PriiMiium V1

[thedrew]

I was itching for a project not too complicated when I came across my old prototype that needed some TLC with a broken shell and many parts removed from it for other projects.

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/priimiium.3699/

Technically just needed a new shell and a new motherboard amongst other small things. I started this project back in 2020 and finished a "prototype" that needed improvements. Tonight, I finished the first build that is about 95% complete, enough to share at least! I have many plans for the future revisions but here is V1, essentially a better prototype until V2.

I wanted to have hall sticks since that is the direction we are going with joysticks and to just keep up with the times. But the star of the show here is to showcase the beautiful new QLED 5" screen, which just came to the market and was the inspiration for rebuilding this bad boy!

Features:
- 5” 800x480 QLED Screen
- Hall Sticks
- Undervolted RVL-PMS 2
- PMS PD
- 8000mah Lipos
- Custom controller boards
- GC+ 2.0
- UAMP
- 3D printed buttons (for now)
- PLA Printed shell in Burnt Titanium (really nice color)
- Probably other things I can't think of since it's late...

Here is the original protoype:

Newly rebuilt:

Pictures don't do this filament justice but gives perfect Dark Samus vibes.
I'll add more/better photos when it's not so late and when fully complete (just needs a few minor tweaks).


To give a better demonstration of the QLED panel, here are some comparison pics with a 4.3" IPS panel (featuring the Aran Mini lol):

Color reproduction is fantastic on the QLED panel with contrast being better as well compared to the IPS.

Sadly, I'm convinced this QLED panel is not IPS, but TFT.
The viewing angle from tilting the screen to look at the screen from the bottom to the top go negative like your standard TFT screen similar to the ZJ050NA screens. But top and sides look good. I think it is still worth it and is kind of like a higher quality TFT screen where the viewing angles are not that bad but not as good at the IPS 5" and 4.3" screens we have access to. I couldn't capture a picture of it but might make a video later to showcase this project.

And of course the current nudez:

 

[supertazon]

Beautiful portable! The screen is incredible! Digging the flat lipos as well.
What’s the battery life like?
How did you undervolt the PMS2 and what settings did you use?
The hall sticks are the ones from Gulikit? I thought they weren’t compatible with GC+2.0.

 

[thedrew]

Thanks! I haven't done a battery drain test yet but hopefully about 4ish hours. Just completed it tonight haha. I just changed some resistor values to change the output voltage. 1v set to 0.92v, 1.15v set to 1.08v, and just left the 3.3v and 1.8v for now. I'm using Retroid Pocket 3 hall sticks since I have confirmed they run off 3.3v.

 

[Stitches]

Damn that boy thin! Where'd you get the lipos for it?

 

[thedrew]

It’s 22.5mm thick, not too bad! That good ol’ AliExpress came through. Bought them a couple years ago and they are the capacity they actually state. They can be found as “124065 lipos”.

 

[Retro95]

Absolutely gorgeous piece there! That filament is spectacular. I really like the clear green you used for the A button. Is that clear PETG?

 

[RegDogg]

OOO I love this! Absolutely amazing looking, can't wait to see more of it

 

[Customledmods]

Dude this is so dope! Great job I also love that filament.

 

[thedrew]

Absolutely gorgeous piece there! That filament is spectacular. I really like the clear green you used for the A button. Is that clear PETG?

The buttons are all PETG actually, you guessed correct. The case itself is PLA.

 

[thedrew]

I finished everything and have some updates along with a quick video.

I couldn’t take the poor viewing angles of the QLED screen since I mentioned it was TFT. So I swapped out the backlight filters to an IPS panel and now it’s perfect.

This opens up ideas to potentially cut the filters and transfer/design a blue led backlight for other screens like the 3.5” panels! In theory though, not confirmed…

Also ran some tests. Was hitting 55C max temp on stock voltages and just 39C max undervolted.

Stock voltages was getting me 2hr 45min run time and haven’t completed a full run undervolted, but theoretically should give me 4hr plus. I’ll update after completing a full run undervolted.

Originally just undervolted the 1.15v and 1V line, but later undervolted all voltage lines. Here’s my current voltage settings:

1.15v @ 1.02v
1v @ 0.92v
3.3v @ 3.07v
1.8v @ 1.45v

I’ve confirmed the RTD2660 boards can have the LDO regs removed and the 3.3v can take 3v directly and the 1.8v can take 1.4v directly and still fully function drawing less power and less heat as well. Maybe could even take less, but did not test that.

In the future, I will be upgrading to a custom driver board using the MST703 LCD driver ic since it uses less than half the power of the RTD chip. Or maybe even RVL-DD.

 

[supertazon]

Incredible build, congrats!
Fingers crossed the DD arrives soonTM

I didn't quite understand what you did to your QLED panel? You mention it was TFT but with what kind of magic did you make it IPS? Here's a diagram I found online, I'm just curious as to how difficult this "change of filter" actually is:

As for undervolting, I'm impressed to see how silent the fan is, that is really cool! However, does it play regular Wii games just as well? I seem to recall there was a drawback to undervolting, but maybe I'm confusing with using Nintendont with GC clocks (underclocking), which did produce some glitches iirc.

 

[RegDogg]

Amazing work drew! You never disappoint with your builds, beautiful as always, can't wait to see more from you in the future!

 

[thedrew]

Incredible build, congrats!
Fingers crossed the DD arrives soonTM

I didn't quite understand what you did to your QLED panel? You mention it was TFT but with what kind of magic did you make it IPS? Here's a diagram I found online, I'm just curious as to how difficult this "change of filter" actually is:
View attachment 30264

As for undervolting, I'm impressed to see how silent the fan is, that is really cool! However, does it play regular Wii games just as well? I seem to recall there was a drawback to undervolting, but maybe I'm confusing with using Nintendont with GC clocks (underclocking), which did produce some glitches iirc.

So, the QLED technology, in this case, is just the blue led backlight with the diffuser layer being a quantum dot film. The panel itself doesn’t do anything fancy, it’s the whole backlight system/quantum dot layer to create the better contrast and vibrant colors. So I just swapped the TFT panel with an IPS one but it didn’t fit right, which you can see the IPS panel in the photo is slightly smaller with wiggle room. So I had to transfer the plastic bracket for the IPS screen as well as the QLED backlight and filters (had to slightly trim the filters to fit) and it worked great!

Wii games have been working just fine from the limited testing I’ve done. But with GC clocks in the future, would extend battery life even more.

Amazing work drew! You never disappoint with your builds, beautiful as always, can't wait to see more from you in the future!

Thanks man!

 

[thedrew]

Battery life test:

- Stock voltages = 2hr 45min run time

- Undervolted = 3hr 52min run time

I ended up changing the 3V line back to 3.3V because sometimes the GC+ wouldn't work on boot and had to power cycle for it to work. I believe the 3.3v is mainly IO on the Wii so makes sense.

During the undervolt battery test, the system crashed 3 times whereas never crashed at stock voltages. Ended up having to up the voltage for the 0.92v line to 0.935 and hasn't crashed since. Each motherboard will vary with undervolting though, so take this with a grain of salt.

 

[RegDogg]

Sounds good, battery life save is really good. Hope everything else goes well!

 

[Wrn_]

I'm using Retroid Pocket 3 hall sticks since I have confirmed they run off 3.3v.

Just double checking I'm on the right track for using halls in my own build: these are the ones you used that work with the 4LT joycon breakouts and GC+2? https://www.goretroid.com/products/...-console-hall-joystick?variant=43844428366048

Also great work with undervolting right on the PMS, very impressive

 

[thedrew]

Thank you, and those are the ones!

 

[thedrew]

Portable took a small fall, about a foot on carpet and broke some screw posts… So rebuilt it in PETG transparent red in hopes of a little more durability and higher heat resistance since I had found the case warped under the PMS2.

Threw in Aurelio’s Direct Drive this time around and installed the “new” switch hall sticks that do indeed work on 3.3v. You can find them here:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqOiHv0

The new hall sticks have a nice little texture to them. You can barely feel it but nice for a change.

 

[Stitches]

The translucent red looks sick as!

 

[Customledmods]

Damn that looks bad af imagine some leds in that enclosure