Make sure you use a high temp for the ground through hole, that sucker is always difficult to get out.
Worklog Kristen Wiig
- Thread starter Fruity_Grebbles
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Good luck, that shit takes loads of heat and eats it right up
Regulators are done, and looking good if I do say so myself. Voltages are all very close to the required values.
It works!
Well, it worked last night. I put heat-sinks on it and this morning it seems to be caught in a bootloop of sorts; It's blinking between black and "no signal" on my little screen. Any ideas?
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Did you take the heatsinks off and test? I remember someone (though it was a GCP) had problems with a trimmed console after they put heatsinks on. They found a work around, though I can't temember what it was.
I'd try taking them off just to be sure, as well as running through the standard troubleshooting stuff. Especially check out U10, because if it is a booting issue it could likely originate from there.
I'd try taking them off just to be sure, as well as running through the standard troubleshooting stuff. Especially check out U10, because if it is a booting issue it could likely originate from there.
Sure 'nuff. It was the U10. Back in working order now.
Unfortunately, my trim does not quite fit inside of the footprint of a Wavebird controller. Before I resort to extensive case modification, is there anywhere I can further cut down my mainboard?
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Hmm... You could trim a tiny bit off by the NAND, but not enough to really make it fit. To fit it in would require a LMAO trim at the very least.
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Hm? No. Actually. DeoNaught suggested making a plug-n-play. I'm going that route.
Got my Bluetooth module hooked up. God that was a pain. I wound up scratching off the soldermask with my multimeter probe. But it's on there, and there are no shorts that I could find. Mounted with foam tape.
So, given the size of the OMGWTF trim and my inability to position it inside of a WaveBird controller, I'm going to be designing and 3D printing a derivative, Wavebird-inspired controller. Stay tuned.
Absolutely fantastic (/s) USB wiring, then the video outs for my HDMI converter marked and the connector removed.
Made some progress, sorry I haven't been posting. Classes have started, etc. I'm wondering if there's any good way to shield my video wires as they go from the Wii to my HDMI adapter. It's coming out fuzzier than I would like.
Are you using a Wii2HDMI sort of thing? In that case you can use the coaxial cables used for the WiFi antennas on the Wii
Indeed. I understand with a pure digital system it would be less of an issue. Okay, I've got some coaxial wire from a laptop wifi antenna around somewhere. I'll use that. Thanks!
Mini-update:
I've been bogged down with schoolwork and other projects, but I got the Wii2HDMI hooked up with some shielded wire and the image looks a bit better. USB is now also hooked up, so I've got a complete boot. Also, cooling should be a non-issue and the integrated fan is now wired up.
I was wondering, what are the compatibility limits of USB gamecube adapters (like this one), or USB gamepads in general? I know Nintendon't will work with them, but beyond that I don't have a clue.
I've been bogged down with schoolwork and other projects, but I got the Wii2HDMI hooked up with some shielded wire and the image looks a bit better. USB is now also hooked up, so I've got a complete boot. Also, cooling should be a non-issue and the integrated fan is now wired up.
I was wondering, what are the compatibility limits of USB gamecube adapters (like this one), or USB gamepads in general? I know Nintendon't will work with them, but beyond that I don't have a clue.
Another mini-update: I'm going to try my hand at a LMAO trim and see what happens. Wish me luck, kids.
