Yes you need to connect both for full functionality, and fortunately you can daisy chain the I2C wires. What we recommend is to wire SCW/SDW from the Wii to the PMS, then run another pair of wires from the PMS SCW/SDW pads to the RVL-AMP/U-AMP. This will allow both boards their full functionalityOn this project, since you wire SCW and SDW from the PMS to the board with the RVL-AMP which then is wired to the wii, do you still also need to wire SCW and SDW directly from the PMS to the the wii?
Yeah this is normal. Basically all lines in an electrical circuit have a resistive connection to ground, including the primary voltages. It's a necessary part of electrical circuits to filter out noise and decouple the line. As long as the resistance is at least double digits, it's good. A single digit resistance indicates a short, which is bad.So I was testing the GC + 2.0 and connecting boards for shorts and found a connection between 3.3v and ground. However it had a very high resistance (1.7k) so I wanted to know if this was intended before I started re-soldering things.
No you still need to short Mode to 3.3v to get VGA out. The VGA patch only changes the HD output mode from yPbPr to VGA, you still need to use the Mode line to tell the Wii whether to output in SD or HDAm I correct in assuming that due to the software of rvloader forcing the wii to use vga, it is no longer necessary to wire 3.3v to mode on the wii?
Is your multimeter showing a 0ohm or a 1ohm reading, or it it just beeping at you? Multimeters tend to beep at anything below 50ohms, which is a normal resistance range between some linesSo i was trying to solder the h and v sync pins but accidentally bridged a bunch of the pins. I've cleaned it up now but they still read on my multi-meter as shorted to each other. However, I noticed while testing other pins that I hadn't messed up around the same chip that I got the same readings. So I'm wondering which pins on that chip should have no resistance between each other and which ones I should worry about.
It's showing a 0ohm rating, my multimeter does not have a speaker built into it.Is your multimeter showing a 0ohm or a 1ohm reading, or it it just beeping at you? Multimeters tend to beep at anything below 50ohms, which is a normal resistance range between some lines
That's normal, the PMS ships with the power on/off mode configured for a momentary button. For the Ashida's switch to work correctly you have to go into the RVLoader settings for the PMS and change the momentary button mode to latching switch mode.I also have it doing weird things with the power. It turns on when I flip the switch to the on position, but stays on when I flip it back to off, it then turns off when I flip it back to on and stays off when I switch it to off from there. Only then if I flip it on it will turn on. I essentially have to flip the switch twice to get it to change from off to on.