Worklog The Lombardii - First (and a half) portable

[DeoNaught]

Ow, But I love the pink, is that just regular Pla?

 

[z4ch4ry5]

Yup, just regular pink pla.

 

[Stitches]

Small update but an exciting one. First run of the top shell came back and it looks great!

As you can see I didn't finish removing the raft but that's because halfway through using one of those print removal tools to pry off the surprisingly resilient plastic, the blade slipped and I sliced my hand open. Rookie mistake, I know. I'm going to wait for the bleeding to stop before I get back to scraping off the rest of the raft.

View attachment 6193
View attachment 6194

Glass handling gloves m8. They shrug off damn near everything.

 

[BocuD]

Small update but an exciting one. First run of the top shell came back and it looks great!

As you can see I didn't finish removing the raft but that's because halfway through using one of those print removal tools to pry off the surprisingly resilient plastic, the blade slipped and I sliced my hand open. Rookie mistake, I know. I'm going to wait for the bleeding to stop before I get back to scraping off the rest of the raft.

View attachment 6193
View attachment 6194

Ayy nice you hackerbilly'd yourself
Wew that looks pretty neat for a first test print!
I wish I would just model out more shit before wasting filament on prints. The case design reminds me of Jeffs portable, it looks great.
I'd try to fix the "bubbling" (?) on the inside of your case though. I think it has something to do with either a nozzle thats too hot or a heated bed thats too hot.

 

[Madmorda]

Ayy nice you hackerbilly'd yourself
Wew that looks pretty neat for a first test print!
I wish I would just model out more shit before wasting filament on prints. The case design reminds me of Jeffs portable, it looks great.
I'd try to fix the "bubbling" (?) on the inside of your case though. I think it has something to do with either a nozzle thats too hot or a heated bed thats too hot.

Actually if I were to guess, I'd say it has a low infill and the walls were too thin. To me, those bubbles look like a beehive style infill that is just showing. Making the walls thicker in the slicer settings might help

 

[z4ch4ry5]

So after about a whole month and a half, progress! I just hiked this build cost by about $300 because I bought this thing: (Monoprice Maker Select Plus)

And then I used it to print this thing:

This was actually my third bottom shell revision in total, since the first one I made with my new printer curled up at one of the edges pretty badly. This second run was much more flat because I printed with a brim, but it still curled at one of the edges. It's minor enough where I don't care enough to waste another 100g of filament on a new revision, but it's still a small flaw. Any tips as to how to fix this in future prints?

For reference, I'm using Hatchbox Blue PLA, extruder temp 200C, bed temp 65C, 3mm wide brim on top of painters tape.

 

[Fruity_Grebbles]

So after about a whole month and a half, progress! I just hiked this build cost by about $300 because I bought this thing: (Monoprice Maker Select Plus)
View attachment 6580

And then I used it to print this thing:

View attachment 6581

This was actually my third bottom shell revision in total, since the first one I made with my new printer curled up at one of the edges pretty badly. This second run was much more flat because I printed with a brim, but it still curled at one of the edges. It's minor enough where I don't care enough to waste another 100g of filament on a new revision, but it's still a small flaw. Any tips as to how to fix this in future prints?

For reference, I'm using Hatchbox Blue PLA, extruder temp 200C, bed temp 65C, 3mm wide brim on top of painters tape.

View attachment 6582

Ooh ooh! Pick me!

I actually have a slightly modded MPS+ and use hatchbox filament myself.
One thing I would say off the bat is lower your temps. I print hatchbox black PLA at 190 with the bed at 60. I also print directly on glass, though the build-tak that the printer comes with isn't half bad.

Give that a go. If the plastic isn't as hot, it can cool faster at each layer and prevent curling as it contracts.

 

[z4ch4ry5]

Tried out the 190 and 60 temps and it looks much better already! In previous prints that bottom right corner would start to curl up at this layer already, so this is looking good. Redoing a print of the shell top. Have a bunch of papers for undergrad research due this week so hopefully I'll be able to get around to fitting in all the components and doing wiring afterwards!

 

[z4ch4ry5]

Finished a good amount of casework but then I ran into some wiring problems. I had wired up my regulators and they all output good voltages, but when I wired up the regs to the Wii, the input voltage on the whole Vout line from my charging board dropped to about 1.6V. I figured it was a short, so I checked the motherboard and sanded it down a bit. I tested continuity and the 1.15V line was showing continuity. However I read before that the 1 and 1.15V lines can sometimes show continuity because the resistance is so low. Can someone check my resistances to see if they're normal?

3.3V: 410ohm
1.15V: 40.5ohm
1V: 58.6ohm

 

[BocuD]

Finished a good amount of casework but then I ran into some wiring problems. I had wired up my regulators and they all output good voltages, but when I wired up the regs to the Wii, the input voltage on the whole Vout line from my charging board dropped to about 1.6V. I figured it was a short, so I checked the motherboard and sanded it down a bit. I tested continuity and the 1.15V line was showing continuity. However I read before that the 1 and 1.15V lines can sometimes show continuity because the resistance is so low. Can someone check my resistances to see if they're normal?

3.3V: 410ohm
1.15V: 40.5ohm
1V: 58.6ohm

They should be fine. Yeah its normal if the multimeter beeps on some lines, even though they are not actually shorted. Some multimeters already beep at like 50 Ω..

 

[z4ch4ry5]

Life, uh...finds a way.