Correct, removing either would accomplish the same task. Whatever's easier.
Correct, the connections from the GC+ to the controls can use 34AWG no problem. As for your other wires, everything looks like it should be okay to my eye. Just keep an eye on the USB data wires, they're easy to accidentally break off if they catch on something.I'm going to work on the GC+ and the controls now. All I need are data cables right? I'm either going to use the 28 gauge or the 34 gauge.
Like the title suggests, can someone check my work so far? Waiting for a new PMS is going to take awhile and I'm obviously going to shorten the cables, but I just need to know if I would need to fix something or if there is a better place to wire something else. No rush this time. For real. View attachment 11104
Yes this is correctWithout going to details... How do you guys normally wire your batteries? B+ is the smaller circle side and B- is the flat one, but B- is connected GND on the PMS right?
CorrectYes... Parallel... Thank you for confirming that... That's where the B+ are all connected with each other and all the B- are also connected with each other to extend the capacity but keep the same voltage. It makes sense now that my second PMS is dead. Just to also confirm, series is when voltage increases but capacity stays the same, yes?
8? Sounds kinda low to me... Anyway, don't try to measure resistance on a powered circuit, it won't read right.that being 8-ish Ohms
Also, just making sure, are you giving this screen component or VGA video? If it's VGA, you need the hsync and vsync wired as welldon't try to measure resistance on a powered circuit, it won't read right.