Worklog Link270's Whiip! (Tentative title)

[link270]

Probably USB.

I rewired my USB really well as I thought that may be the issue as well and tried a totally different drive with a fresh format and portabilizemii files but I’m still coming up to the same issue. It appears to work fine when in the normal wii menu but not portabilizemii, so it’s make sense that it’d be usb but it doesn’t seem to have helped.

The next thing I want to try is redoing my regulators a little bit. I noticed the battery started getting a little low and my 1.15V was hovering around 1.04, and my 1V seemed low as well. so I’m going to try to raise them a little. Would that have caused a freezing like this? I would assume the Wii wouldn’t even boot with low voltages?

 

[cheese]

Yeah, low voltages will definitely cause problems... What are the voltages of the 1v and 1.15v lines with a charged battery?

 

[link270]

Yeah, low voltages will definitely cause problems... What are the voltages of the 1v and 1.15v lines with a charged battery?

When the battery was full (showing like 8.4V or so on the battery output) I was seeing a solid 5V and 3.3V. 1.15V was around 1.10 and 1V was about .94.

 

[cheese]

Yeah, go ahead and bring the 1v and 1.15v up a bit, a bit over 1v and 1.15v should be good at full so when the battery is low it doesn't droop too low.

 

[Aurelio]

Have you twisted your usb data lines?

 

[link270]

Have you twisted your usb data lines?

Yeah they are twisted together. Yesterday I even swapped them out for fresh wires.

Edit: Recharged the battery and double checked the voltages. I’m getting 5V 3.36V 1.15/1.14V and .98V and he problem is still happening. I’ll check a few more things when I get home later.

 

[Shank]

Those voltages are pretty solid. Are you measuring the voltages on the board or on the regulator itself? Sometimes voltage can drop off over a wire.

 

[link270]

Those voltages are pretty solid. Are you measuring the voltages on the board or on the regulator itself? Sometimes voltage can drop off over a wire.

That was off the regs. I got home and mesured from the board and the lower two are about 1.05V and .90V

 

[Shank]

That was off the regs. I got home and mesured from the board and the lower two are about 1.05V and .90V

That may be your problem. Your wires may be too thin.

 

[link270]

That may be your problem. Your wires may be too thin.

I’m running a 22 gauge for the resistors to the board and one for ground. On the resistors themselves I’ve got a few 28 gauge wires connecting some grounds, but that shouldn’t be an issue should it? Would adding a second ground wire possibly clear anything up? Also if I do need thicker wires, could I just double up two wires on the lower voltages until I get some?

Edit: to answer my own questions yes that seems to have worked! I added a second ground wire and shortened the wire on my 1.15V now I’m sitting at 1.9/1.10V and 0.94/0.95V from the board. It didn’t freeze up or anything! Will those voltages hold? I’ll still probably grab some thicker wire.

 

[GingerOfOz]

If you mean while the board is running, then yeah, that's fine. Those are probably still OK even without a motherboard attatched. Ground wires should always be the same thickness, if not thicker than your power wires.

 

[Stitches]

You can never have too much ground.

 

[fibbef]

You can never have too much ground.

 

[link270]

Mini update, I just wanted to show off my wii (mostly) all wired together and working. I’m still waiting on my GC+ to arrive so I’ve been using a wiimote + classic control to test for now. I also got a larger usb stick since this and loaded it will full NES, SNES, and N64 Romsets:p plus a few wii and a bunch of GC games. Quick question while I’m here, does portabilizemii use wii64 or not64 as its main N64 emulator?

Here’s a little video of it working:


Obviously the speakers won’t be in that little plastic thing and everything will be more compacted once I get the case designed and printed, and I’ll likrly be rewriting everything again to improve cleanliness and allow it to fit.

 

[link270]

Quick update. I’ve been working on my case design. I haven’t ventured into CAD since high school so I’m basically learning from nothing. Here’s where I’m at so far.

 

[DeoNaught]

Quick update. I’ve been working on my case design. I haven’t ventured into CAD since high school so I’m basically learning from nothing. Here’s where I’m at so far.

View attachment 3918

Thats pretty neat Imo

 

[MasterNate]

I like the Triforce shaped speaker holes!!! I can't wait to see how this case finally turns out.

 

[GingerOfOz]

Just as a warning, 3D printers often don't do well with tiny holes like that. I had some upside down L speaker holes, but even with a 35,000 dollar printer my holes didn't turn out, and your holes look even smaller. So you will probably have to rethink the design of those unfortunately.

Other than that your case is looking good! Someone may have tips on tiny holes, but I Hope you can find a way to pull that off because it looks really nice.

 

[link270]

Just as a warning, 3D printers often don't do well with tiny holes like that. I had some upside down L speaker holes, but even with a 35,000 dollar printer my holes didn't turn out, and your holes look even smaller. So you will probably have to rethink the design of those unfortunately.

Other than that your case is looking good! Someone may have tips on tiny holes, but I Hope you can find a way to pull that off because it looks really nice.

Good point I remember reading about that in your work log. I’m not extremely experienced with 3D printing and their capabilities. I’ll be going through my university to print them most likely, and I know they’ve got some pretty solid printers, so I appreciate the advice.

Is there a more recommended size for speaker holes like that? I might change them to longer lines rather than holes, or just do a bigger opening with a speaker grill of some sort to keep the look nice.

 

[mahjarratian]

If you have an FDM based printer, and a .25mm nozzle with a slow first layer, you can easily get ~1mm diameter holes.

(these are squares, but circles would be just as feasible.)