Worklog Wii U R&D Thread

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Nothing too major to report. I've been busy with some other projects, but Wii U is still on my to-do list. Here's a quick update.

I succeeded in rewiring the disc drive daughterboard to the AC coupling capacitors on the SATA lines. The 10nF series capacitors are required as part of the SATA spec and the daughterboard does not work if they are bypassed. When trimming, we'll need to trace-scratch and relocate these capacitors further toward the Latte.

IMG_20211030_172325.jpg


The only disc drive daughterboard connections that are required for boot are power and the two SATA differential pairs (not sure if any other signals are needed when loading backups.) The daughterboard does not require 12V to operate, only 3.3V and 5V, and there are convenient solder pads present for both SATA and the power rails. Thanks, Nintendo!

SATA_PINOUT.png
dd_pinout.png


The ICs for my custom regulator board won't be back in stock for a year or more, so in the meantime I put together a shopping list of suitable openframe DCDC modules (like PTH08080s on steroids). These high current ones require remote sense, but I'm thinking if I wire a twisted pair to the mobo it should work ok.

1V: PTH08T210WAH, 30A output
1.15V: PTH08T240WAH, 10A output
1.5V, 2.65V, 3.3V, and 5V: just regular PTH08080s, 2.25A output

Finally, here's a list of what I'm planning on doing next (eventually):
  • Sand to the final remaining signal layer (layer 3) which should contain the SMC routing
  • Trace out SMC connections, figure out if SMC monitors or enables onboard regulators and if that can be spoofed/bypassed/ignored
  • Try to relocate SMC and RTC
  • Try to relocate BT, red/grey WiFi module, and NANDs
  • Try to relocate black/white gamepad wireless module
 
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Nothing too major to report. I've been busy with some other projects, but Wii U is still on my to-do list. Here's a quick update.

I succeeded in rewiring the disc drive daughterboard to the AC coupling capacitors on the SATA lines. The 10nF series capacitors are required as part of the SATA spec and the daughterboard does not work if they are bypassed. When trimming, we'll need to trace-scratch and relocate these capacitors further toward the Latte.

View attachment 21073

The only disc drive daughterboard connections that are required for boot are power and the two SATA differential pairs (not sure if any other signals are needed when loading backups.) The daughterboard does not require 12V to operate, only 3.3V and 5V, and there are convenient solder pads present for both SATA and the power rails. Thanks, Nintendo!

View attachment 21074View attachment 21075

The ICs for my custom regulator board won't be back in stock for a year or more, so in the meantime I put together a shopping list of suitable openframe DCDC modules (like PTH08080s on steroids). These high current ones require remote sense, but I'm thinking if I wire a twisted pair to the mobo it should work ok.

1V: PTH08T210WAH, 30A output
1.15V: PTH08T240WAH, 10A output
1.5V, 2.65V, 3.3V, and 5V: just regular PTH08080s, 2.25A output

Finally, here's a list of what I'm planning on doing next (eventually):
  • Sand to the final remaining signal layer (layer 3) which should contain the SMC routing
  • Trace out SMC connections, figure out if SMC monitors or enables onboard regulators and if that can be spoofed/bypassed/ignored
  • Try to relocate SMC and RTC
  • Try to relocate BT, red/grey WiFi module, and NANDs
  • Try to relocate black/white gamepad wireless module
Exited to see where this goes. Portablizing a wii u would pretty much be the best thing in terms of playing almost all nintendo games.
 
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Portablizing a wii u would pretty much be the best thing in terms of playing almost all nintendo games.
Imagine it, all the best Nintendo Games on the go. Going straight from Mario Tennis Ultra Smash to Amiibo Festival
 
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My 01 says 101 (2) as well. I'm assuming that has to do with being the 32gb deluxe model
I know this is a bit old but my Wii U is an 01 and says 101 (3) its also a 32gb deluxe model
 
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Hi,

Quick question. I've got a Wii U which works absolutely fine apart from the top USB port (USB Port 0) Now doesn't work at all. Port 1 works fine but I need Port 0 working to run games off my hard drive which i've previously done.

Any idea on what could be up? Is it just the socket, or is it one of the controller chips. If so what chips control the USB port?
 
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