Yup! That's perfect.
Wiring the PMS to the Wii affects the resistance values, so some change is expected. I don't know the PMS' inherent resistances, but as long as the resistance between voltage lines and ground is at least double digits, it should be fineThanks, for the video CrazyGadget! I was able to get it off.
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EDIT:
This is a different question:
After wiring up a lot of stuff, I tested some resistances and it looks like ground and 3.3v are connected somehow. Does anyone know where it could be, or if it is just something that happens after you wire wire it up. I think it is not the latter because the other resistances are the same as they were before.
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Oh, also, I bridged some pins on the AVE. I still have to fix that. It might be that.
Nope, I didn't know that flux helped for desoldering. Thanks, I'll try that.Are you using any flux aside from the rosin flux that's inside the solder by default?
Also if you have any kapton tape handy, you can cut a bit of it and fold it over itself to make a little shim. Then you can heat one bridged pin and push the tape between the pins to attempt to sever the bridge. A thin razor blade like a scalpel of box cutter blade can be used to the same effect
Don't use electrical tape it will melt with the solder tip. Kapton tape is heat resistant tape.Nope, I didn't know that flux helped for desoldering. Thanks, I'll try that.
I don't have an kapton tape, but I have some normal electrical tape. Maybe I can use that?
Yes you needed to do it for VGA to workHi, I am almost finished, but I have one question.
I have enabled the rvloader VGA patch, so do I still need to give MODE 3.3v? I already did it yesterday, so I am just wondering if that is okay and not necessary or if I needed to do it. Thanks in advance
AFAIK those are the digital press pads for the triggers, ghere should be some membranes somewhere on that spot.Hey guys, I'm just finishing up the 3D modeling, and I have a couple of questions.
First, what are these? I know the sliders above are for the triggers, but I'm not sure what these do.
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Also, how can I make a compact cooling system for the Wii? I'm thinking about using the fan and the heatsinks from the Ashida. Should the fan blow into the heatsink? Should it suck the stuff or blow out? How does it fit if it has to go over the heatsinks? It would make the portable thick.
Anyone that has any ideas or that can explain how this is done would help a ton.
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The method used in the G-Wii is the most compact cooling solution currentlyHey guys, I'm just finishing up the 3D modeling, and I have a couple of questions.
First, what are these? I know the sliders above are for the triggers, but I'm not sure what these do.
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Also, how can I make a compact cooling system for the Wii? I'm thinking about using the fan and the heatsinks from the Ashida. Should the fan blow into the heatsink? Should it suck the stuff or blow out? How does it fit if it has to go over the heatsinks? It would make the portable thick. Last, how do the heatsinks clamp down?
Anyone that has any ideas or that can explain how this is done would help a ton.
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Thanks for the input, Tigerkev. I was thinking the same thing but I figured the start button would be used less and that I want it to look like a GameCube controller.Looks cool!
Though I suggest maybe putting the start button somewhere more accessible like between the buttons and C-Stick, though a bit to the left, the other side would have the same effect.