the wire you need stripped to strip it. Wire cutters begone!

    Also, keep in mind that while the glue didn't melt while you played, that wasn't exactly the best test, because you were testing in an open air environment. I hope it works out for you though!

    Z button? Also, what are you using the port on the bottom for?

    Casework looks good! Good luck!
     
  18. Aurelio The Fixer ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ Staff Member . . . . . .

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    Also 250 °C is too high for PLA. Higher temperatures increase the possibility of getting a warped part, because the thermal contraction is more intensified.
     
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  19. BocuD . .

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    I’m not using that for pla. When printing with pla i just used 210. Im now printing with colorfabb XT filament which is supposed to be printed at 250 celcius.

    Also, for a z button i’ll be using a tiny button EDIT: next to the r button, but its hole will be drilled in. The airflow in the final case will probably be just fine since the fan takes in air from the bottom and then blows it out the side (using an air duct) into the holes on the bottom. The port on the bottom is for the nintendo swiitch proprietary dock connector
    ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°).
     
  20. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . . .

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    Mmm hdmi eh? Make sure nobody plugs that into their TV :P
     
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