Worklog Ashida First Portable Worklog

[Stitches]

Okay! I've done a lot of progress today! I soldered on the U AMP 2 board along with the GC+2.0. Then I soldered on the stick boxes and shoulder button pots. Lastly I finished up the peripherals on the Ashida boards.

GC+2
View attachment 27231View attachment 27232
Shoulder PotView attachment 27233C-Stick BoxView attachment 27234UAMP-2View attachment 27235View attachment 27236Extra PeripheralsView attachment 27237View attachment 27238View attachment 27239Left Analog Stick BoxView attachment 27240Left Shoulder PotView attachment 27241

I think now I'll move onto the PMS-2 and see if I can turn on the Wii. Any suggestions or help for how to do that with minimal risk of damage?

EDIT: I understand that the PMS has the U10 emulation, and that all the regulators should be in that board as well. WiFi is patched out, along with Bluetooth not being necessary. Then I should be able to connect the screen to the Wii with composite? Even if I have the VGA patch? I unplug and plug it back in correct? Would that be all I'm looking to do?

For the voltage regulator, am I just straight up connecting the PMS 2 to the Wii? And keep what's left of the regulators on the Wii itself?

The PMS handles all the voltage regulation, so you do connect the PMS straight to the Wii yes. Just note that if you've left the 1.8v LDO on the Wii, don't wire the 1.8v supply from the PMS-2 to the Wii.

For the composite video, as long as you haven't connected MODE to 3.3v, composite video will just work like normal. Connecting MODE to 3.3v disables composite and enables VGA. The unplug trick only works with physical component cables and the AV-Out port, due to the cables having an internal short between 3.3v and MODE. Powering the Ashida LCD off or disconnecting and reconnecting the composite line will do nothing

 

[Hexecutioner]

So I wouldn't have to worry about disconnecting or removing the voltage regulators already on the board? Wouldn't that be putting both regulators in parallel? Or are those even regulators?

Is it better to use the PMS and get rid of the 1v8 LDO? Would it be more power efficient? Or is it only saving like a couple minutes of power?

Also I saw you've recommended green stranded 34 AWG wire so that you can have two distinct wires for the screen and USB, I have red, what green wire/brand do you recommend?

Would it be easier to save the VGA for last and just test it with composite?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[Stitches]

So I wouldn't have to worry about disconnecting or removing the voltage regulators already on the board? Wouldn't that be putting both regulators in parallel? Or are those even regulators?

Is it better to use the PMS and get rid of the 1v8 LDO? Would it be more power efficient? Or is it only saving like a couple minutes of power?

Also I saw you've recommended green stranded 34 AWG wire so that you can have two distinct wires for the screen and USB, I have red, what green wire/brand do you recommend?

Would it be easier to save the VGA for last and just test it with composite?

Thanks for all your help!

When you trim the Wii, all regs aside from the 1.8v LDO are removed. Removing the LDO is usually more trouble than it's worth for beginners, and you only get like 10-20 extra minutes of runtime for your effort.

For the green wire, you want solid core enamelled magnet wire. I don't know specific brands, but if you check ebay/amazon you should be able to find magnet wire with red, green, and clear coating.

And yeah testing video with composite is easier