Question Calling all noobs (noob question thread)
- Thread starter Shank
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That'd be battery middle
Question about Bondo: It's just a normal two part epoxy body filler right? I work at a massive hardware store chain and we stock 10 other fillers, but not Bondo. We don't have Krylon either 
Basically. There's Bondo body filler and Bondo Glazing and spot putty. Body filler just gets hard and fills gaps without breaking. The spot putty is for filling hairline cracks or smoothing things over. If you don't stock it, pretty much any place with car repair stuff does. Wal-Mart has it where I live.Question about Bondo: It's just a normal two part epoxy body filler right? I work at a massive hardware store chain and we stock 10 other fillers, but not Bondo. We don't have Krylon either
If you're looking for paint, rustoleum for plastics works pretty well and is what I use to customize things. However, portables should be as durable as they can be, so I'll be using Tamiya spray paint if I can. It's made for model and rc cars so it's about as indestructible as paint can get. They sell Tamiya at hobby stores and rustoleum at Wal-Mart. If you don't have an rc or model store, hobby lobby sells Testors which isn't nearly as good but has some cool colors.
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Wait, do those six circles near the top of the GC+ not do anything? I thought you were supposed to wire those to the Wii like the GameCube plug would. Like you would cut the connector off the top and the holes on the board represented where those wires would would go in a controller.
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No, those are for flashing the firmware on the microcontroller on it
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Random question. On an untrimmed wii, is there a way to bypass the power switch? To make the wii boot up upon receiving power?
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I ordered 4 of the pth08080wah, and I plan on dropping the 5v line completely by using the SD slot, but I was wondering if I can save myself another regulator and use a linear regulator for the 1v line, so i would use 1 pth08080 for the 3.3v, 1 pth08080 for the 1.15v, then can I have a linear regulator go off of the 1.15v to the 1v? Or if not, is there another way I can make this work with 2 pth08080? then I can save the other 2 to make the mini wii the same way
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PortablizeMii requires USB to be fully functional. Thus you need 5v, unless you can find a SD to USB dongle that runs on 3.3v that @Shank was talking about. Also for portable uses, USB is better because there are simply less wires to solder and it takes up less space than SD.
PortablizeMii was designed with USB only in mind. Things like booting wii games require USB, while some other homebrew will allow you to use other drives, regardless of if it's a good idea or not.
We chose this path for PM because it is simpler to wire, allows us to cut further into the board, and it gave us an easier path for choosing homebrew for the modpack.
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I understand, though in the case i will exclusively use nintendont, would dropping the 5v line be safe?
Only USB, the fan and controller rumble run off 5v. So yes, totally safe.
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Hey, would it be okay to use all four of these batteries, one of these protection circuits, and this charger (all from BOM)? I can't tell if any of those is supposed to be for a single cell or not.
All the specs match out, The charger and protection circuits are for 2 cells at a time
So if you were using 4 cells (for example using stock regs @ 14.8v) what configuration would you need?
All you have to do is wire the circuit such that when you want the system to play, one ground from the PCB is connected to the positive of the other PCB. Then apply the free ground to a ground point on your Wii and the free positive to the voltage input on the regulator. When you want to charge, you have to wire it up such that the grounds from both PCBs are connected to the charger and that the voltages from both PCBs are connected to the charger at the same time. (PCB in this case is the Protection Circuit Board)
In order to achieve this, you will need to use some switch magic. I highly recommend drawing out everything before you start soldering ANYTHING. If you connect the circuits above at the same time, your batteries will EXPLODE!!! I myself have not drawn anything out for this because in my upcoming Wii portable, I will be using the PTH regs. But if you really really want me to draw you up something I could. (Just need some coffee first).
In order to achieve this, you will need to use some switch magic. I highly recommend drawing out everything before you start soldering ANYTHING. If you connect the circuits above at the same time, your batteries will EXPLODE!!! I myself have not drawn anything out for this because in my upcoming Wii portable, I will be using the PTH regs. But if you really really want me to draw you up something I could. (Just need some coffee first).
Mumble
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Okay. So I just got my chargers that are compatible with my 18650 cells, but when I charged them overnight, they charged to about 4 to 4.12v.
Now I'm guessing the max voltage on these cells are 4.2v, because when I woke up earlier they were still charging, they were about 2/3 done. (according to the charging icons). Is this normal? Because I bought them as a 14.8v pack, and are apparently a 16.8v pack now. Is this okay?
Now I'm guessing the max voltage on these cells are 4.2v, because when I woke up earlier they were still charging, they were about 2/3 done. (according to the charging icons). Is this normal? Because I bought them as a 14.8v pack, and are apparently a 16.8v pack now. Is this okay?
I don't know what charger / protection circuit you have, but yeah, each 3.7v cell will be around 4.2v around max charge and 3.2v around min charge, so it makes sense that a 14.8v pack at max charge would actually be around 16.8v.
(Always keep this property of lipos/li ions in mind so you don't come to a situation where you think you're not going to give a device too much voltage but you actually might)
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