Worklog Lockdown 64

[Akira]

It seems when I just turn it on, its more sensitive. When its has been running for 5 minutes, it won't crap out.
So maybe a bad old capacitor on the board itself?



I will try to add everything into a test case and do some more heat testing.



I also read people using RCA shielded cable for everything. Power and audio/video

There is a little hiss on the audio line with a pam8803 amp board i am trying

Thanks for your time and input!

 

[Gman]

if it wasnt having this experience before I think it is most certainly due to the stability of the 48Mhz clock. The oscillators have a short limit to how far you can relocate them before they stop working well

 

[Akira]

Maybe relocating U7 then. and soldering the X1 directly to it.

 

[Akira]

1 FSO/5: Clock output. FSO divided by 5
2 GND: Ground
3 FSO: Rambus clock output. Rambus interface level.
4 Vdd: Power supply
5 OSCOUT: Crystal pin
6 OSCIN: Crystal pin
7 FSEL: Frequency select pin (High:FS0=17*4*FSC,
Low:FS0=14*4*FSC). Toggling of FSEL will reset the counter in the FEEDBACK DIVIDER.
8 FSC: Clock output. Crystal frequency divided by 4.


Pin 3 is Not connected
Pin 7 goes to a trace that has been cut and not needed
Pin 8 goes to a testpoint only

Should be doable and hopefully stable.
I need the space below the X1, so must be relocated.

All the above for a 1996 model PAL

 

[Akira]

Ok I found a solution, but not proud of it. Never ask me what i did

 

[Gman]

Pin7 is a delayed 3.3v signal to several components and is needed to be relocated

 

[Akira]

Pin7 is a delayed 3.3v signal to several components and is needed to be relocated

Really? I traced it a few times now, it goes no where after the trim everybody does. This is on a PAL with a DENC NUS 1996 board.

 

[Gman]

Really? I traced it a few times now, it goes no where after the trim everybody does. This is on a PAL with a DENC NUS 1996 board.

Yes it connects between Pin7 of both clock generators and PIF pin8. Maybe this is source of instability?

 

[Akira]

Here are 2 pics of a test board i have, this is all the pin 7 does.

 

[Gman]

Ah I see. I believe on PAL this will be unconnected for frequency 50hz video. See on JP1, if this is jumpered, it will connect both Pin7s and set in 60hz mode. My mistake.

 

[Akira]

Happy that its cleared up.

I see you use a joystick for c buttons on your small n64. Any pro's or con's?

 

[Gman]

Happy that its cleared up.

I see you use a joystick for c buttons on your small n64. Any pro's or con's?

It feels more natural for the shooter games that use the C buttons for movement. Also it saves some space on the case. For games like OOT it is not so bad to use either. I think its a great solution.

 

[Akira]

Update on this project



- Replaced all the capacitors with new ones

- Made custom heat sinks to make just that little more space

- Heat tested the system in the back half of the system, closed all the holes and let it run for 5 hours, without a single crash

- Optimized the space for the batteries.

- Ordered N64 Gmans digital audio amp from pcbway, ordered all the parts for it, and a programmer

- Created 1 - 2 switch snap on

- Removed all the paint from the old back piece, going to re-use it, took ages from 5-year-old paint.

- Remade the front piece and frankencased parts in it

- Decided on the color scheme, and ordered paint and parts

- First layer of prime...



Have a nice weekend

 

[Akira]

Little more work done. Thanks to Gman for his schematic , i got the n64 memory expansion pack wired up directly to the mini64 board.

The chip is replaced with the new Fram, so no need for a battery backup.

 

[Akira]

The two most powerful warriors are patience and time...



But i finished creating 5 board of 64 Amp.



- Finding all the parts, some were only available from some Chinese eBay seller..

- Soldering them up by hand..

- Making a programming cable for that insane small pin header on the board..

- Asking Gman a lot of questions..



All working, all tested!

 

[fibbef]

It's really fun watching you work, Akira. And hooray for reviving old projects!
I peeked in on this thread specifically because I wanted to see what you used for a controller solution. 3rd party controllers haven't been working well for me and that's what really put my own 64p project on hold. I keep reminding myself that RDC has those mini controller boards, but I was hoping we'd see some controller emulation using a teensy or something like that.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing this come together. That DMG shell looks amazing!

 

[Akira]

Thanks Fibbef! I actually finished painting this week. And 2 layers of clear coat has cured for 2 days now. I started installing some more parts.

I wanted it to match the original DMG grey color.

 

[StonedEdge]

Hot damn this is a blast from the past. Really enjoying this worklog... seeing you push the board to its limits is exciting stuff!

 

[Akira]

Little setback, i tried one of those ali express front lens glass with small borders. they are 5.2mm tall
the space i got is 5.15mm, and not counting in paint/clear coat.

i measured a ali express replacement dmg shell, and they have a opening of 5.2mm....

I need to remove all the paint from front piece, make more space and repaint it..

These glass things are a little larger then stock...

 

[Emetsys]

I don't know much about glass, but if it is not tempered, could'nt you grind it?