Ashida Wii Portable

anyone able to design one of these for some one with limited function in hands

as myself have limited function in left hand and have to use stylus on right hand to push buttons

looks like good thing to try build but past my limitations as of 5 years ago can anyone help me try solve this problem
 
I'm just wondering what the function/build differences are when using a RVL-PMS-Lite over an RVL-PMS-2, I can see that it excludes the 1.8v regulator and the fuel gauge, but I don't really understand what that changes for functionality/wiring.
 
hyrule13 said:
I'm just wondering what the function/build differences are when using a RVL-PMS-Lite over an RVL-PMS-2, I can see that it excludes the 1.8v regulator and the fuel gauge, but I don't really understand what that changes for functionality/wiring.
Click to expand...
Aside from the Lite needing to be fed 1.8v from the Wii to run its logic, functionally they do the same job and have the same footprint. The Lite is just a measure to allow for more units to be available during the parts shortage. The Lite does everything the 2 does, just in a slightly more basic fashion. Aside from the fuel gauge being replaced with a voltage monitoring circuit, it's just as smart as the PMS-2 and has the same RVL-HUD and RVL-AMP functionality. As far as wiring differences, there really aren't any aside from the aforementioned 1.8v supply wire due to the Lite having the same footprint as the PMS-2.
 
Do I need any wires as well or any electric tape for making an Ashida portable Wii? If so, then what should I use?
 
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Crimson Crusader#1480 said:
Do I need any wires as well or any electric tape for making an Ashida portable Wii? If so, then what should I use?
Click to expand...
You will need 22AWG stranded wire for power connections, and enamelled 30-38AWG magnet wire for data lines. I don't know if you need electrical tape, but I would assume not
 
Hey All. I'm looking to build an Ashida. I've read through everything in Wesk's original post and I've already bought most of the parts listed in the BOM. I'm no stranger to electronics projects, but I'm completely new to custom shells. I don't have a 3d printer, so I'm planning on using PCBway. I understand how to upload the files (no issues there), but I don't know what material to use other than 'resin', and I can't figure out how to get the color I'm looking for (GameCube Purple).

Does anyone have recommendations for a quality resin material?
And how do I get the classic GameCube Purple?

Any help is very appreciated! And if I just missed this info somewhere, apologies in advance.
 
Cleetus_Buckwalter said:
Hey All. I'm looking to build an Ashida. I've read through everything in Wesk's original post and I've already bought most of the parts listed in the BOM. I'm no stranger to electronics projects, but I'm completely new to custom shells. I don't have a 3d printer, so I'm planning on using PCBway. I understand how to upload the files (no issues there), but I don't know what material to use other than 'resin', and I can't figure out how to get the color I'm looking for (GameCube Purple).

Does anyone have recommendations for a quality resin material?
And how do I get the classic GameCube Purple?

Any help is very appreciated! And if I just missed this info somewhere, apologies in advance.
Click to expand...
SLS in Nylon PA12 is the best I believe. Resin prints are brittle and often experience failure when trying to screw the case together. SLS melts plastic dust with a laser to create basically a solid plastic mass almost as strong as injection moulded parts, but the tech is relatively industrial still and the prints cost a little bit more. If you get it done in the white nylon, you can either dye the print indigo yourself in a bucket, use PCBWay's print painting service if they have a suitable colour, or spray-paint it yourself.

Sadly I don't know the name of the paint that people use for the Gamecube Indigo look, Wesk or some other good Samaritan will have to tell us that
 
Stitches said:
SLS in Nylon PA12 is the best I believe. Resin prints are brittle and often experience failure when trying to screw the case together. SLS melts plastic dust with a laser to create basically a solid plastic mass almost as strong as injection moulded parts, but the tech is relatively industrial still and the prints cost a little bit more. If you get it done in the white nylon, you can either dye the print indigo yourself in a bucket, use PCBWay's print painting service if they have a suitable colour, or spray-paint it yourself.

Sadly I don't know the name of the paint that people use for the Gamecube Indigo look, Wesk or some other good Samaritan will have to tell us that
Click to expand...

The color is Pantone 7673C, so if you can find a paint online that has that color, great, if not, a local paint shop can mix the color for you usually.

If you do end up going with the paint route, make sure to use 2K clear coat after, or else the paint will get very quickly destroyed by your hand's oils. 2K automotive clear coat holds up better to that than most other clear coats, and I believe comes in matte & glossy finishes.
 
Stitches said:
SLS in Nylon PA12 is the best I believe. Resin prints are brittle and often experience failure when trying to screw the case together. SLS melts plastic dust with a laser to create basically a solid plastic mass almost as strong as injection moulded parts, but the tech is relatively industrial still and the prints cost a little bit more. If you get it done in the white nylon, you can either dye the print indigo yourself in a bucket, use PCBWay's print painting service if they have a suitable colour, or spray-paint it yourself.

Sadly I don't know the name of the paint that people use for the Gamecube Indigo look, Wesk or some other good Samaritan will have to tell us that
Click to expand...
Thanks! This is great information. I'll look more into SLS. Very appreciated!

Y2K said:
The color is Pantone 7673C, so if you can find a paint online that has that color, great, if not, a local paint shop can mix the color for you usually.

If you do end up going with the paint route, make sure to use 2K clear coat after, or else the paint will get very quickly destroyed by your hand's oils. 2K automotive clear coat holds up better to that than most other clear coats, and I believe comes in matte & glossy finishes.
Click to expand...
Perfect. Thanks for the color code! I wanna make sure this project comes out looking nice and getting the right color is a huge help.
 
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Just so I know, where would be the best place to find Wii games, and how can I add the games after making the system? Is it through the type-c port?
 
Dump them before you trim the Wii. We don't support piracy. If you connect the usb c port while the portable is turned off and it will appear as a usb stick. IIRC you can even connect it to Wii and dump it instantly onto the Portable.
 
Crimson Crusader#1480 said:
Alright and how do I dump the games on? Will the usb function as a SD card for the ashida?
Click to expand...
You will use the PMS PD 2, it will have a place to plug in a flash drive which will sit internally inside the Ashida, and you use the USB C port to upload your games. RV loader is the software that makes this work. There are more instructions and FAQs about RV loader here.

**edit** What you are looking for I believe would be this answer:

Q - Where can I download GC/Wii games?
A - We don't discuss piracy here. Dump your own games using CleanRIP.
 
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Just so I know before I do the deed, I need to make sure if CleanRIP will do anything bad to my game after I use cleanRIP, like render it unplayable after using it. Will anything like that happen if I use it?
 
Crimson Crusader#1480 said:
Just so I know before I do the deed, I need to make sure if CleanRIP will do anything bad to my game after I use cleanRIP, like render it unplayable after using it. Will anything like that happen if I use it?
Click to expand...
Your game will be yeeted into the shadow realm and cease to exist within our plane of existence..........

Or it'll just keep working like it has been...you'll just have to find out.
 
Crimson Crusader#1480 said:
Just so I know before I do the deed, I need to make sure if CleanRIP will do anything bad to my game after I use cleanRIP, like render it unplayable after using it. Will anything like that happen if I use it?
Click to expand...
As much as I want to play along with Wesk, no, your disc won't be damaged in any way. The program just reads the data from the disc and saves it to an iso file
 
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Alright just so I have a good idea on how to use CleanRip, what would be recommended for dumping Wii Games? Like when it asks for dual layer, chunk size and new device per chunk.
 
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