Worklog Blue G-Wii

Stitches

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Just did a recheck on the lines and sure enough they were backwards. :facepalm:

View attachment 27512
Everyone does it once lul, you're one of us now

I'm trying to figure out where the GC+ connects to on the Wii motherboard.

I have the original GC+ and I found the documentation (https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/gc-documentation.695/), but I don't know where the + and - lines go. The document just says 3.3v and GND.
The GC+ needs to be powered, so you need to run a 3.3v wire from the Wii/PMS to the + pad, and run a ground wire from the Wii/PMS to the - pad
 
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Everyone does it once lul, you're one of us now


The GC+ needs to be powered, so you need to run a 3.3v wire from the Wii/PMS to the + pad, and run a ground wire from the Wii/PMS to the - pad
Once the GC+ has power how does it communicate with the wii exactly? Are there data pins that I need to connect to the wii motherboard?
 

Stitches

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Once the GC+ has power how does it communicate with the wii exactly? Are there data pins that I need to connect to the wii motherboard?
The D pin on the GC+ needs to be wired to the controller 1 data line, which is here

The wire doesn't need to be shielded, but don't make it excessively long
 
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The D pin on the GC+ needs to be wired to the controller 1 data line, which is here

The wire doesn't need to be shielded, but don't make it excessively long
Just got done wiring up all the buttons but my sticks both aren't working properly.

The C-Stick will sometimes register but it is stuck to the right. The Joystick won't recognize at all.

I wired up the 3.3v lines on the joysticks to each other. Is that okay or do they need their own 3.3v lines for X and Y?

Edit: I might not have any 3.3v going to the joysticks at all. Where is the best place to get 3.3v from for the joysticks?

Edit #2: It was for sure the 3.3v issue. I connected up 3.3v and both joysticks now work!!!!!

IMG-3255.jpg


IMG-3256.jpg


IMG-3257.jpg
 
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Now that the buttons are in I decided to test out a Gamecube game and the screen went all funky and put the game to the left side for some reason.

Any clue what to do to fix the screen issue?

It is fine when I boot into RVLoader but when I entered the game I got an auto adjust to the weird screen size.

IMG-3258.jpg
 

Stitches

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Now that the buttons are in I decided to test out a Gamecube game and the screen went all funky and put the game to the left side for some reason.

Any clue what to do to fix the screen issue?

It is fine when I boot into RVLoader but when I entered the game I got an auto adjust to the weird screen size.

View attachment 27524
To shift the picture, you'll need to use the screen buttons board. There's a display offset in the OSD settings panel
 
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I am not seeing any power options inside of RVLoader. I was wanting to test my addressable led but I only have 4 options inside of settings.
 

Stitches

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I am not seeing any power options inside of RVLoader. I was wanting to test my addressable led but I only have 4 options inside of settings.
Have you wired SCW and SDW on the PMS to the correct i2c vias on the Wii?
 
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Have you wired SCW and SDW on the PMS to the correct i2c vias on the Wii?
That was the issue SDW wasn't connected properly, but I still cannot get the addressable LED to light up. I've checked to make sure the line are okay and they look good.
 
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I'm getting ready to wire up the audio now. I am not familiar with speakers.

Do they have a polarity on + and - or does it not matter?

I have these speakers https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/soberton-inc/SP-1511S-3/6099101

The datasheet doesn't seem to reference the pins on the back of the speakers for any kind of polarity.

Additional question: If I don't plan on using a headphone jack can I just use the right and left analog audio or should I use the I2S audio?
 

Stitches

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I'm getting ready to wire up the audio now. I am not familiar with speakers.

Do they have a polarity on + and - or does it not matter?

I have these speakers https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/soberton-inc/SP-1511S-3/6099101

The datasheet doesn't seem to reference the pins on the back of the speakers for any kind of polarity.

Additional question: If I don't plan on using a headphone jack can I just use the right and left analog audio or should I use the I2S audio?
No polarity, you just need both terminals to be properly connected. Some people have had an issue where the speaker tabs don't make good contact with the PCB, so if that happens, you can fix it by either bending the contacts out or soldering a wire between the board and the speaker contacts.

i2s audio is higher quality and has less noise, but ultimately it's up to you whether to use it or not. It'll all work the same in the end
 
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No polarity, you just need both terminals to be properly connected. Some people have had an issue where the speaker tabs don't make good contact with the PCB, so if that happens, you can fix it by either bending the contacts out or soldering a wire between the board and the speaker contacts.

i2s audio is higher quality and has less noise, but ultimately it's up to you whether to use it or not. It'll all work the same in the end
Decided to hook up i2s instead.

Does the audio by default set to 0?

I am wanting to test if I got it working but I haven't hooked up my + and - volume buttons yet.
 

Stitches

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I don't know the default volume setting, but you can poke the +- pads with a ground wire to simulate pressing a button to find out
 
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Guys,.... I think I am DONE!!!

I just got audio and screen controls finished up.

The only thing still not working is my addressable LED but I don't think I care about it.

Here is a shot of the inside and working!

IMG-3276.jpg


IMG-3278.jpg
 
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Well after some more testing I am getting weird phantom presses on my R and L buttons. I've checked the lines multiple times and they seem okay. Not sure what the problem is.

I'm a bit worried about them since they are going to be a pain in the ass to work on given their position next to the batteries.

Edit: Got some info from people on discord, I think I need to solder 3.3v to the - leg on the button for L and R instead of ground. I'll try this when I get home and I'll update if it works or not.
 
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