Worklog Wii U R&D Thread (WURD)

zal16

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I know the vWii don't works without the disc drive, but about the GC/Wii injects? They works without he (and de_fuse patch)?
It's possible to do a undervolt, specially on more demanding lines like 1v and 1.15v?
What is the power consupmition and current(A) in vWii mode? Is much less than last revison of original Wii hardware?
 

Lazr

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I know the vWii don't works without the disc drive, but about the GC/Wii injects? They works without he (and de_fuse patch)?
A missing disc drive is fine for GC/Wii injections. They don't even know if the disc drive is even missing, as its entirely emulated.
 

YveltalGriffin

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Undervolting doesn't seem possible, at least with wires. Whenever I try to decrease the core rail voltages the system just hangs.

However, after brainstorming with Benge at MGC, I've decided to design a modified 1v/1.15v reg board that will sit on the motherboard next to the SOC and solder directly to the core rail copper. This will eliminate all voltage droop and should improve stability. There's a chance some mild undervolting will be possible with this new reg board.

I haven't measured vWii mode power, simply because it doesn't matter for portablizing until we get vWii disc drive patches. Keep in mind that in vWii mode, the console has a bunch of extra hardware blocks running to upres the video to 1080p and pipe it to the 1080p HDMI transmitter. Plus, all the Wii U hardware that's "turned off" in vWii mode still consumes some static current while idle. So it's virtually impossible for the system to beat an undervolted Hollywood-2 Wii.
 

zal16

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Why not use stock regulators to undervolting? Are they that much worse?
 
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Viilmo

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Why not use stock regulators to underclock? Are they that much worse?
Yes, you would have to trim them out first and they are physically bigger and much more inefficent
 

YveltalGriffin

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Right. They're huge, they need at least 12V, the 1v one is two-phase (meaning it has two giant inductors), and we don't have full documentation for the controller ICs.

The 12v input they require is the main issue. Going from 3.7V→1v is a lot more efficient than 12v→1v. And managing 4S batteries in a portable is trickier, since you need balancing. Custom regs solve all of these problems
 

Viilmo

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Right. They're huge, they need at least 12V, the 1v one is two-phase (meaning it has two giant inductors), and we don't have full documentation for the controller ICs.

The 12v input they require is the main issue. Going from 3.7V→1v is a lot more efficient than 12v→1v. And managing 4S batteries in a portable is trickier, since you need balancing. Custom regs solve all of these problems
They actually need 12V? I thought it was less so I didn't write it down.
12 fucking volts and all because drive go spin
 

zal16

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I have no interest in trimming the board. I think about removing the useless disk drive and filling it with batteries. so I can play on the gamepad and keep the console wherever I am, without depending on wall sockets. It is also in my interest to make it more efficient, so I think I will choose this model that ends at -50, it will also be necessary to replace the regulators, regardless of whether they are spacious or not, just targeting efficiency. Using SD cards/flash drives and SSDs can help with low consumption too.
 
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incredible project I have a Wii U, I want to use it without the disk drive, from what I understand I should use a picodrive plate, is there any guide to teach the process?
 

Lazr

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incredible project I have a Wii U, I want to use it without the disk drive, from what I understand I should use a picodrive plate, is there any guide to teach the process?
You can just set the SEEPROM device to None in minute. Don't need a pico to do that, you can load minute with a browser exploit
 
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You can just set the SEEPROM device to None in minute. Don't need a pico to do that, you can load minute with a browser exploit
my disk drive is defective, error 160-1400, I bought it like this
 

Lazr

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The LOLWUN is real!!

Over the past few weeks I gained an interest in trimming the earlier Wii U board revisions. The WUP-50 will always have the superior trim, but with them being so rare compared to the WUP-01/WUP-30 (and to some extent, the WUP-40), it makes more sense to trim one of the common rev's than to risk breaking a WUP-50. I can't say I'm not a little bit bummed about how much bigger the LOLWUN is to the LOLWUT, but the fact it can be trimmed at all is super exciting!

Let me introduce, my trimmed WUP-40:
top-40.jpg
bottom-40.jpg


It's only slightly bigger than the LOLWUT, with the dimensions being around 123x95mm.
40v50.jpg

That's not too bad with it having a much larger SoC, along with the RAM being further out.
I haven't relocated any of the wireless modules yet, but those can always be done later. They don't halt booting into the Wii U Menu, it just makes doing anything impossible.

I have talked with Yveltal a little about the LOLWUN, it is going to stay an "experimental" trim for a little while. I'm not sure if it will ever be added to the guide.

Here is a video of me restoring a vWii NAND dump on the trim:

Along with this post, I want to share the pinouts I drew up while working on the trim:
(None of these are as fancy as the ones Yveltal made for the trim guide, but this isn't a guide, so its fine, probably)
WiiU_NANDEMMCPICO.png

I drew up this pinout months ago (right after the LOLWUT guide was released). It is meant to match up with the pinouts shown for the NAND/eMMC/WiFi/de_Fuse on the LOLWUT guide. The bare numbers mean the ONFI NAND, e means eMMC, d means DEBUG (for de_Fuse), and w means WiFi. Ignore the "TP2" via. That does not go to TP2, and its not useful in trimming.
smc.png

SMC wiring. I had used the WUP-01 board scans to find the I2C pins, nRST I managed to find by poking TP144 and the SoC pins with a multimeter.
sd.jpg

The nice part about having everything so spread out is that you get to keep some of the SD resistors by the SoC. Since I didnt label them on the picture, I will do so here:
Green - CD Dark blue - DAT1 Lighter Purple - DAT0 Orange - CLK Darker Purple - DAT3 Light Blue - CMD White - WP
The green-ish trace is DAT2, that is the only resistor for the SD card I trimmed off.
sdslot.png

The pinout here is meant to match up with the pins above. I'm sorry I didn't label them properly!
frontpanel.jpg

This is for the front panel, soldering the pins there makes the wiring cleaner IMO.

The SD slot pins and the front panel pins are identical between all revisions.
I hope this post gives someone the inspiration to trim one of these Wii U boards! Yveltal has said in the past that the bistro should be fine enough to power the A5X. For cooling, I would recommend sticking with the stock heatsink since you can actually properly mount it here (if you don't have the WiFi module that is).
bottom_heatsink.jpg


and maybe the stock fan (or whatever fan you want I guess). You want the fan to be blowing air into the heatsink.
 
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zal16

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@YveltalGriffin

I don't want to trim this console. I only want to reduce overall power usage, increasing efficiency.
Can you mark the all stock regulators are should be replaced with custon better ones?
Can you mark too the points to input the custom regulated voltages?

I am very grateful
 

Lazr

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Here with another update! This should make trimming much better for everyone.

rsz_wiibt.jpg

The Wii Bluetooth module works (almost) completely fine on the Wii U!

For those who don't know, every Wii BT module has those testpads you see I soldered the wires to.
This is not the case on the Wii Mini/Wii U (but the focus here is Wii U). You have to get lucky, since not all modules have the testpads (and soldering directly to the B2B footprint is really annoying).

The only problem with the Wii module on Wii U is I guess the firmware on it is returning something the Wii U doesn't expect?
1716356150782.png

The way I got it working was simply to patch out the kernel from panicking:
C:
// Disable panic in kernel
ASM_PATCH_K(0x08129ce0, "bx lr\n");
Once I added this to my patches, it works completely fine! Even the Wii U Pro Controller pairs!
ItWorks!.jpg

It's pretty stable too. I played NSMBWii with a WiiMote and NSMBU with a Pro Controller for quite some time and I experienced no problems.

To try and combat the issue of it crashing, I have dumped the Wii Us BT module firmware, and @VoxelTek dumped the Wii BT firmware, but there is a massive difference between the modules though, so it's not a very easy "flash the Wii U FW to the Wii FW". The sizes are different, the bus the flash uses is different.. I'm surprised this even worked!
Since portables are most likely going to have isfshax anyway, I don't think requiring the kernel panic patch is much of an issue.

Something else I would like to share:
threeofthem.jpg

The top is the Wii module, middle is the Wii U module without the pads, and the bottom is the Wii U module with the pads. Quite interesting how different they are.

Big thanks to @LambBrainz for sending me some Wii modules for testing!
 
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