cfc_12

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Just got home from post office and school.

Looks like it's time to make an another one!

20180713_214139.jpg

20180713_215513.jpg


Thanks to @E64 !
I got the package today bro! :D
Btw, what's the wire for? :?:
 

Pacal

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You don't need to use the 3.5v from the controller to reset/boot the PS2. There are 2 pads you can solder to that is better near the BGA DVD decoder.

Are you using composite video with this?
 

cfc_12

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Is this the overall using the PMS?

ps2 pms.PNG


p.s. I'm no sure about the CMOS battery, I think 7.4v is wrong to wire to the B+
 
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Is this the overall using the PMS?

View attachment 16356

p.s. I'm no sure about the CMOS battery, I think 7.4v is wrong to wire to the B+
I hope you haven't wired the pms yet, if you wire the battery in a 2s fashion to the PMS you will fry the power unit as it is meant to run in a 1s2p fashion. I don't know what trim you are using but the ps2 pms requires an advanced trim, I saw a photo of a standard trim but that looks like someone elses photo

the CMOS battery will be a 3v button cell, 7.4v or such will likely burn something you don't want to
 

cfc_12

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I hope you haven't wired the pms yet, if you wire the battery in a 2s fashion to the PMS you will fry the power unit as it is meant to run in a 1s2p fashion. I don't know what trim you are using but the ps2 pms requires an advanced trim

the CMOS battery will be a 3v button cell, 7.4v or such will likely burn something you don't want to
1S2P? Does that mean that it should only run within the range of 3.7 ~ 4.2v?

and 2p, which means that the capacity will be doubled? since each battery is 3400 mAh, therefore 6800 mAh?

I don't see any 3v coming from the PS2 motherboard, will 3.5v be fine?
 
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1S2P? Does that mean that it should only run within the range of 3.7 ~ 4.2v?

and 2p, which means that the capacity will be doubled? since each battery is 3400 mAh, therefore 6800 mAh?

I don't see any 3v coming from the PS2 motherboard, will 3.5v be fine
Yeah 1s is a single LiPo voltage, 2p is parallel so yes capacity is doubled.

The battery 3v is 3v, using higher voltage or lower is not recommended it's a real time clock chip which is why a 3v button cell 2032 battery is used for this. The only thing the battery effects is the moving logo on the main screen and keeping the time, this won't be able to be ran off of the ps2 PMS.

You can see my worklog of how the PS2 looks when running the PS2 PMS
 

cfc_12

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Is it possible to use a Gameboy Volume Potentiometer to U-Amp?

How to wire it?

 

cfc_12

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I performed Standard Trim on my motherboard today.

After removing the filter capacitors which is those color gray

from this --->
to be trimmed.jpg

into this --->
standard capacitor.jpg


I tried testing it on an LCD if there would be at least a Composite Video output which I tried to tap in either of those two yellow circles base on the image above.

I have no video output

Have I missed something?

Do I have to connect 5v at least into this in order to have a video output?

5v.PNG
 
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So from the image that I can see of your trimmed mobo, I'd recommend double checking where your system voltage is coming in I'm assuming your 8.5v is that white wire, when I did the standard trim I had my 8.5v (and battery input) connected to this pad underneath, also white wire
Screenshot_20210410-121327_Photos.jpg


The split white is going from there to the linear regulator on top, red wire is 5v side to the audio amp. If this regulator is getting the proper input voltage it will give 5v to the system including the video chip on the bottom of the board.
Screenshot_20210410-121247_Photos.jpg


Then I took composite for testing from here
Screenshot_20210410-121151_Photos.jpg



The other thing I'd recommend is give your board a dust off too there looks like a lot of fine particles on it. The other check is just make sure you can see a seperation in the board layers so there no short
 

cfc_12

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So from the image that I can see of your trimmed mobo, I'd recommend double checking where your system voltage is coming in I'm assuming your 8.5v
I tested it today using a multitester

I found out that the right leg of the linear regulator is not outputting 5v, while the left leg which takes 8.5v is working perfectly.

Is it possible that the linear regulator is half-dead or only working in half?

or maybe because I removed these 2 capacitors?

removed.PNG


I don't think that these capacitors affects in receiving the voltage of the 8-pin audio dac or the linear regulator.
 
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I found out that the right leg of the linear regulator is not outputting 5v, while the left leg which takes 8.5v is working perfectly.

Is it possible that the linear regulator is half-dead or only working in half?

or maybe because I removed these 2 capacitors?
I can't say what would make a linear reg half dead but if you're not getting 5v that would definitely cause the system to not work properly.

Those 2 capacitors that you circled are following the L/R audio channels from the amplifier to the original av port those won't affect power. That's why they are labeled with #4 and #2
 

Stitches

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I'm guessing you've already checked for shorts?
 

cfc_12

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After soldering wires and before putting the battery for the Advance Trim, I have accidentally remove a very small capacitor

1st.jpg
2nd.jpg
3rd.jpg


Notice on the 3rd pic that the capacitor filters for the video and audio are already removed

Will the 5v be affected badly because a small capacitor was removed?
 

cfc_12

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Idk why is there no video even if it's just Composite

Is there anything missing or things I should do?

I'm using 22 awg even for the 5v for the video which is soldered from the back near the CXM4015AR

181260500_369678307761705_2962341951960825414_n.jpg

180875924_311437250498577_1561019156172379894_n.jpg
181537475_760529361305110_2512339000475246649_n.jpg
 

cfc_12

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Is the PMS broken?

The 1.8v has no voltage output

1st is 5v
2nd is 1.25v
3rd is 2.5v
4th is 1.8v (no output :( )
5th is 3.3v

The rest of the voltages which is 5v, 1.25v, 2.5v and 3.3v works

 
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