Question LMAOv2-ish+AV - four boards not booting w/ glitchy screen

[Kowabungus]

I am in desperate need of assistance, have been troubleshooting this for like 20 hours straight now lol.
Hopefully it could help others who stumble upon the thread if we're able to solve it.

So here's the deal - this is a custom trim for a project I've been working on. Pretty LMAOv2-like trim with the exception of keeping the chunk with the AV port. All four boards worked prior to trimming w/ nands relocated. Out of 20+ trims of various other types, these are the only ones that I've had this issue on, so assuming something is in-common between them - They all display this exact screen:

Edges sanded up to 1500grit. Resistances all checked out fine post-trim. Using PSU-Plus boards for power (also tried thundervolt), all rails checked out fine with and without load.

U10 output measures between 3.10-3.15v on all four boards (so maybe that's the issue? but I've replaced the U10s over a dozen times now, there's gotta be no way my whole pile of them is broken). Thundervolt U10 emulation also did not change anything. Tried running an extra 3v3 wire directly to U10 input as well since the trim cuts in close on that area, still nothin.
After talking with Yveltal, the wii should still pop out of reset mode >3v on the U10 though. Nothing different happens after disconnecting U10 completely, or alternating between GND and 3V3. Also tried all sorts of routing of the U10 wire incase there was interference or something.

All boards are region swapped NTSC-J to NTSC-U, RVloader installed w/ nowifi and without applying VGA patch (if that makes a difference). Verified boots into RVloader on all prior to trimming.
Checked out the compendium with my trim outline, anything that I'm missing or needing to be reconnected maybe? I still have the video caps installed and have not relocated 5v. Is that needed since I kept that part of the board? Figured composite signal would still output regardless.

Plz helppp meee I really appreciate it!

 

[d3z0rian]

Check you have 3.3v in the point circled, according to your trimming outline that point needs to be reconnected, to power U10.

Also I would solder a 1K Ohm resistor in nandFlex R1.

Hope this helps.

 

[Kowabungus]

Check you have 3.3v in the point circled, according to your trimming outline that point needs to be reconnected, to power U10.
View attachment 44586

Also I would solder a 1K Ohm resistor in nandFlex R1.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply!
All my board have still got 3v3 continuity to U10’s input trace, and have previously tried running an extra wire without success unfortunately

The resistor I believe serves as relocation for R71 directly under the big 3v3 cap on the Wii, which my trims still have intact. Adding another won’t hurt though I suppose incase it helps the signal path at all possibly

I suspect some sort of power issue in general, so maybe ill try doubling up the power and gnd to the nand

 

[Stitches]

Wiis can just die without rhyme or reason sometimes, but it is odd that both have the same issue. There must be something very specific that isn't immediately visually obvious.

Have you checked that the U10's 3 GND legs have good connection to GND? Sometimes that fails.
Also it is worth probing the AVE to check that it is properly recieving 3.3v for power and 1.8v for logic reference. You could even do the old 6 layer 1.8v reconnect wire just in case the internal 1.8v rail developed a fault.

 

[Kowabungus]

Wiis can just die without rhyme or reason sometimes, but it is odd that both have the same issue. There must be something very specific that isn't immediately visually obvious.

Have you checked that the U10's 3 GND legs have good connection to GND? Sometimes that fails.
Also it is worth probing the AVE to check that it is properly recieving 3.3v for power and 1.8v for logic reference. You could even do the old 6 layer 1.8v reconnect wire just in case the internal 1.8v rail developed a fault.

Yeah, also tried a wireless U10 on one of them and still got the same screen.
If I leave it on the TV long enough it has kind of like a small brightness surge and dims back down every so often, the black bar rolls from top to bottom, and diagonal lines move across. Really weird, definitely seems power-y or video related

Almost wondering if maybe there's a ground or voltage somewhere that's connected enough to get a continuity beep, but not for a boot. I've been probing all over the place and can't really find anything, may honestly take one of the boards and go crazy with wires between all the larger voltage planes similar to the 6layer 1v8 reconnect you mentioned.

I've yet to ever kill a nand so it'd be crazy if I somehow managed to slime out all 4 of these ones in one go lol
Charging up some batteries and gonna try and test one of them with a PMS instead to see if I get any luck!