Question U10 Trouble

[YveltalGriffin]

I've consistently broken every U9 and U10 I've desoldered. I read on the trimming guide that it sends a "delayed 3.3V signal" to the via on the back. Has anyone with a sillyscope figured out what kind of delay it is? Is it proprietary or is it something I can replicate somehow with some npns?

 

[cheese]

I've consistently broken every U9 and U10 I've desoldered. I read on the trimming guide that it sends a "delayed 3.3V signal" to the via on the back. Has anyone with a sillyscope figured out what kind of delay it is? Is it proprietary or is it something I can replicate somehow with some npns?

It can be replicated with transistors, but it's easier, cheaper, and smaller with the U9/U10. There is only a minimum time for the delay to be, so it can be much longer than the minimum, the console will just wait until the signal comes before booting. AFAIK it was around 20ms 200ms (my bad, thanks Shank), so just make it wait longer than that and then have it latch to 3.3v.

 

[Noah]

If you plan on doing a MX relocation you can just cut that whole section out and keep the U10 or U9 on the section to save yourself from having to desolder it.

Otherwise, try a heat gun to get it off. Should work just fine.

 

[YveltalGriffin]

It can be replicated with transistors, but it's easier, cheaper, and smaller with the U9/U10. There is only a minimum time for the delay to be, so it can be much longer than the minimum, the console will just wait until the signal comes before booting. AFAIK it was around 20ms, so just make it wait longer than that and then have it latch to 3.3v.

Dude, awesome. I knew you'd have checked all that out with your scope. We should put all these minutiae into the wiki. Thanks a gajillion Cheese.

Noah, I already fried two Wiis' U9s and U10s, so I'll probably just hack a cheap solution at this point.

Edit: I decided to try hooking up a SPST switch to the 3.3V line and the GPU via. When I power up the Wii and LCD, I flip the little switch afterwards, but the Wii doesn't do much. I'm getting a black screen, so I think the boot requirements just aren't getting met. The custom regs seems to be functioning. I'm using stranded 20-gauge for the power lines. Does the U10 function in a way other than a switch?

 

[cheese]

Did you install the nowifi IOSes or rewire the wifi module? Also, make sure you have your USB set up properly. Finally, check all the voltages and then flip the switch (it does act as a switch, switching on the power after the specified time of 200ms).

 

[YveltalGriffin]

Yeah, I got PortablizeMii all set up prior to trimming, including the NoWifi ios. Board layers don't seem to be shorted. I'll check the voltages, and fiddle with the usb. But the delay for the switch can be more than 200ms, right? I hope there's no max timeout thing.

 

[cheese]

But the delay for the switch can be more than 200ms, right?

Yeah, I've let it go for multiple seconds and it still works just fine.

 

[YveltalGriffin]

My troubleshooting techniques are exhausted. The board just puts out an intermittent black screen through composite, and the usb drive just keeps its status light solid instead of flashing like it does when it's booting PortablizeMii. Does the exact same thing whether I flip the U10 switch or not. Time for a new Wii?

 

[cheese]

Try holding reset button to get into priiloader? If you cut it off, wire it as shown in the MX diagram for the trimming guide

 

[YveltalGriffin]

No dice... Exact same behavior. The LCD displays black for a while, then flashes blue like it has no signal, then goes back to black. The LCD worked fine for installing PortablizeMii. Something probably went wrong during the trim.

 

[ShockSlayer]

If I remember correctly you can just connect 3.3v to that pin at any point after all the other voltages are connected to the main board, and that'll cause it to boot. Show us some pics of your board and we may be able to help you figure this out.