Solved U10 Relocation (Before Trim) Problem

[Legend]

Hey Guys,

So I picked up a 4-layer board this morning and installed Portablize Mii with no troubles, and ordered a RVL-PSU for now until I decide to get the PMS (actually I plan on doing the G-Boy before doing my own), so I decided to relocate bluetooth and U10 before trimming.

Bluetooth was fine, but U10 was giving me a bit of trouble. I had a hard time using hot air at 280* C to get the U10 off, so I used a combination of hot air and the "flooding" technique with my iron and it came off pretty good. I cut the trace, got it back on alright, and connected it to the GPU pin using 34awg magnet wire.

When I went to boot, it just gave me a red light, so the first thing I did was disconnect bluetooth and reconnect it normally, then reinspect my U10 wiring and nothing looked wrong. I also inspected the board for any solder blobs that may have flown off during the removal of the transistors, but found nothing.

So I removed U10 (with a lot less trouble lol) and checked the trace cut. I put U10 back on, then wired it to the GPU pin again, but temporarily using my 30awg striveday wire. The light comes up as almost an orange, but still no boot.

im pretty confident in my soldering and wiring so im thinking I just messed up U10 while removing and will have to use U9, but any ideas would be great. (Bigger wire does not look very good in picture but its solidly connected.)

 

[jefflongo]

You must short the 3 pins on the one side of U10. BTW, you really should switch out that insulated wire for magnet wire.

 

[Legend]

I originally had the 3 pins bridged and U10 connected with magnet wire, but was still getting no boots.. ill try again with the magnet and bridged pins, but if that doesnt work I may just try U9 but more carefully as I think its just U10 thats having problems

 

[jefflongo]

I originally had the 3 pins bridged and U10 connected with magnet wire, but was still getting no boots.. ill try again with the magnet and bridged pins, but if that doesnt work I may just try U9 but more carefully as I think its just U10 thats having problems

No point in swapping it out if you haven't confirmed that it doesn't work yet.
- Test the input voltage and output voltage, they should both be 3.3v
- Test that the 3-pin blob is continuous with ground
- Test that the trace is cut (there is a via you can test continuity with if you trace it back)

If all of those fail then you may have damaged the component. BTW, 280C is pretty low for hot air, I would use like 350C instead.

 

[Legend]

So I bridged the 3 pins last night and left it alone, but when I plugged it in this morning it would boot for a second, then go right back to the orange light.. I was testing the voltages when it was turned on for those few seconds and I was getting 3.3v. I had already tested for continuity on my trace cut and was good.

And Id use 350C to remove the U5 but anything higher than 280C and your risking damaging components, especially when taking off U10 (hence why I used hot air and my iron)

Regardless, Im gonna do some more tests to determine whether its just the U10 or not and go from there, Thank you for the advice!.. Im just a little disappointed in myself lol, cuz I thought those first relocations would be a breeze LOL


MERGE DOUBLE POST

I redid it with the magnet wire and its working now.. I just dont understand why it wouldnt work the first time as everything was wired the same.. either way Im not complaining, thanks again for the advice Jeff!!

 

[Stitches]

And Id use 350C to remove the U5 but anything higher than 280C and your risking damaging components, especially when taking off U10 (hence why I used hot air and my iron)

Using less heat is actually more damaging to the component because you end up applying the heat for way longer. It's better to blast the heat and get it done quickly, rather than draw it out.

 

[Legend]

Using less heat is actually more damaging to the component because you end up applying the heat for way longer. It's better to blast the heat and get it done quickly, rather than draw it out.

It depends on what your working on. Ive worked on many different things other than the Wii and have had no trouble with 280C.. the Wii and its shitty factory lead free solder are particularly stubborn so i would go 350C, but if you flood with a little bit of good leaded solder, you can achieve desoldering nicely at 280C

Im used to working with a lot of QFN Packages etc. and thats what works for me.. A little transistor like U10 may be able to take more, but not a XC2C64A IC for example