Some of us have seen his work >.> . If you're looking for a 7 inch screen, it'd be better to shell out a little more for an L7009 like this one. They take component video natively, so you get dank 480p without any extra steps.
*watches video* oh, this guy. While Pi screens aren't bad, getting decent HDMI out of the Wii is much harder. Going for a screen that takes native component video (like what @Stitches recommended) will make it easier in the long run, since you can get the native component output from the Wii rather than trying to fiddle with GCVideo and HDMI.
Thanks for he advice.
Just a little tiny bit, and make sure to only uncover one trace. Also, try and offset where you scrape so that even if your solder balls up a bit, it won't short the two lines together. If the solder is just balling up over the trace, try scraping a bit more to make sure it's fully exposed. I use a box cutter just fine to scrape at the traces on my boards, though a tinier blade would probably be better.
Yep, just make sure to try and remove any solder shorting the bluetooth lines.
Pizza magic.
You're going to want to twist the USB data line wires to prevent interference from affecting the signal. Also, you have quite a bit of exposed wire on your solder joints. Maybe clean that up a bit. Looks like that TP49 IC should probably be removed too, looks damaged.
When I was taking the USB off it was being a pain for a while too. I used a solder pump as well as braid, the pump worked great usually. I would put some fresh solder back onto the joint to mix with the old stuff, making it easier to get out. There were a few pins that were really stuck, for that I took a slightly bigger soldering tip, a flat head one, so it could transfer more heat, then I would wiggle the pins around slightly to make sure they were loose and try to get them to stay in middle of the holes. For a few I had to use my tweezers to push/pull them a little while also applying heat to loosen the remaining solder.
Only if you're Aurelio...
Yes, the smart charger is the only safe way to charge lithium batteries unless you construct your own smart charge and cell balancing circuit. Smart chargers are specifically designed to safely and reliably charge lithium batteries and cut to a trickle when the cells reach maximum safe voltage. DC power supplies are completely different and are designed to constantly output a fixed voltage to a system designed around that fixed input voltage.
22 is good for power. Personally I also carry some 26g wire for power for some smaller components (controller ports, audio amp ect). You're going to want to make sure you get stranded wire as opposed to solid core and it might help to get some different colors as well. In addition, definitely get some magnet wire for data lines. Bluetooth relocation and wiring to vias becomes a breeze. There's a good 34g magnet wire in the BOM.
Yep works great! That’s what I’m using.
