Worklog The AtarWii Liinx

[Stitches]

The Briick is abandoned. Ended up being too big, clumsy, stupid, and as it turns out, NOT airport safe. So Imma make an actually PORTABLE portable this time. Hopefully one I can make neat as fuck and take on a plane to NSW later this year.

Current plan as of 24/06:

• Atari Lynx 2 shell
• Original GC buttons, joysticks and dpad with a GC+
• 3v rumble
• Bootleg PS1 controller triggers
• 5 inch 16:9 screen with composite and HDMI from a Pluto2
• OMGWTF trim with custom regs, fed by 7.4v pack with 4 cells
• Midget class D amp I can't remember the designation of, with 2w8ohm speakers bypassing the onboard preamp
• Relocated bluetooth, no wifi
• Low battery LED
• PortablizeMii and USB slot. Worked out how to get saves off my memcard and into Nintendont's virtual cards, so no reason to not use it now
• Slightly less buttons
• Maybe internal wiimote

Spoiler: Old leapster I got the shits with and gave up on

 

[cheese]

Did your brick get taken by Airport Security? Did they just take it or question you as well?

Also, your digikey link is broken, the link should have /product-detail/en/ and then some other garbage after it. Search result links always break because they made their site weird

 

[Stitches]

Did your brick get taken by Airport Security? Did they just take it or question you as well?

Also, your digikey link is broken, the link should have /product-detail/en/ and then some other garbage after it. Search result links always break because they made their site weird

Nah, but someone I know who does that job told me there's no way it'd be let onto even a domestic plane.

The link error might be because I'm using the AU site and a link from my cart, will fix.

Fixed.

 

[Stitches]

Spoiler: Old leapster I got the shits with and gave up on

Did some chopping

Did some gluing

Did some planning and measurements (so much epoxy)

Once my screen and Digikey orders arrive, I can buzz the Wii and start doing this shit for realsies.

 

[Stitches]

The screen arrived, but it doesn't have any controls o_0. Not sure if have been duped.

I see some tinned contacts where it looks like a JST plug should be. Maybe one of the 400 billion two wire boards I have will work.

 

[Shank]

The screen arrived, but it doesn't have any controls o_0. Not sure if have been duped.

I see some tinned contacts where it looks like a JST plug should be. Maybe one of the 400 billion two wire boards I have will work.

A lot of screens don't have controls, but they don't really need them. Post a picture

 

[Stitches]

A lot of screens don't have controls, but they don't really need them. Post a picture

It's the same 3.5" from the BOM with identical board (from an Australian distributor). I know it doesn't really need controls, but it's currently refusing to turn on.

EDIT: Yep this thing's dead. Voltage is going everywhere it should, but nobody's home.

 

[Shank]

What voltage are you using? IIRC, that screen won't turn on unless it is receiving a video signal

 

[Stitches]

What voltage are you using? IIRC, that screen won't turn on unless it is receiving a video signal

12v straight from wall wart. Does it need the video signal to be present BEFORE it receives power? I tried after and it didn't work.

 

[cheese]

Try pressing the power button? Usually you short ground to the signal for a button press.

 

[Stitches]

Try pressing the power button? Usually you short ground to the signal for a button press.

There's no power button on the driver board. Do you mean briefly cut power to the screen once a video signal is present?

Sorry if I'm being dumb, today's not really my day and I'm bamboozled as fuq.

 

[cheese]

Nah, you said there was a header for a buttons panel? If the header is labeled, short the power pin to ground momentarily to simulate pressing the button. It shouldn't matter when the board receives a signal, just as long as it gets one it should show it.

 

[Stitches]

Nah, you said there was a header for a buttons panel? If the header is labeled, short the power pin to ground momentarily to simulate pressing the button. It shouldn't matter when the board receives a signal, just as long as it gets one it should show it.

I'll try that, but these boards usually only have + - menu buttons

EDIT: The fucking rocket scientist I am....... The damn pins on the JST were fucked and I didn't notice. Bent them back into shape and now it turns on when receiving the video feed. Thanks for the help cheese.

 

[Stitches]

The stupid aggressive curve on the face of the Leapster 1 has got me butthurt. I can't mount shit on it in a way that I like the look of. I'm changing the shell to the Leapster Explorer, since it has a FLAT FUCKING FACE. Inbuilt LR triggers and a USB slot too. Will make life a bit easier and give me a bit more internal room to work with.

EDIT: Duped again, I got the Explorer and it's not as wide as the Leapster 1. I now have less frontal space to work with. This is going to be a pain.

 

[Stitches]

Spoiler: Old shit for old people

Look how petite this thing is

External dimensions are 16.4 x 8.3 x 3.5cm at the widest points. 4cm in the protruding battery cover. It's only a hair bigger than an SL57..... how the fuck am I going to pull this off.... Imma have to sand the inside of this thing to within an inch of its life and then some.

OP updated with new plan details.

 

[cheese]

Nice! Just power it with coin cells so you have enough room for everything else

 

[Stitches]

Nice! Just power it with coin cells so you have enough room for everything else

Challenge accepted

 

[Stitches]

HAPPY FUCKING DAYS BOIS! On a whim, I decided to check if one of the KYV-N2 V6 boards I have are compatible with the Dalian Good Display GD567M03-GTI050TN22 LCD I have AND IT FUCKING WORKS! It seems to be functionally identical to the ZJ050NA-08C LCD that the board is usually bundled with. This changes the entire game. The KYV-N2 V6 is the ONLY driver board I've found to date that can take 50Hz AND 60Hz PAL composite video without any bullshit or shifted pixels. The price tag on the board probably has a fair bit to do with it, but that's besides the point. I now have a working screen and board set that finally displays everything at a level I can accept. I'm going to do a bit of tinkering to see if I can get this beautiful thing running off a 7.4v battery pack.

More updates and sexy casework to follow next week when my super special delivery gets here.

 

[fibbef]

Current mood level: Stitches

 

[Stitches]

Time for some new memes.

The explorer ended up being such a stupid shape that I could barely fit two cells into it, which is unacceptable for me. So Imma use this old busted Lynx 2 instead. The shell is already half done and everything except the screen is just superglued in place for now, but Imma have to relocate the trigger assemblies a bit. They're quite tall and hit the control stick and ABXY. If I can't Tetris fuckery my way to victory, I'll just use 3DS sliders and trim the buttons a bit. Doesn't matter much to me. Plus side though, I can easily fit 4 cells in it. Maybe 6 if I feel the need later.

Yes I basically copied Akira, I know. His GC Lynx was the portable that got me into this stupid black hole of time and money