Worklog Xii-Boy Pocket (V2 "Plus") by Xenii

[Luigid]

hello guys, small update after a few months. one of the two analogs died with dignity (lol) since as if on purpose I'm playing starfox adventure... there is a specific level where you have to keep the cursor inside the green bar with the left analog... with the current analog of the previous photos it is practically impossible being very sensitive and at the slightest movement you become defeated starting the level again.... accepting that by now the analog was ko (also inverted with the left...) also trying sensitivity calibrations and other things it was still very difficult to overcome that level, so I bought these:
Joystick Hall Effect

they are much more stable and less sensitive, after only 4-5 attempts I managed to pass the level without too much effort... so actually at least as a first effect I recommend them if someone has to create his own laptop or repair his switch

 

[Xenii]

Cool! That’s weird those didn’t work for me As soon as I turned the portable off and on again, left stick was going crazy. Normal sticks don’t do that for some reason

 

[Luigid]

Cool! That’s weird those didn’t work for me As soon as I turned the portable off and on again, left stick was going crazy. Normal sticks don’t do that for some reason

I noticed that unfortunately it happens when the batteries are almost at 0% probably the voltage reaches critical levels and the controller no longer works correctly... when I can I have a good gaming session but they definitely seem far superior!

 

[Xenii]

Yeah I had to reset GC+ and calibrate the sticks every time I wanted to play.
Hmm I used a GameCube controller cable, so I don’t think it was a battery issue or something. Even if I disconnected the left stick and plugging back in it was going crazy the exact same way. I don’t know why only the left stick did that. Even if I swapped with the C stick it didn’t work better

 

[Luigid]

Yeah I had to reset GC+ and calibrate the sticks every time I wanted to play.
Hmm I used a GameCube controller cable, so I don’t think it was a battery issue or something. Even if I disconnected the left stick and plugging back in it was going crazy the exact same way. I don’t know why only the left stick did that. Even if I swapped with the C stick it didn’t work better

yes it's quite strange it happened the same

 

[Luigid]

Hi guys, here are a few updates on the modifications (I hope the post isn't too old to be updated) lol:

• A new PMS—a variant of the PS2 "bestiolino" for the Wii—following the same logic; it simply lacks the second regulator for the 5V and 2.5V rails. While it could have been even smaller, the goal was a 1:1 match with Gman's PMS1 for easy installation (I messed up the holes—they're too wide, even though I positioned the PMS1 virtually on the board :/)

• While testing it, I got tripped up by a cold solder joint on the 3.3V line on the motherboard side and ended up corrupting the NAND... so, new board, here we go again—but with the aim of making improvements.

1. Board heavily trimmed on the video side, with the original audio encoder and DAC removed.
2. eliminated the need for the 5v rail for the microsd, powered directly at 3.3v
3. The IC that managed USB-C PD has also been removed; everything is now handled by the new pms itself.
4. Switched from a single triple-LED unit to four individual LEDs for the charge status (red 25%– orange 50% – green 75% – green 100%).
5. CPU + GPU delidding (It's not really recommended, as the situation is more delicate compared to the PS3.)
6. I used the original fan instead of the Slim one, but I admit it's quite noisy.
7. The new single-button ignition has been retained so as not to compromise the aesthetics.
8. Modify the chassis and motherboard mounting points using brass inserts to avoid repeatedly damaging the plastic.
9. "finally" smd eeprom gcvideo

GC+ / GCVideo issue partially resolved

@Xenii When he sees this photo

Joking aside, moving on: single-button power-on board, a small MOSFET swap from AO4406 to AO6404 (the same ones used in the PMS; they work at under 3V and have lower internal resistance).

on the verge of - during test :

Work finished (I hope):

Results:

• Battery life went from exactly 2 hours (playing *Twilight Princess* on the main menu) to about 2 hours and 45 minutes (with a slight undervolt to around 0.96V and 1.07V); however, I had already confirmed an efficiency gain of over 10% compared to the old TLV regulators during PS2 testing.
• Delidding the console made it run much cooler and feel less hot in the hands.

• A small aesthetic touch featuring a metal grille on the intake and exhaust vents.

"Problems":

1. 
   This PMS appears to be limited to around 1.5 A (or slightly more), which corresponds to roughly 10–15 W at 9 V. It is worth noting that part of the issue stems from the fuse located between the battery and the PMS—though I appreciate its presence for now, given that the system is still in the testing phase. Consequently, fully charging the 6800 mAh battery takes between three and a half and three and three-quarter hours. During charging, if the temperature rises too high, the power is throttled to 5 W; this also affects charging time, although it happened only twice over the course of nearly four hours.
2. I would also like to sort out the analog side of things; upon review, the issue isn't just on my end, nor did it start only after these modifications.
3. Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are fine, but—no matter how many times I’ve swapped the card—the Wi-Fi is detected but fails to find any networks (which I’d say is pretty useless by 2027...Yeah, I know it's only 2.4GHz.).