Question Calling all noobs (noob question thread)

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@Madmorda AFAIK, Wii remotes can't be synced in Homebrew. Try going to the Wii home screen or loading up a Wii game and see if it works then.
 
Chaos said:
Have you tried booting into Priiloader and trying to sync from there?
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Shank said:
@Madmorda AFAIK, Wii remotes can't be synced in Homebrew. Try going to the Wii home screen or loading up a Wii game and see if it works then.
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Lmao I've been sitting here for like an hour and a half refusing to post the question because I was sure it was a soldering issue. I was sure I remembered syncing in that menu but apparently not, because that was my issue. I'm not sure whether to laugh or cry but I owe you both a huge thank you XD
 
On the MX chip, there's that little component on the back labeled as B+ that should protect the chip. From what I understand, I should wire B+ to that instead of the chip's leg for protection. I just cut out the MX chip as per the rectangle in the guide and my multimeter says that the place I should wire B+ to isn't connected to the pink leg of the MX. Do I need to hook them back together somehow or is that normal?
 
That's normal.
 
Shank said:
Not per hour. 3 amps is a measurement of current, not of capacity. 3 amp-hours per hour would be 3 amps.

@GC64 The rating on a PCB means that if the current draw exceeds the number, in this case 3 amps, the safety function will kick in and the battery will be disconnected. Your battery could be 4mah or 4,000,000mah, and that PCB will work with it. But if you draw more than 3 amps through the pcb, it will shut off.

@Spencer Richardson Most likely an issue with how you have the GC+ wired up, but I have actually seen this issue before when I was messing with the U10. Probably isn't the issue, but if the voltage of the 3.3v line isn't the same as when the U10 turns on the console, the gamecube controller (which uses a 3.3v data line) goes bananas.

-Check your stick wiring
-Measure the voltage of the gamecube data line to ensure its 3.3v
-Check your 3.3v line to make sure the voltage isn't dropping
-Check your U10 to make sure the voltage coming out of it is 3.3v, and that it isn't shorted to the 3.3v line
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Stick wiring is good, gc data is 3.3, u10 is 3.3 and not shorted, my 3.3v volt line is actually coming out as 3.36v... is that ok? This is the same line I've been running both sticks from as well. Could that be causing the problem?

Edit: I wired up a physical controller port using the same data, 3.3v(3.36v), and ground and my gc controller worked fine. Sooo is it safe to say I've eliminated that it's a problem with those wires? I'm thinking it must be a problem with the gc+ or my sticks. Because it was working great and I was testing a game on it and then I turned my Wii off and on again and the problem started. I switched out my main analog stick earlier when I thought that was the problem, and i replaced the cstick like a week ago. Is it possible for the gc+ firmware to get corrupted, and if so could this have anything to do with my problem? Thanks for the help?
 
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Might be a question that's answered somewhere else, but I can't find the answer. Does PortablizeMii break the Mii channel? I tried booting it up because I wanted to make a Mii and make sure saves worked on Wii games like I wanted, but it just went to a black screen. I plugged the WiFi chip back in and then the Mii channel would run for about 20 seconds before I would hit that lovely "An error has occured" screen.
 
GingerOfOz said:
Might be a question that's answered somewhere else, but I can't find the answer. Does PortablizeMii break the Mii channel? I tried booting it up because I wanted to make a Mii and make sure saves worked on Wii games like I wanted, but it just went to a black screen. I plugged the WiFi chip back in and then the Mii channel would run for about 20 seconds before I would hit that lovely "An error has occured" screen.
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I also had this error, forgot to delete miis first. My guess is it's the disc drive?

Also, what capacitors will I need for the pth08080? Is it just one 100uF per pth?
 
What do you guys use for 3ds joysticks to hold them in place? I messed up and got mine without screws and now the only screws I can find are like $6 per pair unless I get a huge assortment which doesn't guarantee getting any.
 
Madmorda said:
What do you guys use for 3ds joysticks to hold them in place? I messed up and got mine without screws and now the only screws I can find are like $6 per pair unless I get a huge assortment which doesn't guarantee getting any.
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Get M1.2x7mm screws on eBay. I can't measure very precisely the ones used on the 3DS because my caliper battery died, so they might be M1, but both should be fine :)

EDIT: If you can't fine ones 7mm long you can probably use 6mm ones
 
With U10 relocation on a 6 layer board, do I have to cut a trace?
 
How many amps do each component on the Wii draw (everything individually)? And how do you determine battery life?
 
Ikeprodigy said:
How many amps do each component on the Wii draw (everything individually)? And how do you determine battery life?
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There's no measurement on each component, but you can find some rough measurement on the current drawn by each voltage line here: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/sswiit-revitalized.146/page-3#post-1463
To determine the battery life multiply the voltage with the drawn current on each line (also including the screen, the audio amp and the other devices) and sum the results together to get the total power (usually with a 4layer wii and the other devices is ~10W). Then multiply your battery pack voltage by its capacity to get the maximum stored energy and divide this value by the total power computed before.
 
kind of a more general question, but what kind of epoxy is good if I want to patch a hole, sand it down, and spraypaint a plastic case?
 
FroggestSpirit said:
kind of a more general question, but what kind of epoxy is good if I want to patch a hole, sand it down, and spraypaint a plastic case?
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I'm not sure on an epoxy ( usually those are for more really gluing something into place) but a popular choice for cover holes and spots is Bondo. IMO it's a double edge sword. It's a pain to use (especially for your first time. It does get easier though) and it takes forever to sand depending on how much ends up there. Plus it smells. really bad. It's really easy to find and get in the US but i've heard that it's expensive outside the US. Also there is some difference on spot putty, and other such things. @Madmorda is a pro on the stuff (seriously her artwork is amazing) so she can give you more info on what's the best kind.
 
I don't remember if I shared this on BitBuilt before, but this is exactly why I made this video:

And yes, Bondo STINKS! Whenever I work with it, it has to be out in my garage. Otherwise the smell doesn't get out of my basement for about 24 hours.
 
For securing 32g wire soldered to vias, would you guys recommend hot glue, epoxy, or something different? Epoxy would be strong but if something were to break underneath it would probably be a nightmare to remove. Hot glue would be easier to move but I'm wondering if it would melt. Any suggestions?
 
jefflongo said:
For securing 32g wire soldered to vias, would you guys recommend hot glue, epoxy, or something different? Epoxy would be strong but if something were to break underneath it would probably be a nightmare to remove. Hot glue would be easier to move but I'm wondering if it would melt. Any suggestions?
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I have never used epoxy but I do use hotglue and it works really well. I've never had a wire come loose after hot gluing it. That being said, hotglue can be both your best friend and your worst enemy. You can look up some techniques to help you in hot gluing but as far as securing wires then it works great.

If you have good ventilation then I wouldn't worry to much about it melting. Hot glue doesn't melt until approx. 120 c and if you are doing your cooling right I don't believe that your portable should ever get that hot unless something is seriously wrong.
 
FroggestSpirit said:
Is rust-oleum crystal clear good for a clear coat?
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I use Rustoleum For Plastics for most of my cosmetic mods because it's cheap and easily available. But if you're clear coating a portable or a controller or a handheld, I would recommend something a bit sturdier. I'm going to use Tamiya for my wiip because it's made for RC and model projects, and is the most sturdy paint I have come across to date. Also Rustoleum tends to stick to itself (like on a battery port cover) whereas I've never had that issue with Tamiya. It is overpriced though XD

Edit: also, definitely avoid Rustoleum for plastic in gloss colors.
 
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