so what do you suggest me to do then?
so what do you suggest me to do then?
Just looking from the picture makes it seem like you just threw the fan on without really attaching it or putting much thought in, but if it's the stock setup, you're fine as is
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It doesn't look screwed down, stock 7900x fan blows air over the heat sink and is the only way to mount on the frame afaik.
This point does turn on the console but doesn't cause a reboot and you can't power down with it by the way.
ahh the screws I see.
Don't worry, I'm gonna screw it down once its finalized. I'm still using the original screw from the PS2.
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Looks like either a dodgy connection somewhere or not enough current getting to the screen.
i just followed this
but instead of 10V electrolytic capacitor, I used 16V electrolytic capacitor because there's no stock of 10v here in electronics stores.
Will that affect it?
but instead of 10V electrolytic capacitor, I used 16V electrolytic capacitor because there's no stock of 10v here in electronics stores.
Will that affect it?
Good timing, I receive my batch of LM1881N yesterday and was going to try to wire one tomorrow.
Do you have both capacitor? First one on the Composite input and the other one on the RSET along with the 680k resitor.
Also don't worry about the the capacitor on the RGB line as they should already be on the board (assuming it was only a basic trim)
And having 16v instead of 10v shouldn't affect the outcome as long as the capacitor voltage is higher then the line.
Do you have both capacitor? First one on the Composite input and the other one on the RSET along with the 680k resitor.
Also don't worry about the the capacitor on the RGB line as they should already be on the board (assuming it was only a basic trim)
And having 16v instead of 10v shouldn't affect the outcome as long as the capacitor voltage is higher then the line.
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As long as it has the same capacity, should be fine. The voltage rating is a Max value i think.
Yes there's two capacitor.
Have you seen the two video that I post above?
I was wondering why it keeps on blinking
Could it be maybe it's because the screen needs 31khz while the PS2 only outputs 15.1 khz on Horizontal sync?
Hard to say, could be a range of things.
Have you double check the connections and tested the screen to see how much current it needs?
What I can do on my side is wire mine tomorrow on the Dalian screen and see if it works.
If it does then it would mean that either the screen or the way it is wire is playing up on your side and if it doesn't the it could be the sync splitter.
Have you double check the connections and tested the screen to see how much current it needs?
What I can do on my side is wire mine tomorrow on the Dalian screen and see if it works.
If it does then it would mean that either the screen or the way it is wire is playing up on your side and if it doesn't the it could be the sync splitter.
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Also, what country is the motherboard? NTSC, PAL, etc?
I'm not sure but it's a 79002
does it mean that you have tried the LM1881N method on your screen and it doesn't work for you?
which means as in totally no video output?
or is it just like mine that keeps on blinking?
That would be an Aus model, so PAL. That's the one I have on my side
Edit: Also you could try to connect the composite line to the screen. If it works it would mean that the screen is not under powered at least. Assuming the screen as a Video port
Edit: Also you could try to connect the composite line to the screen. If it works it would mean that the screen is not under powered at least. Assuming the screen as a Video port
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Try splitting the S-video Y signal on pin 5 of the AV port instead of the composite video signal. The screen might be turning off because it is not syncing.
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The capacitor on the signal input is for coupling to block any DC component of the signal. It's important. It's hard to say what's wrong, could be your soldering or wiring. But in my experiences, if the screen is not compatible with an interlaced signal, it won't display anything at all. I'd recommend just using the sync output from the ps2, you can trace it back to wire it to the vias. This circuit is just over complicating it.
Good News
I made VGA appear twice by poking the two holes based on the picture above, sadly, on the third time, it didn't happen anymore.
I made VGA appear twice by poking the two holes based on the picture above, sadly, on the third time, it didn't happen anymore.
I had a similair issue when hardwiring my psone lcd to my psone console. It had something to do with the wiring ans sync.
Just make sure that whatever you’re using for sync is isolated from the rest and do use the video ground signal that is provided on the plug. There should be one there. Check the AV plug pinout.
Just make sure that whatever you’re using for sync is isolated from the rest and do use the video ground signal that is provided on the plug. There should be one there. Check the AV plug pinout.
I manage to get some time to play with this yesterday and I can replicate the same issue. the screen goes on and loss sync after a few sec and goes back on.
My guess so far is that it could be due to the sync output. Based on the datasheet the LM1881M board output Csync (Hsync / Vsync combined) and Vsync VS the LMH1251 board which output Hsync / Vsync and we already know works.
Will still play with it for the next few days to see if we can get something out of this because it could be a nice alternative to the LMH1251 in term of price and size.
Edit: so this page confirms it
"The circuit have one serious drawback: The HSYNC output of the circuit is not really a HSYNC signal. To be exact the signal which the circuit outputs is TTL level composite sync signal...By adding a little bit more electronics it is possible to make a real HSYNC output by wisely combining composite sync and VSYNC outputs from LM1881 using the following circuit which consits of two AND gates"
So it could work with 2 AND gates to make a H sync from the C sync but could be a bit overkilled for our usage, probably easier to go with a LMH1251 board from one of those PS2/PS3/Wii cable.
My guess so far is that it could be due to the sync output. Based on the datasheet the LM1881M board output Csync (Hsync / Vsync combined) and Vsync VS the LMH1251 board which output Hsync / Vsync and we already know works.
Will still play with it for the next few days to see if we can get something out of this because it could be a nice alternative to the LMH1251 in term of price and size.
Edit: so this page confirms it
"The circuit have one serious drawback: The HSYNC output of the circuit is not really a HSYNC signal. To be exact the signal which the circuit outputs is TTL level composite sync signal...By adding a little bit more electronics it is possible to make a real HSYNC output by wisely combining composite sync and VSYNC outputs from LM1881 using the following circuit which consits of two AND gates"
So it could work with 2 AND gates to make a H sync from the C sync but could be a bit overkilled for our usage, probably easier to go with a LMH1251 board from one of those PS2/PS3/Wii cable.
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Now try the H & V wiring coming from the PS2 Motherboard
