Question Progress: PS2P power management issue

[wrympire]

So, you guys were very helpful the last time I posted.
Happy to report that I've made great progress since then.

1. unrelated, but I made an apex legends rgb brightness adjustable lamp. print size was off but Im satisfied


2. anyways. Made a 2P2S power supply. all batteries are 21700 3.7v batteries. wired in 2P2S. Power manager board is a "2S 7.4V 8.4V 8A Lithium Battery Protection Board BMS PCB Protection board".

type c charger is a "Lithium Battery Multi-Cell 2S 3S 4S Type-C to 8.4V 12.6V 16.8V Step-Up Boost LiPo Polymer Li-Ion Charger 7.4V 11.1V 14.8V" a 4A version.

I get a 7.5~ V output from this system and I use a "5A DC-DC Boost/Buck Converter Logic Module XL6019 Adjustable Voltage Regulator Module, 3-35V to 5-40V Output" component to boost it to 12V and use that as my main rail.

1 parallel line goes to the screen directly as its rated for 12V, the other goes to a buck converter I bought locally and lowered to 8.5V. It IS rated for 5A


Anyways, heres how everything looks:


Problem is that it doesnt STAY on, it stays on until the menu, or the boot screen, depending on if I try again quickly and then shuts off.
So, I'm thinking of adding a capacitor in parallel to the output of the ps2 buck converter out lines. Would that help? what Im guessing happens is that the power draw/amperage of the ps2 is too much and one of the components cant support it completely and shuts off.

Thanks guys.

 

[Luigid]

Hi, if you tell us your final goal we can help you better, do you need to build a portable or do you just want an external battery that will power up your PS2?

 

[wrympire]

Hi, if you tell us your final goal we can help you better, do you need to build a portable or do you just want an external battery that will power up your PS2?

Hi, planning on a portable. This Is just a sanity check before I get into it. disc drive disconnected from board AND I plan to play games off of a usb. screen is 12V. Did some more testing and I suspect the XL6109 is the weakest link due to it dropping voltage and getting hot

 

[Luigid]

Hi, planning on a portable. This Is just a sanity check before I get into it. disc drive disconnected from board AND I plan to play games off of a usb. screen is 12V. Did some more testing and I suspect the XL6109 is the weakest link due to it dropping voltage and getting hot

Ok, that's clearer now. I imagine you'll keep the card like this. If you have the skills to trim it, you can use a PMS to optimize battery life. If you want to leave everything like this, try:

1. at the output of the battery protection circuit you start with the two regulators and not in cascade one after the other
2. LM2596 is a step down and therefore you have to power the PS2 from it, raise the output to 8.5v like the original power supply , the problem is that being a step down at both 7.5v and 8.5v when the battery is discharged a little the voltage will drop, so either you use 3 batteries in series 3s and you have to change your setup, or you put another XL6109
   
3. XL6109 is the step up, power your screen from it with the input always from the battery protection board
4. I tried that charging circuit, it will never charge at 4A, in addition to heating up excessively, I recommend a specific external charger or a power bank module for 3s which is easily available, it has a USB C input and charges even beyond 45W

 

[wrympire]

Ok, that's clearer now. I imagine you'll keep the card like this. If you have the skills to trim it, you can use a PMS to optimize battery life. If you want to leave everything like this, try:

1. at the output of the battery protection circuit you start with the two regulators and not in cascade one after the other
2. LM2596 is a step down and therefore you have to power the PS2 from it, raise the output to 8.5v like the original power supply , the problem is that being a step down at both 7.5v and 8.5v when the battery is discharged a little the voltage will drop, so either you use 3 batteries in series 3s and you have to change your setup, or you put another XL6109
3. XL6109 is the step up, power your screen from it with the input always from the battery protection board
4. I tried that charging circuit, it will never charge at 4A, in addition to heating up excessively, I recommend a specific external charger or a power bank module for 3s which is easily available, it has a USB C input and charges even beyond 45W

View attachment 43588

I see, might just do that. Thank you.