Worklog Xbox Mini Case

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Hi,

I've been working on a small case for the original xbox console. The idea is to use a PicoPsu, 2.5" HDD and omit the DVD drive in order to make the whole xbox (not including an external AC adapter) be 230mm wide, 210mm deep and only 50mm high. Please excuse the awful render, I'm still getting used to the software

Revision 1.14 xbox mini case v86-4.png


The two controller ports are made by using the breakaway part of the controller cables and the LED's are HDD activity, LAN activity and power (bi colour red/blue). There will also be a Xerc2 installed so the console can be turned on/off via the official xbox remote using an IR eye next to the controller ports and there will be an internal RGB led strip. I'm also hoping to integrate Alexa/Google home voice commands to turn it on/off and control the LED's by using an MHcozy wifi inching relay.
The case will be machined from aluminium and the top faceplate will be lasercut acrylic (smoked so the dual OLED displays show through the top).

xbox mini 26.jpg


There will be an OGX360 installed for the other 2 controller ports and there is a cut out on the rear to house a USB port for the receiver

xbox mini 30.jpg


I'm also going to use different heatsinks and fans and have designed a bracket to attach them. Other mods may include HDMI output

xbox mini 28.jpg


My project is nowhere near the level of some on here but I'm finding it good fun :)
 

Luca

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This looks really cool, good luck with the project! I didn't know about OGX360, that's a pretty nice wireless solution too
 
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Thank you, there have been quite a lot of developments for the old xbox fairly recently which which brought me back to playing around with them again
 
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So I am in the process of printing the case now, so far the prints seem ok
xbox mini print1.jpg


As the case is quite large I've had to slice it a lot just to print it

aaaabbbbccccd.jpg


The dual OLED displays fit well

146254800_3988268891196739_2656771604257171319_o.jpg


Currently printing the base part, it's a 21 hour print. Then it's the front, back and corners to go.
 
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Size comparison to a stock original xbox

xbox mini 32.jpg


Scrap motherboard used just to check alignment and HDD bracket in place. For some reason Cura omitted the rear back screw post :\ I can fix that though.

xbox mini 33.jpg


Now to spend another 20 plus hours printing the rest

xbox mini 34.jpg
 
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I've redesigned the HDD bracket to accept a Startech SATA to IDE adapter, the HDD now mounts underneath the bracket. There is still room for a modchip below.
I've also done various tweaks to the design to allow for this. I have since made the mounting holes and reinforced the bracket.

xbox mini sata hdd bracket.jpg


I also tested assembly of the whole case to check everything lines up after slicing it so it could be printed. So far its not bad, does need some filling and sanding here and there but that's my fault for not being more careful with the glue.

xbox mini 35.jpg

xbox mini 36.jpg
 
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i love it <3
are the files made public at the end or can the cases be bought?
 
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Nold

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I'm using an adapter for an existing Pico PSU

View attachment 15859
Did you test if it works, yet? ppl keep telling PicoPSU's work. But I couldn't find one that could possibly supply the 5V 13A current needed by the xbox..

Anyways, nice project & CAD skills!
 
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It was proved working on xbox-scene years ago. You do need to remove 2 or 3 filter capacitors from the xbox mainboard and the bios animation is a bit choppy but it does work. Here's a quote from the thread where it was shown working:

"So, when searching for a replacement PSU, wattage does not really matter, what matters is how much current it can supply on the 5V line,
the xbox tends to use a lot.

I have done a lot of work and experimentation with powering Xboxes from DC-DC power supplies such as this (I even MADE my own power supply),
so trust me here.

From my tests, during normal operation, the Xbox only uses about 60 watts. This can drop even more is you are using a 2.5" HDD, no dvd drive, etc.
However, the majority of this current is on 5V, up to 8 or 10 amps.

So, according to the datasheets, the 60W picopsu Sicknasty used can actually supply more current on 5V than the 120W one, even though the 12V current
is substantially less (but if you are using no dvd drive and a 2.5" hard drive, the current draw on the 12V is next to nothing, the motherboard only
uses 12V to power the fans and one or two small chips), so it's actually a better choice for the Xbox.

But even still, the picopsu is BARELY enough 5V current to power the motherboard. The Xbox motherboard has a lot of capacitors on it to keep the
5V supply clean and smooth so the chips will work correctly. However, when the motherboard first starts up, all the capacitors are discharged,
so the PSU must supply enough current at startup to both run the motherboard AND charge the capacitors (the inrush current can be over double the
normal operating current). So, with the amount of capacitance on the motherboard, the Picopsu can't handle it and will not power up,
that is why some capacitors need to be removed.
That will lower the startup current, but you cant remove all of them because the motherboard still needs to have them there so the board works properly.

On the 1.0 and 1.1 motherboards, MS was nice enough to use a bunch of smaller capacitors all hooked together on the 5V line, so all you have
to do is remove one or two of them and leave the rest there. However, on the 1.2-1.5 motherboards, for cost reasons, they consolidated them
down into one very large capacitor on each side of the motherboard. This cannot be completely removed, else the board won't work. So, instead
of just removing it, you must replace it with one of a smaller value, such as one off a 1.0-1.1 motherboard.

Edit: @NiC_CC - Well, that psu you used (PW200-M) has the same peak current rating on 5V as the 60W Picopsu, so if that one was able to power a 1.2-1.5
motherboard without removing capacitors, maybe it's not necessary on these version motherboards, only the 1.0 and 1.1 (since the have more capacitors
on them)"

Obviously a custom power supply would be a much better choice but that is beyond my current skill set.
 
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Faceplates have arrived. I forgot to take tolerances into consideration when recreating it in Illustrator so they need a slight sanding around the edges but I will amend the faceplate.dxf so that no one else will have this issue

xbox mini faceplates.jpg
 
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So the new PSU arrived today, it's an Inter-Tech mini itx PSU (model 88882190)
This claims to output 5v at 12A and can supply up to 200w depending on the AC adapter.
This should mean that no filter caps need to be removed as 12A is plenty when running without a DVD rom and using a 2.5" HDD. Will test as soon as my AC adapter arrives.
157394659_4071101259580168_3266776683761023631_o.jpg
 

Luca

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This is looking pretty cool. A case like this probably makes the Xbox go from weighing as much as a car to like one Wii.

What adapter labelled "ATX to XBOX" is that?
 
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Thanks, there is quite a difference but mainly in size.
That's an ATX to XBOX adapter created by a guy in Germany (calls himself N64 Freak on the forums, he's well known for his 1.4ghz 128mb xbox's and various other upgrades). You can find the PCB on dirtypcbs.com and it has the BOM printed on the reverse.
 
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So I've changed the design slightly. Now the hdd mounts to the underside of the top part which means a startech sata to ide adapter fits much better and means no more annoying hdd bracket.

Another full case print in progress which incorporates a few other minor tweaks.
 

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