ABS/PLA? If it's ABS it should be able to be smoothed with acetone (practice with failed prints first!), and you can also smooth by painting/sanding multiple layers until it gets smooth enough.
Worklog Ginger's Wii Portable Worklog
- Thread starter GingerOfOz
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Yeah, I'm using ABS. Would I want to put the acetone on before painting, or after?
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Before.
Definitely before, acetone is mainly used as paint thinner since it's great at melting things (paint and plastic are two examples). I would also suggest using it in a well ventilated area, or better yet, outside.
It'd be nice if the listings said if they're high or low signal >.>
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"SDN switch pin, high power, low shutdown,can single-chip control"
smh..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181406329936?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Second time I've done this in two days. WELP, these pills are bad. I'm just gonna... go >.>
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Are you saying you have to wire 5v to the +5v pin then wire the +5v pin to the SDN pin for it to work?
Yes. That's the shutdown pin that must be connected to 5V for the amplifier to work
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I was just wondering what program you're using to 3D print your case?
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Autodesk Inventor 2017. It's pretty awesome, but can be difficult to learn. It's also free if you're a student.
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Ohhhhh I'll look into that, seems pretty interesting
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Wrapped up (hopefully) the front/mid section of my case.
I'm just about ready to e-mail the part to my teacher to get it printed out. Before I do that, I'm going to take @Shank 's advice and print the screen part separately so that the rest of the body has a nice flat surface to print on. I'm not too worried about the other things that don't have a solid foundation because the good 3D printer prints structural material to help the part from correctly. You have to put the part into an acid bath for 24 hours, but it comes out looking really nice. I'm also going to add some screw posts for me to screw into before I send it off.
I plan to have more ventilation than what is on the bottom of the case. That there is just extra, because I figure it's better to have too much airflow than too little.
In other news, I got my IR LEDs working, so my sensor bar works too! The two widely spaced holes near the top of the case are for those. The little one in the middle is a little white LED I'm using as my rumble. I was considering putting in a switch to turn the sensor bar on/off, but I don't feel like the LEDs would really drain that much juice. I've also decided to drop the headphone jack, because it looks like that process is currently more complicated than I had anticipated. (At least until @Aurelio finishes the amp he's cooking up...)
If you have any last minute suggestions/critiques on the case please let me know!
I'm just about ready to e-mail the part to my teacher to get it printed out. Before I do that, I'm going to take @Shank 's advice and print the screen part separately so that the rest of the body has a nice flat surface to print on. I'm not too worried about the other things that don't have a solid foundation because the good 3D printer prints structural material to help the part from correctly. You have to put the part into an acid bath for 24 hours, but it comes out looking really nice. I'm also going to add some screw posts for me to screw into before I send it off.
I plan to have more ventilation than what is on the bottom of the case. That there is just extra, because I figure it's better to have too much airflow than too little.
In other news, I got my IR LEDs working, so my sensor bar works too! The two widely spaced holes near the top of the case are for those. The little one in the middle is a little white LED I'm using as my rumble. I was considering putting in a switch to turn the sensor bar on/off, but I don't feel like the LEDs would really drain that much juice. I've also decided to drop the headphone jack, because it looks like that process is currently more complicated than I had anticipated. (At least until @Aurelio finishes the amp he's cooking up...)
If you have any last minute suggestions/critiques on the case please let me know!
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Cool, is the official color purple?
I see what you did with the speaker holes ;3
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Is it a uprint? If so, you may not need to print the bezel as a separate piece. The dissolvable fatty support material makes supported areas come out clean, unlike single material printers. I have access to uprints, but I avoid them because the plastic is proprietary and expensive (like a dollar a gram), and you have to buy a new print bed every time you print something.
