THATS WHY YOU DONT MAKE FUN OF ME BISH
Worklog The AtarWii Liinx
- Thread starter Stitches
- Start date
Pacal
.
There will be a solution for that soon™, so keep the case around.
Alright bois I got some progress to update!
I FINALLY have everything I need, and I do mean EVERYTHING this time. I had a go at wiring up the pluto2 and failed miserably, but then Shank gave me one simple tip.....
AND THE DREAMS ARE BECOME MEMES! It works, but one light flashes during operation and it's not supposed to do that. I think it might be letting me know that I forgot to connect the controller data line for the OSD.
Just HDMI and power. The way it should be.
Now I have to somehow desolder the HDMI port without destroying the pluto....... send me your energy.
I FINALLY have everything I need, and I do mean EVERYTHING this time. I had a go at wiring up the pluto2 and failed miserably, but then Shank gave me one simple tip.....
AND THE DREAMS ARE BECOME MEMES! It works, but one light flashes during operation and it's not supposed to do that. I think it might be letting me know that I forgot to connect the controller data line for the OSD.
Just HDMI and power. The way it should be.
Now I have to somehow desolder the HDMI port without destroying the pluto....... send me your energy.
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HAWT
TAKE MY ENERGY
TAKE MY ENERGY
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You could get one of those slim HDMI cables, where it is just a ribbon cable and the hdmi connector?
I was about to make a sarcastic reply, but I had a google and I'm now ashamed that I didn't know you could just buy HDMI to FFC adapters. Thanks Deo, I'll definitely get me a few of those.
Double postburger with fries and a small coke. Sanding is such a pain! I spent a good 6 hours sanding this and it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would.
I quickly sprayed a shitty coat of white on it to make the spots that need filling a bit more obvious. I noticed afterward that I sanded the top right corner of the screen down to a hair. That little hole with a line next to it is thinner than a skin flake. I'm going to have to put a bit of plastic underneath to support it, otherwise it'll become a big hole if I brush against it the wrong way. I also sanded the X button a bit too much and the inner shape guide broke off, but I think I can fix that with a bit of putty and gladwrap. If I can't, I still have another old controller shell to chop.
I also sanded down a lot of the Lynx's unnecessary detailing. Things like the raised ridges on the battery vent, ports, the underside grip channels, and anything else that took away from a flat and uniform smooth appearance.
I quickly sprayed a shitty coat of white on it to make the spots that need filling a bit more obvious. I noticed afterward that I sanded the top right corner of the screen down to a hair. That little hole with a line next to it is thinner than a skin flake. I'm going to have to put a bit of plastic underneath to support it, otherwise it'll become a big hole if I brush against it the wrong way. I also sanded the X button a bit too much and the inner shape guide broke off, but I think I can fix that with a bit of putty and gladwrap. If I can't, I still have another old controller shell to chop.
I also sanded down a lot of the Lynx's unnecessary detailing. Things like the raised ridges on the battery vent, ports, the underside grip channels, and anything else that took away from a flat and uniform smooth appearance.
Triple stacked McPost with ribs.
Who would win:
A professionally designed case by a major game company
Or one stubby boy
(the answer is the stubby boy)
In case you didn't hear on Discord, I fucked up badly painting the Lynx. Wayyyyyyyyyy too thick. So I scraped the paint off, sanded it again and low and befuckinghold some bits of plastic were sanded down to an asshair's breadth and flimsy as phuhgrk. So I've put the Lynx away for now until I can either fibreglass the thing back to strength, or find another use for it. Dis an ASCWii Mini thread now bois. Funnily enough it's actually only a few cm larger than the Lynx, so it's not even that much less portable. Just waiting on my acetone to arrive to I can fuse this together right the first time.
Who would win:
A professionally designed case by a major game company
Or one stubby boy
(the answer is the stubby boy)
In case you didn't hear on Discord, I fucked up badly painting the Lynx. Wayyyyyyyyyy too thick. So I scraped the paint off, sanded it again and low and befuckinghold some bits of plastic were sanded down to an asshair's breadth and flimsy as phuhgrk. So I've put the Lynx away for now until I can either fibreglass the thing back to strength, or find another use for it. Dis an ASCWii Mini thread now bois. Funnily enough it's actually only a few cm larger than the Lynx, so it's not even that much less portable. Just waiting on my acetone to arrive to I can fuse this together right the first time.
Mate, been there quite a few times too.
Frankencasing can be frustrating but that why it's so much more rewarding at the end
If you are going to use ABS cement a good options is getting those ABS rod at bunnings.
After experimenting with different ABS source those make a silky smooth ABS cement.
Chop them in a glass jar and pour the acetone and you got some home made cement after a few hours.
Just don’t apply this on large surface, only use it to join parts/fill gaps otherwise your case can twist and wearing a mask to avoid breath the fume is better.
You can just keep it in the jar and when it dries just had some more acetone.
I’m usually using this along with some masking tape to frankencase parts.
I do a first layer then after it dries overnight I do a second layer on the other side to reinforce the structure.
You can then sand it if needed to even out the surface.
I then just go with a Tamiya putty basic type as a filler, I used to go with a product called plastibond
(similar to Bondo in the US) from bunnings but always end up getting some tiny holes and small cracks with it.
That Tamiya putty dry within a few hours, is easy to sand and create an even surface.
You can get that in any hobby shop.
And lastly quality paint make a big difference, I try a few of those car paint from bunnings and got some pretty mixed result from them.
I still have nightmares from having to sand down a glossy car spray paint that made some big splatter and end up creating big cracks. Took me literally days to fix it.
I just go with the Tamiya spray paint now and got good result from it. You can get them in hobby shops too.
Frankencasing can be frustrating but that why it's so much more rewarding at the end
If you are going to use ABS cement a good options is getting those ABS rod at bunnings.
After experimenting with different ABS source those make a silky smooth ABS cement.
Chop them in a glass jar and pour the acetone and you got some home made cement after a few hours.
Just don’t apply this on large surface, only use it to join parts/fill gaps otherwise your case can twist and wearing a mask to avoid breath the fume is better.
You can just keep it in the jar and when it dries just had some more acetone.
I’m usually using this along with some masking tape to frankencase parts.
I do a first layer then after it dries overnight I do a second layer on the other side to reinforce the structure.
You can then sand it if needed to even out the surface.
I then just go with a Tamiya putty basic type as a filler, I used to go with a product called plastibond
(similar to Bondo in the US) from bunnings but always end up getting some tiny holes and small cracks with it.
That Tamiya putty dry within a few hours, is easy to sand and create an even surface.
You can get that in any hobby shop.
And lastly quality paint make a big difference, I try a few of those car paint from bunnings and got some pretty mixed result from them.
I still have nightmares from having to sand down a glossy car spray paint that made some big splatter and end up creating big cracks. Took me literally days to fix it.
I just go with the Tamiya spray paint now and got good result from it. You can get them in hobby shops too.
Last edited:
If my controller off-cuts don't make a good mix, I'll definitely pop down to Bunnings and grab a pack of those rods. I'll have a look at that putty too. Atm all I have to work with is Selley's general purpose putty, and two part builder's bog.Mate, been there quite a few times too.
Frankencasing can be frustrating but that why it's so much more rewarding at the end
If you are going to use ABS cement a good options is getting those ABS rod at bunnings.
After experimenting with different ABS source those make a silky smooth ABS cement.
Chop them in a glass jar and pour the acetone and you got some home made cement after a few hours.
Just don’t apply this on large surface, only use it to join parts/fill gaps otherwise your case can twist.
I’m usually using this along with some masking tape to frankencase parts.
I do a first layer then after it dries overnight I do a second layer on the other side to reinforce the structure. You can then sand it if needed to even out the surface.
I then just got with a Tamiya putty basic type as a filler, I used to go with a product called plastibond
(similar to Bondo in the US) from bunnings but always end up getting some tiny holes and small cracks with it.
That Tamiya putty dry within a few hours, is easy to sand and create an even surface.
You can get that in any hobby shop.
And lastly quality paint make a big difference, I try a few of those car paint from bunnings and got some pretty mixed result from them. I still have nightmares from having to sand down a glossy car spray paint that made some big splatter and endup creating big cracks. Took me literally days to fix it.
I just go with the Tamiya spray paint now and got good result from it. You can get them in hobby shops too.
Cost mainly, but I'll see about fixing it up later for the PowerMii's maiden voyage. Atm I just want to complete a damn portable for the first time in a year and clean up my desk.
ＩＴ’Ｓ ＨＡＰＰＥＮＩＮＧ ＢＯＩＳ！
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With your Caps, I've seen people put two caps, or one.
Does using an extra(For power going into the Ti regs I assume) just protect the PTH's.
like, I guess I am asking, if you can do this, should you?(would you recommend for a Beginner )
my Caps are coming in, and I'll have extra, so I can put two, instead of one.
Does using an extra(For power going into the Ti regs I assume) just protect the PTH's.
like, I guess I am asking, if you can do this, should you?(would you recommend for a Beginner )
my Caps are coming in, and I'll have extra, so I can put two, instead of one.
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Yeah, they make it cleaner on the output, I know that, but what about the second Cap.
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What's this I hear?
It sounds like shrieking.
But from whom?
I must investigate.
Oh the wretched sound!
Emanating from a small box -
A box of mistakes and sorrow
'Tis the Ziploc of broken electronics
Of dead hopes
Of failed dreams
But something is louder
Far far louder than the other boards
A small, black square
A perfect square
A perfect board
Or so it was
'Twould be
A GC+
Perfect no longer
For reasons unknown
But why does it cry?
What makes it moan?
Out from the bag
I carefully withdraw it
And suddenly it says
"YOU'RE SUCH AN IDIOT"
I jump with suprise
This dead board can speak?
"THAT'S RIGHT" the board says,
"DO YOU KNOW YOUR MISTAKE?"
"OUTPUT CAPS"
"OUTPUT CAPS"
"OUTPUT CAPS"
"OUTPUT CAPS"
"YOU LEFT THE REG WITHOUT THEM,
NOW YOU'RE LEFT WITHOUT ME"
"No!" I cry
"This can't be right?"
"The guide just said recommended,"
"Is there another reason that you be dead?"
"NOPE" said the board
"LET'S LOOK AT THE EVIDENCE"
"WHAT ELSE HAS DIED"
"(other than you inside)"
I thought for a moment,
What could be dead?
But then it hit me
And I said with dread:
"The IR LEDs..."
"....On 3.3...."
"....Just like ye"
And the board was silent
No more did it whisper,
No more did it speak,
No more did it yell,
No more did it shriek,
And now, in the silence
I knew my mistake
It all come down
To a voltage spike
Oh, the Wii could take it just fine
Without a whimper or whine
But the LEDs? The GC+?
Those were delicate.
A volatile PTH
And a few saved cents
Result in dead boards
And lots of regret
I'm getting this written in calligraphy on a scroll of parchment and hanging it in my room.
The first cap helps to clean the input signal, the second cap helps to clean the output signal. Both are recommended but technically only the first is required.
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Thank you for giving me a straight answer
