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It's video quality is decent. its obviously not gonna be as good as an AVE-HDMI (which inputs raw gpu digital data instead of the output of the ave), but it's much more convenient than having to solder the AVE-HDMI flex board. It's also considerably cheaper. As for latency, i'm not a smash...

its also worth noting that a sensor bar can work with 5v (you just gotta remove 4 of the IR leds in series to reduce the voltage). as for the pre-amp, i'm not sure since i didnt use it on my micro (i used an analog2hdmi anyway). But yeah the boost converter is likely the better option anyway. GL!

If the issue is caused by the wifi not being relocated, then yeah you can use any Wii WIFI module. Although soldering the wifi lanes is extremely difficult without a microscope/magnifying glass.

these new STLs look Sickkk! I noticed that the HDMI mount doesn't have prebuilt supports, what prusa/slic3r support settings do you recommend? thx!

That indicates a short. Are you sure you're supposed to be shorting all of those pads? I did try once to relocate the smd components from a backwards compatible wii to a family edition and i also got a short and one of the components burnt up (i can't remember which component, i assumed it was a...

I relocated the nand on a 6 layer once, I mostly just used a multimeter to probe continuity with the vias and the nand pads. I never had to relocate any resistor, but there are 2 filtering capacitors that do connect between both sets of 3.3v and gnd pins of the nand.

I really assumed the PCB would look like that, an FR2 (or looks like it) PCB with a large COB in the middle lol. Anyway, it seems like all the button traces have exposed pads to conveniently solder jumpers to. As such as long as you provide the 3.3v to the board and solder the wires to your GC+...

Ah okay, in that case you should theoritically just run wires from the switches (metal dome or tactile or rubber contact?) and connect them to the GC+ or arduino or whatever. As long as the board is supplied power and has it's connection to the switches, then it should function as well.

Not sure what you mean, but you can actually use an Arduino to make a GC controller. https://github.com/NicoHood/Nintendo If you just want a sound effect, you can possibly wire the tactile switch to an Arduino's digital input and have the Arduino play a PCM sample with a piezo. I would also like...

Sorry, for some reason the diagram I saw didn't include HV, probably because it's old. Still, digging into the leadframe is unnecessary as the pins are intact (from what i can see.)

I checked the pinout on the AVE, the pins he bent/knocked off are actually NC or GND pins so there shouldn't be a need to dig into the leadframe.

Paintjob looks sickkk!

This is what I've been thinking for a while. If both NANDs and 3 daughterboards are relocated (and SMC disabled), it seems like just a matter of time until someone trims up to those 2 inductors next to the RAM (or around there). Of course this will be cutting off 2 of the regulators but that...

looks ok, though you should use less solder and more flux on those U10 joints.

https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/wii-u-r-d-thread.3683/

Insane quality for what is basically a madkatz controller. I wonder how it'll feel with quality (T3) joysticks and buttons?

Technically it could. But there are firmware and software limitations which dont allow bluetooth audio streaming. And I'm not aware of any homebrew that allows it (or if it's even possible).

Hello, I was wondering what orientation the female TRRS connectors should go. I know it doesn't really matter as long as I wire the dongles correctly according to the PCB (which I did). I have the large copper prong facing downwards (look at the pic), But what way did you guys end up orienting...

ill be greatly disappointed if this portable doesn't have atleast a bit of Mountain dew green paint on the shell (Jk, hope it goes well!)