I was hoping to avoid this; HELP!!

[Labrat46]

Firstly, let me start off by saying I was hoping to avoid the newbie tradition of starting a project that is well documented to then have to ask for help but I am puzzled as to where my issue lies, and how I can go about fixing it.

I am currently undertaking an Ashida build.
3D printed case - check
Softmodded Wii with RVloader working correctly - check

Following this, I have trimmed the Wii, sanded the edges, going through all the sandpaper grits. Removed any components that I cut through during the trim.
Have checked all the resistance values and all match the documented values (the only variation was on the 3.3V line - getting about 16k).

I have then wired up all the voltages to the PMS-2, wired up U10, battery and button.
Checked the continuity on all the lines and checked all wires for shorts (against the ground pads).

I have then wired up a cut up VGA cable to the board and attached ground; added a 18650 battery (charged to 3.56V) and hit the button, but nothing is happening.

What can I now try in attempts to diagnose what the issue may be?

So far I have checked the solder joints, continuity of all lines, added two ground lines as the PMS-2 documentation states, and even relocating the video signal ground to a different point.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated; and more than happy to attach images if this helps?

Cheers,
Labrat

 

[CrazyGadget]

First and foremost, I want to say that you are already on an amazing path with the amount of research you've done, and how you've made sure to do all the intermediary checks and whatnot throughout the build. And welcome to the community!!!

I would highly recommend testing with composite rather than component at first, just because it's a lot simpler to solder. When doing VGA, make sure that you also have the mode pin on the Wii wired to 3v3. If you're doing composite, leave mode floating.

You should also charge up your batteries, 3.5V is on the lower side. Also, make sure you hold the button for the PMS for at least 2 seconds in order for it to power on.

I hope some of this helps!

 

[Labrat46]

Thanks so much; I didn't want to simply jump on here and say "I chopped my Wii and it doesn't work".
There's a ton of info on here and Youtube, just been going through it all to try and figure the issue.

Now; I have mis-written my initial post. I am indeed testing with composite video (not component). The single yellow pin.
I actually tried two ways of hooking it up.

First, I desoldered the AV connector from the Wii board and attached that to the trimmed Wii and then plugged the AV connector in.
(Soldered video to Pin 3 and tried ground on the outer pins, then tried ground on Pin 5)

This obviously didn't work so I then went with a chopped up COMPOSITE cable but still no go.

I knew about holding down the power button but let me charge them bad boys up and give it another whirl.

Thanks so much,

 

[Retro95]

Have you confirmed that you are not experiencing voltage drop on the Wii?

Id measure your voltage rails AT the Wii and make sure everything is within 5 percent of the output power from the PMS. Anything lower and the Wii might not boot.

Also, can we see your wiring? Some high quality photos would be helpful for us to help diagnose your issue.

 

[Labrat46]

Forgive my ignorance on this matter, but how do I test the voltage drop over a line?
Do I add the battery to the holder and then measure the Voltage at two points?

Please see the attached images, if there are any points you need to see better, happy to take some more.

 

[Viilmo]

Forgive my ignorance on this matter, but how do I test the voltage drop over a line?
Do I add the battery to the holder and then measure the Voltage at two points?

Please see the attached images, if there are any points you need to see better, happy to take some more.

You carefully measure the voltage lines with your multimeter while the system is turned on

 

[Retro95]

What viilmo said. Check the voltage wire to ground on the Wii. If anything is lower than 5 percent of what it should be (like 3.3v is actually 3.13 or lower) it can cause issues.

Are you using flux when soldering? Some of those solder joints look cold and others look a little burned. That can cause issues as well.

What temp is your iron set to?

 

[Labrat46]

Ok, results are back from the voltage drop test and I have a different issue, or I may likely be taking the measurements incorrectly.
After adding the battery, I set the multimeter to 20VDC and set the lead lead onto battery+, then test at points on the Wii motherboard.

Every reading I get, is exactly the same as when I test the battery terminal to terminal - 3.62V.

I have tried taking the readings before and after depressing the power button for several seconds.
Have I taken the measurements correctly, or am I having an issue with the PMS-2 turning on?

 

[Labrat46]

Using flux for my soldering yes, and haven't cleaned up some of them (I think you can tell which ones). Should I redo these and see if it helps?
All soldering done at 350c.

 

[Retro95]

Ok, results are back from the voltage drop test and I have a different issue, or I may likely be taking the measurements incorrectly.
After adding the battery, I set the multimeter to 20VDC and set the lead lead onto battery+, then test at points on the Wii motherboard.

Every reading I get, is exactly the same as when I test the battery terminal to terminal - 3.62V.

I have tried taking the readings before and after depressing the power button for several seconds.
Have I taken the measurements correctly, or am I having an issue with the PMS-2 turning on?

Not quite like that, check voltage on the Wii itself. Place your red probe on one of the Wiis voltage points. Like 1.15v or 3.3 for example. Place your black probe on ground on the Wii. Measure the voltage you are actually getting at the Wii, through your wiring. Then compare against what it should be.

 

[Lemoncake]

I'm not going to act like I have a solution or any amount of technical knowledge on the matter, but CrazyGadget mentioned something to me in my worklog about having the wires from my Wii to the PMS being to long. I noticed yours are of quite noticeable length, could that be an issue?

am I having an issue with the PMS-2 turning on?

Also, wiring up a fan to the PMS and then hitting the power button will let you know if it's getting power.

 

[Labrat46]

I'm not going to act like I have a solution or any amount of technical knowledge on the matter, but CrazyGadget mentioned something to me in my worklog about having the wires from my Wii to the PMS being to long. I noticed yours are of quite noticeable length, could that be an issue?

Also, wiring up a fan to the PMS and then hitting the power button will let you know if it's getting power.

Hmm, I didn't think they would be too long, but perhaps I will shorten them and see if this helps.

Also - a fan! A simple solution to test power, thank you.

 

[Labrat46]

Not quite like that, check voltage on the Wii itself. Place your red probe on one of the Wiis voltage points. Like 1.15v or 3.3 for example. Place your black probe on ground on the Wii. Measure the voltage you are actually getting at the Wii, through your wiring. Then compare against what it should be.

Now that makes a LOT more sense. In hindsight, all I was testing is that the power was running through the PMS and not what the voltage drop across a component is.
When I test the board this way, I am getting NO reading at all.
What might that indicate?

Appreciate the walkthrough,

 

[Labrat46]

Also, wiring up a fan to the PMS and then hitting the power button will let you know if it's getting power.

Wired up a fan, added the battery and hit the button for a few seconds - absolutely nothing.
Just to clarify, the fan is the one specified in the Ashida BOM.

 

[Heuic]

DI'd you check what voltages your pms2 is outputting also maybe try powering it on with a switch. I think there's been a problem with that before but I could be wrong

 

[Labrat46]

DI'd you check what voltages your pms2 is outputting also maybe try powering it on with a switch. I think there's been a problem with that before but I could be wrong

I didn't know it could be set up to run with a switch.
Looks like this is the next test!

Cheers!


UPDATE: No luck with a switch either...

 

[Retro95]

Well at this point it seems the issue would be with the wiring or the PMS.

Id recommend de-soldering the wires on the PMS but leave the fan and battery wires soldered. Then clean the PMS with a tooth brush and 99 percent isopropanol alcohol.

Then check all rails against ground for shorts to make sure there isn't anything shorting on the PMS itself.

Then try turning on the unit again and see if the fan spins. If you can get the fan spinning, I'd measure all the rails and make sure every rail is outputting the correct power.

Then power down the unit. Remove the battery. Then reconnect the wires from the Wii to the PMS.

 

[CrashBash]

I didn't know it could be set up to run with a switch.
Looks like this is the next test!

Unless things have changed the PMS2 default behavior is to treat the power button/switch input as a button. If you wire a switch to it you have to flip it on, then off, to mimic a button being pressed. The behavior is configurable in RVLoader, once you get everything booting.

If you're having troubles it may be worth disconnecting all power wires from either the Wii or PMS side and then confirm that your voltage rails on the PMS are as expected. If 3.3V, for example, is reading lower it's possible there's a bridge or something wrong on your PMS. Process of elimination is the way to go.

That said, from a quick glance from your pictures I don't see anything shorting out at that moment but your wires do seem to have quite a bit of exposed metal. Best practice would be to go back and shorten those up. Having exposed wires that could move around in the case during transport/etc could cause to shorts occurring later on (potentially even after closing the case and everything working). Would suck to have your project work and then either stop or something be damaged due to something avoidable.

 

[Labrat46]

Well at this point it seems the issue would be with the wiring or the PMS.

Id recommend de-soldering the wires on the PMS but leave the fan and battery wires soldered. Then clean the PMS with a tooth brush and 99 percent isopropanol alcohol.

Then check all rails against ground for shorts to make sure there isn't anything shorting on the PMS itself.

Then try turning on the unit again and see if the fan spins. If you can get the fan spinning, I'd measure all the rails and make sure every rail is outputting the correct power.

Then power down the unit. Remove the battery. Then reconnect the wires from the Wii to the PMS.

OK, we have made some progress! After disconnecting all the voltage rails and cleaning it up, I tested the PMS and the fan is spinning away.
Add in each line one by one and test the fan after adding each cable.
All good until I add the 1.8V line. Looks like this is the culprit??

Instead of attaching the line to the large 1.8V 'pad', I tried the middle pin just below it but still no luck.
Any ideas what could be causing this?

EDIT: Tried a different wire, and using the 1.8V point above the resistor on the right but still no luck.

 

[Labrat46]

Unless things have changed the PMS2 default behavior is to treat the power button/switch input as a button. If you wire a switch to it you have to flip it on, then off, to mimic a button being pressed. The behavior is configurable in RVLoader, once you get everything booting.

If you're having troubles it may be worth disconnecting all power wires from either the Wii or PMS side and then confirm that your voltage rails on the PMS are as expected. If 3.3V, for example, is reading lower it's possible there's a bridge or something wrong on your PMS. Process of elimination is the way to go.

That said, from a quick glance from your pictures I don't see anything shorting out at that moment but your wires do seem to have quite a bit of exposed metal. Best practice would be to go back and shorten those up. Having exposed wires that could move around in the case during transport/etc could cause to shorts occurring later on (potentially even after closing the case and everything working). Would suck to have your project work and then either stop or something be damaged due to something avoidable.

Appreciate the tip about the wires, I will ensure I get used to trimming them shorter in the future to ensure I dont run into issues later on.
Have just gone through and can confirm that all the rails on the PMS are outputting the correct voltages...