Question Calling all noobs (noob question thread)

[Aurelio]

What is required to do this? I'm guessing stock wii since it's the one device with GC mem card slot and USB built in standard. Would it have to be softmodded to copy saves back and forth from USB?

Gamecube won't let me make copies of my Pokémon Box save and I'm wondering if creating USB backups would be a way around that.

You need either a Gamecube with an SDGecko or a Wii and you'll have to use GCMMto dump your memory card. Then you can use Dolphin's memory card manager to copy your memory card saves to single memory cards raw files for each game, so that Nintendont can use it. I'm thinking about writing a small tool to do everything from the Wii without having to use anything else

 

[Crazzyleprechaun]

Im having this really weird problem where the wii mote lags even the buttons lag behin after I rewired the bluetooth module any suggestions?

 

[Noah]

Im having this really weird problem where the wii mote lags even the buttons lag behin after I rewired the bluetooth module any suggestions?

Sounds like you might be getting some interference. Can you post pictures of your data line wiring?

 

[Stitches]

I installed PortablizeMii, but 4 out of 5 attempts to power the Wii on, I'll get the "no config file found" screen and the only option is to boot to system menu. On the off chance it does boot properly, selecting a game from the emulator section shows a brief loading screen, 5 seconds of black, then straight back to page 1 of the emulator section. Nintendont also says "No FAT device found" if I try to load into it or any GC game from Postloader. Wii games boot no issues, but loading is super super slow.

These are all signs of a slow/incompatible USB, yes?

 

[Aurelio]

I installed PortablizeMii, but 4 out of 5 attempts to power the Wii on, I'll get the "no config file found" screen and the only option is to boot to system menu. On the off chance it does boot properly, selecting a game from the emulator section shows a brief loading screen, 5 seconds of black, then straight back to page 1 of the emulator section. Nintendont also says "No FAT device found" if I try to load into it or any GC game from Postloader. Wii games boot no issues, but loading is super super slow.

These are all signs of a slow/incompatible USB, yes?

Yeah, hse a different usb drive. You could also try to reformat it with 32K cluster size

 

[Stitches]

I've tried every cluster size available, no difference. Is this USB still one of the best recommended ones? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128G...coding=UTF8&ref_=psdcmw_3151491_t2_B012PKV7RC

 

[Redmagnusx]

Hey guys. I was just wondering what the dimensions of the omgwtf wii trim are in mm. I've yet to begin trimming my board, but I would like to start designing my case for it.

 

[Aurelio]

I've tried every cluster size available, no difference. Is this USB still one of the best recommended ones? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128G...coding=UTF8&ref_=psdcmw_3151491_t2_B012PKV7RC

I've never tried it, so I don't know. @Shank did iirc

Hey guys. I was just wondering what the dimensions of the omgwtf wii trim are in mm. I've yet to begin trimming my board, but I would like to start designing my case for it.

I can't take proper measurements right now, but it fits inside a rectangle 75mm x 105mm.

 

[Fiskers1208]

for the PTH08080 regulators, you need 87.2k resistors to output 1v. can you use 87k ohm resistors

 

[Luke]

Yes. By my calculations, an 87k resistor will give you 1.0003V at the output.

For anyone else who might have a similar question, page 7 of the datasheet would be the place to go.

 

[jefflongo]

I'm planning on keeping the video connector wired so that I can plug the OEM composite cable from an external tv to the portable. However, the video/audio signals will be degraded when doing this because video/audio will also be wired to the internal monitor/amp. In addition, audio will likely be playing out of both devices and simply turning the volume down seems lazy. What I would like is to be able to use the external connector OR use the internal devices.

Would the best course of action be to wire composite video/L audio/R audio to a 3PDT switch between the connector and the screen/amp? That way you flip the switch and it only provides video/audio to the connector or the screen/amp. However the screen would still be running which would be a waste of power. I was thinking alternatively to just have a switch which disconnects power, video, and audio to screen/amp. Not sure if it's possible to get a 4PST switch. Would those options still have signal degredation? What's the best approach to this?

 

[Shank]

@jefflongo go with a 4pdt switch, like this one. It'll let you toggle having the AV go out to the output ports or internal ones, and disable the power to the screen all at the same time. It should help keep the signal strong and reduce interference for both modes. I would also recommend shielding both the power and signal lines, since they will be so close to eachother.

Also, some screens have a auto power function where they wont turn on or will auto turn off if there is no signal. If your screen does that, you may be able to get away with a 3pdt and not toggling power with the switch.

 

[jefflongo]

Should simply disconnecting power/gnd to the internal screen not solve the problem?

But will this cause signal degredation if the signals are still connected? I know using a splitter for my wii to a capture card still degrades the signal even if the capture card is turned off if the cable is connected.

Also I would at least need another prong on the switch for power to the amp?

 

[Luke]

I don't know. My hunch tells me that if the power to your capture card is off but it's still grounded then it's possible the signal could still be being half-fed to the capture card and half-fed to the wii. But if you break power and ground to your internal screen, where will the signal current even be able to flow? Probably still worth a try to only put a switch on power and see how it reacts, but I'm fairly certain that a DPST switch for power and ground is max worst case scenario what you need.

 

[jefflongo]

I don't know. My hunch tells me that if the power to your capture card is off but it's still grounded then it's possible the signal could still be being half-fed to the capture card and half-fed to the wii. But if you break power and ground to your internal screen, where will the signal current even be able to flow? Probably still worth a try to only put a switch on power and see how it reacts, but I'm fairly certain that a DPST switch for power and ground is max worst case scenario what you need.

I will try with a DPST switch for both power to the screen and power to the amp and possibly use a 3PST switch if I need to include ground as well. Thanks!

 

[GC64]

A bit of a noob question but can the U5 be removed and replaced with the U10 before the board is trimmed? (So I know if the relocation worked before I trim). I ask because the U5 is an on board regulator component, and these have to be removed to use custom regulators, except I'd still be powering with the on board regulators at that point so idk if removing would make a difference or not.

 

[ShockSlayer]

You can, but you 100% have to cut the trace in the guide, and remove the components to be safe.

 

[Stitches]

Has anyone had any luck using those dual action tact switches from digital camera shutter buttons for the dual tact mod? The kind that behave just like the dual tact mod, but it's one little switch inside.

 

[Aurelio]

Has anyone had any luck using those dual action tact switches from digital camera shutter buttons? The kind that behave just like the dual tact mod, but it's one little switch inside.

They have a common pin, so the two buttons are going to have the same active logic state (while for the dual tact mod you need one active low and the other high). This can be easily fixed with a transistor. I'm planning on doing an update for the GC+ firmware to handle those switches directly though.

 

[Stitches]

They have a common pin, so the two buttons are going to have the same active logic state (while for the dual tact mod you need one active low and the other high). This can be easily fixed with a transistor. I'm planning on doing an update for the GC+ firmware to handle those switches directly though.

That's what I thought. Every datasheet I look at has a damn common. So, short of opening one up and cutting the common line, there's no way to use one for a stock controller. Bugger.