Question OM6 Ashiida Display Issues

[Gh0st]

Hey everyone! I could definitely use some help..
I started an Ashiida build and ended up with an OM6 motherboard. I also accidentally ordered a PMS lite instead of the PMS-2, not realizing that the 1.8v connection on the lite was not an output, and I'm still not sure that this is required. I removed the u8 and used the PMS u10 emulation. When I power the board, the CPU gets warm and the av connection flickers briefly on the display, but then it's just a no signal. I should also note that I enabled VGA through RVloader, but I don't see this being an issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Stitches]

The PMS Lite needs to be fed 1.8v from the Wii in order for its internal logic to work correctly. Also the PMS boards are not designed to handle the current draw of 6 layer motherboards and don't really work correctly. You need a 4 layer board

 

[Gh0st]

Thank you for your reply. I will find myself a 4 layer board!

 

[Gh0st]

Alright, so I got a 4 layer board in. Setup RVloader, trimmed, threw it in.. but unfortunately still no display. I'm still using the PMS Lite, and checked output of all connections (all good), and CPU gets hot. I'm thinking it could be the component connection but not sure..

 

[Wesk]

Alright, so I got a 4 layer board in. Setup RVloader, trimmed, threw it in.. but unfortunately still no display. I'm still using the PMS Lite, and checked output of all connections (all good), and CPU gets hot. I'm thinking it could be the component connection but not sure..

Pics of the underside will help.

 

[Gh0st]

I apologize, I will get a pic and send it over. Only thing wired up underneath is the u10.

 

[Stitches]

Try connecting an additional ground wire from the PMS to the Wii. Also, that ground wire for the screen doesn't look like it's very well secured on the Wii side. I'd redo/relocate that as well

 

[Gh0st]

Alright, tried the suggested with no luck :/
Here is a picture of the back of the board

 

[Stitches]

There is a lot of conductive debris left on the board from trimming that might be causing problems. Give the whole thing a good clean off with a soft bristled brush and some isopropyl alcohol.

Also, have you done the voltage line resistance checks?

 

[Gh0st]

Will do! I haven't actually, I'm fairly new to the portabalizing stuff so I apologize for all the questions..

 

[Stitches]

I would disconnect the PMS from the Wii and check the resistances according to this table, the information will indicate if it's a potentially simple issue to resolve. Consult the following voltage diagram from the Wii Trimming guide for where to probe.

 

[Gh0st]

Just switched to 22AWG single core and cleaned the board as recommended. These are the readings.I noticed that the 1v line starts at 93 and slowly climbs to 119. Connected everything with the same result, cpu hot but no display.

1v - 93ohm
1.15v - 26ohm
1.8v -36ohm
3.3v - 553ohm

93 26 36 553
121 131 695
85 604
600

 

[Stitches]

Just switched to 26AWG single core and cleaned the board as recommended. These are the readings.I noticed that the 1v line starts at 93 and slowly climbs to 119. Connected everything with the same result, cpu hot but no display.

1v - 93ohm
1.15v - 26ohm
1.8v -36ohm
3.3v - 553ohm

93 26 36 553
121 131 695
85 604
600

26AWG is too thin, you should be using 22AWG stranded wire for Wii power and ground

 

[Gh0st]

I apologize, just updated. 22AWG single core.

 

[Gh0st]

UPDATE
Soldered Reset to GND and it boots to homebrew menu, however the screen is upside down haha

 

[Stitches]

UPDATE
Soldered Reset to GND and it boots to homebrew menu, however the screen is upside down haha

That's normal. The HBC displays upside down when you modify a certain IOS module, which happens to be one that RVLoader replaces to make portablising easier