Worklog Ashida Worklog (First WII Portable)

[potato__portable]

My 4Layer Tech boards have arrived so I thought i should make a worklog so i can document my build in the near future when i get my others parts. I shall now wait.....

 

[potato__portable]

I have soldered the UAMP to the Ashida pcb, but I have one question. Does it matter if IR and IL solder joints are connected?

 

[potato__portable]

Soldered the GC + 2.0. Are my solder joints looking good?

 

[Viilmo]

View attachment 24069

Soldered the GC + 2.0. Are my solder joints looking good?

Looks okay to me but I would recommend to check if anything is shorted. S and DL may be touching from what I can see

 

[honigbrai]

Does it matter if IR and IL solder joints are connected?

If you use the Wii-Hud mode or the Wii digital mode, It should work fine

 

[potato__portable]

Looks okay to me but I would recommend to check if anything is shorted. S and DL may be touching from what I can see

I double checked them and they are fine and aren’t touching


EDIT:

This may be a silly question, but do i have to desolder these connectors from the driver board?

 

[potato__portable]

Got a new 128 to usb along with 28 and 38 awg wire and also a wire stripper (obviously for the 28 awg wire). I’m going to start testing everything and wiring up the wii.

 

[potato__portable]

I trimmed my Wii and got my resistances, however when looking at the 1v resistance, it seems to be very low. I think this is due to applying too much heat when soldering my rvl ntc. Even though the resistance is very low, should the ntc still be able to run?

 

[potato__portable]

Update: I let the solder on the 1v lines flow for a bit longer and checked the resistances again. Luckily the resistance went from 8 oms on Wednesday to 40 oms today. I got lucky there hopefully my board is fine for now Also my dad bought me some joystick boxes and the 21700 batteries and my digiky and mouser orders came so i populated my Ashida boards.

Picture below ⬇️

 

[potato__portable]

Alot has happened since last post. I got my case and soldered the pms lite and the pms pd. I wired up the battery contacts and then soldered them to b+ and b-. I soldered in the fan as well and it was working fine. The next day i was showing my little sister, but instead of it turning on the 2R2 component on the PMS-LITE started smoking and one of the capacitors popped. If i removed the popped capacitor should the pms be able to supply power to the components now?

 

[CrazyGadget]

Magic smoke is never a good sign. Disconnect the batteries immediately, take picture of the board, and post them here.