Worklog PS2p: 3 years Hiatus... Comeback!

[darkwing]

As I mentioned before I will sill stick with the splitter for now, I'm testing other stuff and waiting to receive a NTSC PS2.
Was feed up of the shakiness of the PAL ps2 on the display.

It look pretty straight forward if you want to do this instead of using a splitter board.
You just need the right tools aka a magnifier, fine soldering tip and some flux to make it easier to stick to those points.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

I think you could follow those vias back to the CXM4 chip and the legs will be easier to solder to and safer too.

 

[Gman]

I think you could follow those vias back to the CXM4 chip and the legs will be easier to solder to and safer too.

Oh no I think that would be much harder. The vias are more isolated from other components so there is less risk in shorting anything out.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

Yeah, that makes sense.. You're definitely right. I was talking more about the likelihood of people using 34awg wire / 28 and the legs might be easier to reach with thicker cable/bigger soldering tips.

 

[cfc_12]

I got the PS3/Wii VGA cable today and tore it apart to get the LMH1251

So from the PS2 motherboard, I connect the

PS2: S-Video Y ---> LMH1251: Y

PS2: RGB ---> Screen: RGB

LMH1251: H & V ---> Screen: H & V

PS2: Video Ground ---> Screen: Ground

It doesn't work for me which means no output

Does it mean I have to buy the 5" Dalian Screen?

Or can you suggest any alternative ways to make the VGA appear cause ya know, it kinda sucks that I have to sell the screen if this screen that I bought isn't compatible for the LMH1251.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

It's not a scan doubler, the vertical sync is still 15khz which most screens- if not all by now, don't support. Those Dalian screens are the only ones currently known to take 15khz and they don't sell them anymore and after an email conversation with some of their technical folks they don't have any capable of it either.

Your best bet; without making your own scan doubler, is to use component out on the PS2 and the L7009 7" screen which takes component in. http://www.volumerate.com/product/l...monitor-w-vga-bnc-av-input-stand-black-335866

It has a TTL connector so you might be able to connect an existing 5" screen to it, I'm pretty sure the MStar processor it has automatically scales but I could be wrong.

 

[Stitches]

I got the PS3/Wii VGA cable today and tore it apart to get the LMH1251

So from the PS2 motherboard, I connect the

PS2: S-Video Y ---> LMH1251: Y

PS2: RGB ---> Screen: RGB

LMH1251: H & V ---> Screen: H & V

PS2: Video Ground ---> Screen: Ground

View attachment 4564

It doesn't work for me which means no output

Does it mean I have to buy the 5" Dalian Screen?

Or can you suggest any alternative ways to make the VGA appear cause ya know, it kinda sucks that I have to sell the screen if this screen that I bought isn't compatible for the LMH1251.

Yeah, that chip just converts the sync info to H V. You still need a 15KHz compatible screen to use it with 480i/576i video. It's written in just about every thread on the subject on MR and here.

 

[darkwing]

I think, first of all, double check your wiring.

You should be using 6 points from the PS2 A/V output.
Pin 5 or 6, 8,9,10,11,12 based on this table

R, G, B (pin 9,11,12) wired directly from the PS2 to the VGA input of your LCD.

Then for the LMH1251 board, you need to have 3 wires on the input and 3 wires on the output
Input:
- 5V (pin 10) to the V point
- Composite (pin5) or Luma(pin6) to Y point
- Video ground (pin8) to G point

Output:
- H to Hsync
- V to Vsync
- G to VGA ground

Last thing is to make sure you have RGB setup on your PS2

This is an example, you don't need the resistor btw

If all this doesn't work then it could be due to your screen not take the 15KHz signal and in that case a dalian screen 5" or 5.6" should work.
I got a new 5.6" a couple weeks ago and it's working fine with the PS2 input. 15KHz is not officially support by Dalian but for some reason those 2 model seem to be working which is great for us

 

[Stitches]

@darkwing are you sure those two screens will be the same?

Their drive board seems kinda bit different from each other

There's actually a difference in the position of the ffc cable.

The 5" is in the middle while the 5.6" is on the right

The difference is because they are different screens and boards, but yes they both should work. (bit of a waste of money though imo)

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

You could easily bypass one of the regulators to put 3-ish volts in or 5v. Post a picture of the board and we can have a look. (the picture Darkwing added isn't visible)

 

[darkwing]

good guide as ever! with explanation & pics

--Merge Posts--

@darkwing are you sure those two screens will be the same?
Their drive board seems kinda bit different from each other
There's actually a difference in the position of the ffc cable.
The 5" is in the middle while the 5.6" is on the right

Yes, as Stitches mention those are different screen/board but they have been proven to be working with PS2 signal. They can be a bit pricey, especially when you add up shipping, but they are hands down the best image quality you can get out the PS2, even the HDMI 5.6” LCD that I was playing with was not as good as those. Something to emphasise is that they don’t play well with PAL 50Hz, so using a NTSC PS2 or playing games at 60Hz is better option with those screens.

 

[cfc_12]

Need your help.

I'm using the rubber tact switch.

Idk why can't I press the

← , ↑ , △ , ☐

 

[Gman]

I recall having this same issue when I wired up that controller. I can't remember how I fixed it exactly, I think it had to do with wiring each button separately (don't bridge the common connection on each tact switch, use a wire for each). Start there and see what happens.

 

[MRKane]

Are you taking the common from one of the button lines? I've hit this with the N64. Doing this means that it'll only work if the other line is open/closed depending on the wiring. That controller in particular is one that I had so many nightmares with I ordered the mini board from RDC.

Going back to the N64 the buttons should work on a shared common as long as it's not taken from one of the button lines. The controller generally uses VCC (I think) so wiring as such might resolve the issue there. It is as frustrating as all hell trying to trouble-shoot this sort of thing, and those knockoff controllers are pretty flaky too.

 

[Gman]

It doesn't work

Keep on trying, there is a way!

 

[Gman]

Wire up the analog sticks and post pictures of your wiring

 

[GingerOfOz]

how is the analog related to the rest of the controller even if I haven't wired it yet?

Shouldn't the d pad be working even without the analog sticks?

I don't know for sure about your controller, but I know that with my Wii portable if there aren't sticks hooked up, then the sticks will move in a random direction. So it is very possible that the issue is not having your sticks wired up.

 

[Notjohnny]

how is the analog related to the rest of the controller even if I haven't wired it yet?

Shouldn't the d pad be working even without the analog sticks?

centered sticks have a value that is about 50% of the range, so if they aren't hooked up the controller will probably read something like it is all the way down or so, wire them up and post what happens

 

[Gman]

It would seem you are doing something very wrong.. nothing comes to mind except for improper wiring. The red wire that is on fire is the power wire which makes sense. The wires have too much copper exposed and the soldering could be cleaner. Keep on trying, trouble-shooting is a good skill to learn.

 

[Gman]

I am working on the same controller just now and it had the same symptoms. I am fairly certain one of your problems is your analog sticks are not wired correctly. You see, the right analog stick also functions as the action buttons on the ps2 home menu.