Guide LMAOv2 and NAND relocation "Guide"

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ShockSlayer

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With the surge of completed LMAO trims, I'm releasing some of my notes from my personal compendium.

If you're new to Wii portablizing or don't have finely developed soldering skill, you may want to skip this relocation, as it's a sharp increase in difficulty compared to the other relocations, for a very minimal gain in motherboard profile.

Removing the NAND, LDO, and the supporting caps and resistors before trimming is highly recommended. Tape them to a sheet of paper and write down the matching silkscreen text, so you know exactly what's what.

We've got 3 colored lines here that represent 3 different trims:

Pink - OMGWTF:
This is the standard trim outlined in The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide, and the most popular due to it's relative ease. No NAND rewiring is required.

Yellow
- LMAO:
This trim was developed as a concept, before taking a practical look at defining a shape. Lots of inward cuts make it more difficult, so this is for the more ambitious trimmers. Pay special attention to the right side of the trim, closer inspection will reveal that it intentionally leaves the traces for one side of the NAND intact. This allows careful removal and resoldering to perform a "NAND bend," where the pins are bent downward so that they can be resoldered to the pads.

Blue
- LMAOv2:
This trim is a more developed trim, allowing a broader, bolder outline without inward cuts. This makes it easier to perform, but comes at a cost; wiring both sides of the NAND. This has only been done with the use of breakout boards, and is not recommended to be done by hand. In addition, it keeps the preamp intact.

NOTE: When trimming it is possible to sever the internal 3.3v trace that provides power to our alternate U10 relocation spot. This will prevent the Wii from booting, so always check if this must be reconnected.

Trims:


Moving onto the connections. These are fairly straightforward. Each side of the NAND has different colored numbers. 34 gauge wire works well here. These wires should be as short as possible (and I mean, as short as possible) to avoid issues. In addition, the 3.3v capacitors should be preserved.

If you're performing a NAND bend, you may need to remove the larger capacitor near the heatsink mounting hole. This can be relocated nearby with wire, or to the other side of the board.

3.3v is filled in red, and 1.8v is green.

The LDO will also have to be relocated when performing these trims. It requires the two resistors to set the voltage, these can be reconnected by studying the image below.

Connect a 1.2k resistor between pins 3 and 4, and a 2.7k resistor between pin 4 and ground.

Connections:

 
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Noah

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As someone who recently completed a LMAO trim, seriously listen to this advice:
If you're new to Wii portablizing or don't have finely developed soldering skill, you may want to skip this relocation, as it's a sharp increase in difficulty compared to the other relocations, for a very minimal gain in motherboard profile.
The vias and the NAND pins are very small. The NAND pins are also very fragile. You only get a couple shots at bending the pins before they break off so be sure to be careful!
 

ShockSlayer

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I know the documentation's somewhere on BB, but I'd like to add the values of the LDO resistors to the initial post. Occasionally I've replaced them with some different ones with the same value.
 

Nold

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I know the documentation's somewhere on BB, but I'd like to add the values of the LDO resistors to the initial post. Occasionally I've replaced them with some different ones with the same value.
it's 1.2k from pin 3 to 4 and 2.7k from pin 4 to ground. IIRC

i replaced mine with 470 & 1k. giving 1.84V instead of 1.80V.
Seems to work so far.

//Edit 1: I attached a datasheet of the LDO (Might not be the exact model though!). But it includes the formula to calculate the resistors by yourself. (Vref = 1.25V)
 

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jefflongo

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After attempting the NAND and LDO relocation on an untrimmed board the board no longer turns on. The power LED will flash red for a brief moment when the power connector is plugged in then nothing. There is no voltage on any part of the board, the fuse on the 12v line is in tact, no "popping" noise or anything indicitive of a short when it was first plugged in, there are no shorts on any voltage lines (including 3.3v standby), I tested the LDO separately before connecting it again, and I have tried lifting the output pin on U5. At this point I can't see the issue. I don't think this is a NAND issue but all pins have correct continuity anyway.

I'm wondering if anyone has successfully relocated the LDO on an untrimmed board, because I'm not sure if it's just the stock regs freaking out about the LDO relocation.

Is there anything else I can try or should I just trim the board and hook up custom regs?
 

ShockSlayer

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For future readers, jeff eventually got this working. The NAND/LDO relocation can be performed without trimming, and as a general rule; if you can't make it work on an untrimmed board, trimming won't fix it.
 
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I have a not working omgwtf trim with every component in good state, maybe I should save it for this trim further
 

Stitches

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I have a not working omgwtf trim with every component in good state, maybe I should save it for this trim further
Depending on what's wrong with it, there is a small chance that using it to practice the LMAO trim could resurrect it. It's a very small chance, but it has happened before
 
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Depending on what's wrong with it, there is a small chance that using it to practice the LMAO trim could resurrect it. It's a very small chance, but it has happened before
[I speak spanish, hope you can understand me]
I have 500ohm measuring from 3.3v to GND, every other measuring is closer to the resistance tables on the forum. I’ve checked the board edges with the microscope and the layers aren’t making contact.
I’ve checked every capacitor onboard as well and aren’t shorted
 

Stitches

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500 ohms is low, but it should still be functional. If you want to make a thread in the Wii section and post some photos of the trim, then we can help troubleshoot it.
 
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I’ll continue that project later. I’be found a RVL-CPU40 console for 7$ us
 

StonedEdge

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Can NAND be universal for every version of wii?
No, the NAND is encrypted with its respective console keys and will only work with the CPU it’s paired to. You can rewrite it of course but that’s probably a lot of effort.
 
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No, the NAND is encrypted with its respective console keys and will only work with the CPU it’s paired to. You can rewrite it of course but that’s probably a lot of effort.
NAND pins were broken yesterday, how can I fix it
 

StonedEdge

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NAND pins were broken yesterday, how can I fix it
I'd recommend starting your own thread as this is the wrong place to chat, please make a thread in the Wii subforum. Locking this as it is a guide, not a place to ask questions. Thanks.
 
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