Worklog SP PSII Build

[LokiDragon]

Which 3.3 volt point are you using to close the disc lid?

The one by the 'A' of the AT TENTION: and the bit by the Usb port... I wanted to keep slot two so I could install a 64gb memory card permanently so I could switch the 'internal' save files with slot one so I dont need to carry a load of memory cards around just one or two.

I got this off mod retro when I started... Think it's off the benheck forums.

Instead of using a tact switch I just wire it to the original disk lid button and reset button as I was keeping the disk drive.

 

[Lightning]

Okay, so couple things, first off I discovered a few years ago a much safer method of closing the lid, that 3.3 comes from some other source, this is the original dedicated power line connected to an alt disc lid test pad

Second, did you mean that you wired the reset switch to 3.3?

 

[LokiDragon]

I've just wired the two connections like what's in the picture I've just reused the open lid switch (the brown one) and the original reset button there on a L shaped bored with a ribbon cable coming out, I just cut the bottom off the L at the corner and soldered the wires to the two switches. It seems to work.

 

[Lightning]

Fair enough

 

[LokiDragon]

Actually I've spotted a problem, well more of a minor annoyance... I got a bit lazy and just used a 5 volt regulator linked to the main battery along with some stabilizer caps to power the sound board, trouble is it's not a low drop out reg like the one I replaced on the PS2 Motherboard so when the battery is at 1/4 power the sound goes mute... Is there anywhere on the motherboard I can get 5 volts off that wont affect the play function? I read somewhere the voltage Regulator by the USB port is a safe bet... Is this true?

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

Actually I've spotted a problem, well more of a minor annoyance... I got a bit lazy and just used a 5 volt regulator linked to the main battery along with some stabilizer caps to power the sound board, trouble is it's not a low drop out reg like the one I replaced on the PS2 Motherboard so when the battery is at 1/4 power the sound goes mute... Is there anywhere on the motherboard I can get 5 volts off that wont affect the play function? I read somewhere the voltage Regulator by the USB port is a safe bet... Is this true?

I'm planning to power my amp via the chopped off second USB +5v via, safest bet for me. I only want to do it so i can keep my second controller/memory port though. If you find the via, do please share where it is

 

[LokiDragon]

Far as I'm aware each usb port has it's own Regulator... the one for the remaining usb port is the one I'm talking about:

The other one gets chopped off with the other port...

What I want to know is if I power the sound amp off this remaining reg will it stop the Port working?

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

It's an easy relocation, i wouldn't power off the primary personally. I'm no electrician but I'd imagine the draw from the amp would either kill the port periodically or sound would drop periodically.

 

[Lightning]

 

[LokiDragon]

Erm....No What? I'm not even sure where that is on the board??? What's all the red and green lines?

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

Looks like one of the disk drive ribbons and maybe a memory card? Not sure what they are or what no is

 

[Lightning]

The 'no' was left over on the image from when I posted these findings on modretro back in 2015, the 'no' pad is the same one in that picture you posted, its colored teal so you can see where it comes from, and where it comes from is the CPU. I probably cropped the pictures too much but they are very large. Also sorry if the red and green ones were confusing, as I say these were cropped from old research materials, they are the lines used by modchips

 

[Lightning]

http://modretro.com/xen/index.php?t...ring-79001-last-update-mon-mar-23-2015.13829/

 

[LokiDragon]

Okay great so you're saying I'm potentially going to damage my board if I don't change it? That seems an easy thing to switch over thanks for the advice.

Hmm... Well that's interesting. I switched it over and my game that didn't get past the title screen before starts up properly now. Still won't play though. At least I can test port two is working now! XD

 

[Lightning]

Whats the game called? I'll try it on PCSX2, I have a dump of the 79001 BIOS

 

[Lightning]

Just looked at the schematic, and the point was actually CS5!!

 

[LokiDragon]

It was soulcaliber 2, but I've got it working good now through some tweaking of the potentiometers on the disk drives eye... Only one I've tried of my old games that still won't work is War of the monsters... I've got the psone CD based games running fine and even the finicky DVD roms like shadow of the colossus, which was jumping at the Fmv sequences originally. But no matter what I do WoM refuses to work despite working fine on my spare Ps2.

 

[Lightning]

Have you tried swapping DVD drives? You can get spare parts from this guy http://store.richspsxparts.com/slps2sclaspm.html

 

[LokiDragon]

I have actually, this is one from my spares box... But like I said it's just that game. I suppose I could order a brand new DVD laser to be sure but it's just odd that non of my other PS2 games mess up. There was one point I got it to play but it wouldn't load the first level. The loading screen came on but nothing else happened it just froze, Shadow of the colossus was doing the same thing but I've lower the potentiometer and it plays smoothly now doesn't even lag a little.

 

[Lightning]

Why did you start playing with the potentiometer values in the first place? If you don't mind me asking, and do you know what they are supposed to be?