Wii SP 2.0

[Nils Fagnère]

Hi!
I love your work, and as I told you, I'm really interested in this one. Since I do not quite understand, I have therefore prepared a few questions, if you do not mind ^^

 

[Aurelio]

Hi!
I love your work, and as I told you, I'm really interested in this one. Since I do not quite understand, I have therefore prepared a few questions, if you do not mind ^^

All the purple PCBs you see there are custom designs

 

[JacksonS]

@Nils Fagnère I got the white buttons and the membrane underneath from a DS Lite, but I designed the purple boards myself.

The black metal piece that I painted partially white is the heatsink (this one in particular). It's the same black part you see in the second picture. And yes, that silver piece under the heatsink is the fan.

 

[Nils Fagnère]

Thanks a lot! I will have other questions for later

 

[JacksonS]

3DS joystick caps came in. I'm liking the accent of gray.

I'm using some thin spacers from an original 3DS between the cap and the joystick so the inside of the joystick is never exposed.

 

[Nils Fagnère]

Niiice!!
You buy the joysticks separately? Because I saw one on ebay ^^

 

[JacksonS]

You buy the joysticks separately? Because I saw one on ebay ^^

Yes, I get mine from eBay. I think mine came from the link on Gman's BOM.

 

[JacksonS]

The screen is in. Unfortunately the bezel is slightly visible because the 3D print isn't perfect, but it's not jarring.

Starting to connect everything internally with FFCs. The FFC for the long board at the bottom is folded over and likes to pop out of place, so I have to hold it down with tape for now.

I did some quick and dirty wiring to get the video working with an untrimmed motherboard. The L-shaped board serves as a pass-through to get the power and signals other than audio/video to and from the motherboard.

The blue controller select LEDs are looking a lot nicer in this white case than they looked in the black case. They were originally a yellow-green color, but I changed them to mimic the Wii remote player LEDs.

 

[DeoNaught]

Smexy af

 

[fibbef]

That looks incredibly beautiful. If you have some thin plastic sheeting, I would recommend making an internal bezel to place between your case and screen to hide the screen's trim. I think a narrow black trim would look nice and not too out of place since the screen itself has the narrowest of a black border.

 

[cheese]

You could also just color on it with some black sharpie or paint, just so it doesn't stick out when the display is off. This is gonna be cool when it's done!

 

[JacksonS]

That looks incredibly beautiful. If you have some thin plastic sheeting, I would recommend making an internal bezel to place between your case and screen to hide the screen's trim. I think a narrow black trim would look nice and not too out of place since the screen itself has the narrowest of a black border.

You could also just color on it with some black sharpie or paint, just so it doesn't stick out when the display is off. This is gonna be cool when it's done!

Thank you both! I want to do something to hide it and I'm considering my options. I removed the bezel and spray painted it black for the prototype, but I can't do that this time for reasons.

 

[cheese]

I removed the bezel and spray painted it black for the prototype, but I can't do that this time for reasons.

Swap the screen from the prototype into here then, they're the same aren't they?

 

[JacksonS]

Swap the screen from the prototype into here then, they're the same aren't they?

Eh... not really.

 

[JacksonS]

Can't forget about the back half of the portable. I got the batteries and power supply board mounted first.

Next I got the AV board mounted, put some thermal pads on the heatsink and fan, and stuck a copper sheet on them. I also put a bunch of wires on the power supply board so I can be ready to lay the motherboard down. The twisted wires near the top are USB data wires that go to the motherboard and flash drive.

My motherboard trim is pretty conservative; I don't need any super slimming techniques to get it to fit in this case.

All wired up (mostly). The L-shaped board helps the wires be a bit more organized, as all the power wires from the power supply board can go to one spot. The board is shaped that way because there was originally going to be a WiFi module sitting in that notch, below the NAND chip, but I didn't have any place to put the antennas, so I decided against it.

The AV board wiring took a little while, but it worked without any issues. The black and gray wires are shielded wire from Wii WiFi antennas, definitely my favorite shielded wire to use. They carry the analog audio and video clock signals. I've found that it's really necessary to shield the 54 MHz clock signal if you're using GCVideo on Wii.

Here are the two halves, finally connected. There's also a 30-pin FFC between the two halves carrying HDMI video and audio that I haven't attached yet.

 

[Stitches]

 

[JacksonS]

I tried to trim the Wii remote in my last portable, but it still ended up being pretty big. I wanted to figure out how to make it as small as possible this time, so I took sandpaper to one of my 4-layer boards and made scans of all the layers.



With those scans I found out how to bypass the voltage regulator that takes the battery input and converts it to 3.3V. I was able to cut it down to not much more than the main IC. This required that I relocate the I2C EEPROM and the accelerometer (but it doesn't need the accelerometer to function).

 

[Ampz]

Awesome work figuring that out! I really can't wait to see you finish this.

 

[GingerOfOz]

I tried to trim the Wii remote in my last portable, but it still ended up being pretty big. I wanted to figure out how to make it as small as possible this time, so I took sandpaper to one of my 4-layer boards and made scans of all the layers.

View attachment 2916 View attachment 2917 View attachment 2918 View attachment 2919

With those scans I found out how to bypass the voltage regulator that takes the battery input and converts it to 3.3V. I was able to cut it down to not much more than the main IC. This required that I relocate the I2C EEPROM and the accelerometer (but it doesn't need the accelerometer to function).
View attachment 2920
View attachment 2921
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Would you consider making a guide on Wiimote trimming? It would be really cool to have a list of what's important and what's not, as well as how to perform the necessary relocations.

 

[JacksonS]

Would you consider making a guide on Wiimote trimming? It would be really cool to have a list of what's important and what's not, as well as how to perform the necessary relocations.

I'd love to contribute to some kind of guide, but I don't know how helpful it would be. Part of the trouble with making a Wii remote trimming guide is that there are countless revisions of the Wii remote and I only know how to trim this one specific board.