Worklog My first ever build: the ashida
- Thread starter Bunnizer
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AFE123
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- Portables
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BitBuilt Manuals
Those caps are not required. They are used for video filtration
Bunnizer
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- Mar 15, 2023
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thank you so much you saved my sanity. I was about to freak out
Yeah as long as you get good resistance values and that damage to the board isn't causing any shorts you will be fine. Some people cut that part of the board off since it isn't needed if you're doing digital audio/VGA video.
Example of a more trimmed board and link to their worklog:
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/ashida-wavebird-worklog.4589/
Example of a more trimmed board and link to their worklog:
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/ashida-wavebird-worklog.4589/
Bunnizer
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Thanks i am using vga output so i might trim that part offYeah as long as you get good resistance values and that damage to the board isn't causing any shorts you will be fine. Some people cut that part of the board off since it isn't needed if you're doing digital audio/VGA video.
Example of a more trimmed board and link to their worklog:
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/ashida-wavebird-worklog.4589/
Honestly as long as you're using leaded solder you're going to want to focus on using a high quality flux. Flux is the magic sauce with soldering. Personally I've been using This and LOVE it. Made soldering the AVE chip and vias much easier.
As for tips for that iron.. I'm not sure if they make tips fine enough for that kind of iron. That iron is more geared towards much larger jobs like glass work, soldering automotive harnesses, etc. Where temperature control isn't as important.
I'd recommend getting a temperature controlled iron. Or temp controlled iron/hot air station. Staying within 650-700F is very crucial for this level of SMD soldering. I have been using This with great success and it easily removes the U10 chip for the U10 relocation.
As for tips for that iron.. I'm not sure if they make tips fine enough for that kind of iron. That iron is more geared towards much larger jobs like glass work, soldering automotive harnesses, etc. Where temperature control isn't as important.
I'd recommend getting a temperature controlled iron. Or temp controlled iron/hot air station. Staying within 650-700F is very crucial for this level of SMD soldering. I have been using This with great success and it easily removes the U10 chip for the U10 relocation.
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Retro's flux is a good one. If you live in the US, you can also use pretty much any no-clean flux by the brand Kester. For your iron, I'd replace it if you can. A genuine Pinecil soldering iron is a great option, and has one of if not THE best price to performance ratios of any soldering iron available
Bunnizer
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Ok i looked around and I found some solder and a iron that I want to run by y'all before I pull the trigger on them. Soldering Iron. Kester Solder. Also I have a pretty crappy multimeter I was looking at getting this one. Let me know what y'all think
That all looks good. You'll need a power supply for the Pinecil tho, it doesn't come with one. You can use any USB-C compliant PD power supply that can supply at least 65w, or you can use a 24v 3A DC barrel jack supply.
You could also buy the Pinecil and a power supply from Pine64 directly.
Looks good
That looks okay