Ashida Wii Portable

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That doesn't look promising. Probably the only way to know for sure is to wire them up to something to test. Maybe sacrifice a cheap pair of wired headphones?
 

Skibub28

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So I got a new PMS-lite to replace the one I damaged and wired it up. When I turn the device on the fan does not turn on, is this supposed to happen? Also a few minutes to seconds after I turn it on it suddenly cuts off. Could this be caused due to poorly twisted usb lines?
 

Skibub28

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Found the problem with it randomly shutting off, the batteries were low, lol. Still not sure about the fan though. It like clicks 2 times whenever I turn it on and then nothing. Is the fan only supposed to turn on when the wii gets hot?
 
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I had a bunch of weirdness until I let the batteries charge the first time for a full day. I just let it charge for 24 hours without touching it. That took care of a bunch of issues including the fan cutting out.
 

Skibub28

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What voltage and amperage/charger would you recommending using for charging this. Currently I'm using a raspberry pi power supply (5.1v, 3 amps).
 

Stitches

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What voltage and amperage/charger would you recommending using for charging this. Currently I'm using a raspberry pi power supply (5.1v, 3 amps).
I recommend the Anker Nano II 65w if you can afford it. Otherwise, it's as Wesk said. However, I would recommend going for a 45w or better charger so you can crank the PMS charge current a bit and have better charge-and-play.
 

Skibub28

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If I have a 3amp charger does that mean that in settings I need to change the charging current to 3008 ma?
 

Skibub28

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So It only has about 1 to 1.5 hours of battery life when fully charged and it drains faster then the charger can charge it even though I've set the charging current to 3008ma. I've heard that once you get the the batteries to 100% charge the first time the battery life may increase however do to using the pms lite it never gets fully charged. When plugged in it will think it's more charged than it really is and stop charging when in reality the battery's only at 85%. Any clues on how to get to fully charge or any other problems that could be causing the low battery life? Even though the pms lit is only rated for 3amps I've seen someone on the forum mention that they set the charging amperage to the max allowed by rvloader. What are the chances I end up frying something if I try this on my pms lite?
 
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I can't wait for someone to come out with the Ashida XL and it's just wider to house more batteries lmfao
 
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Do I have to buy everything in the link, and do I have to buy anything else?
 
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I'm sorry for asking so many questions, but can i use the power button from the OEM Wii motherboard to power the PMS2
 

Stitches

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I'm sorry for asking so many questions, but can i use the power button from the OEM Wii motherboard to power the PMS2
Yeah you can reuse the Wii's power button if you want to. You can use any momentary switch/button for it
 
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It's been a long wait, that wait is now over...

Get comfortable, make sure headphones are placed firmly on your head and prepare for a little introductory video to a portable that previously only existed in memes and dreams:


(4k and fullscreen recommended)




I could take full credit but in reality the Ashida was a community effort, either directly or indirectly.
It would not have been possible without the great minds we have giving back to the portablizing community.

Features:

  • OMGWTF (Basic) trim for easy trimming.
  • 5 inch 16:9 display with support for a stock VGA controller or @Aurelio's Direct Drive boards.
  • Everything you'd expect from a stock GameCube controller.
  • Dual 35x35x10mm heat sinks (or a single 35x70x10mm) and axial fan, providing enhanced cooling while being whisper quiet.
  • Dual Z buttons to take advantage of additional GC2Wiimote features.
  • Dual 21700 Batteries, giving up to 3.5 hours of potential play time (10,000mah)
  • Custom Controller and Audio interface boards, designed and supplied by 4 Layer Technologies.

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All the required boards can be purchased from 4 Layer Technologies: https://4layertech.com/collections/all
Further assembly documentation and instructions can also be found at: https://4layertech.com/products/ashida-pcb-set


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It was intended for everyone building an Ashida to use IPS panels along with Aurelio's Direct Drive board, unfortunately due to the current global chip shortage that just isn't possible for the launch. A fallback solution screen and driver board has been provided in the BOM in the meantime. I highly suggest that when the option becomes available to upgrade to Direct Drive for optimal picture clarity and additional features.

BOM (supplied by 4LayerTech): Ashida BOM

Buttons, membranes and other controller parts can be salvaged from any GC controller, official or 3rd party (as long as they look original).

Included in the 3D print downloads are the base, full resolution files. These models are large and will take low spec PC's a long time to slice.

I've also included re-meshed, optimized quality files. These are much easier on PC's and are optimized enough to be uploaded to 3D printing services like PCBWay. Although they are lower quality, once printed and actually in your hands you'd be hard-pressed noticing the difference between the optimized res and full resolution files.

3MF's have also been included for optimal print settings if printing with an FDM printer.
Total filament usage is around half a kilo and about 40 hours of print time.

Optimized files can be downloaded here: Ashida Optimized Files

Full resolution files can be downloaded here: Ashida Full Resolution Files

Mounts, buttons, etc can be downloaded here: Ashida Misc Part Files

BOM: Ashida BOM



View attachment 18921

Build Guide by Dubesinhower:

So glad you added the Dubesinhower guide. Definitely the best most comprehensive guide yet, a big step in making the Ashida even more accessible.
 

SartoZ

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Is possible to have the 3d files of the ashida complete with buttons? I need them for some renderings to choose the color combination
 
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