If you put the two LEDs close together the wiimote will confuse them as a single point and it won't work. You need them to be far from each other (roughly 10cm).
Worklog Wii motherboard interface PCB / WII Portable (still unnamed)
Oh, ok, I thought the distance had an effect on the sensibility
After fighting the Autodesk cloud system as well as Eagle for about 2h, I finally switched to 2 seperate boards and started blocking out the 3D layout in Fusion360.
The Big red cylinders are 18650 cells and the darker green board in between the mother- and daughterboard is the LCD controller.
Tn the top view you can see on the right side, between mobo and dabo(?), the pth08080's fit in there perfectly
The Big red cylinders are 18650 cells and the darker green board in between the mother- and daughterboard is the LCD controller.
Tn the top view you can see on the right side, between mobo and dabo(?), the pth08080's fit in there perfectly
Damn this project looks dope man!
The Heatsink should be faily enough, if you have a good airflow & fan running at 5v or even 3.3v..
Also let me know how you like blender for 3D design..
The Heatsink should be faily enough, if you have a good airflow & fan running at 5v or even 3.3v..
Also let me know how you like blender for 3D design..
Thanks,
I'm using a Noctua Fan, they make the best fans in the industry. It's the 5V version, and you can feed it a pmw control signal (4pin pc fan) which the internal controller uses to regulate the speed.
Blender is really really awesome. But you have to remember, It's "just" a poligon/surface modelling program. For anything exact, you need something like Fusion360 or Sketchup.
I use blender for more organic or not really exact definable models.
Blender is actually one of my other hobbies, you can find my stuff on instagram: blenderfarm
Great Tip, thanks
Finally the long awaited LCD showed up. Now I can double check the measurements from the datasheet and can find out what's needed to run it.
It's a nice thin 5" 800x400 tft from Eastrising Technology. The controller is also nice and small.
After some quick probing i think I can run it compleatly of 3.3V.
For Testing I quickly had to get my trimmed Wii running, as I didn't have any other A/V component device anymore (A problem I never thought I would have). But after a few secinds of panic, after nothing happened on powerup and the sudden realisation, that i forgot the U10 Wire, everything worked great
Dont worry, the dirt and scratches are only on the protection film. In reality everything is nice and crisp.
It's a nice thin 5" 800x400 tft from Eastrising Technology. The controller is also nice and small.
After some quick probing i think I can run it compleatly of 3.3V.
For Testing I quickly had to get my trimmed Wii running, as I didn't have any other A/V component device anymore (A problem I never thought I would have). But after a few secinds of panic, after nothing happened on powerup and the sudden realisation, that i forgot the U10 Wire, everything worked great
Dont worry, the dirt and scratches are only on the protection film. In reality everything is nice and crisp.
Actually it's 3.3V. The regulator steps it down to 3.3 and I can run it of that
Paul3854
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I've been inputting 5v into that pin for almost a year and never realized it was supposed to be 3.3v
The ic's probably can handle 5v, luckyI've been inputting 5v into that pin for almost a year and never realized it was supposed to be 3.3v
Not all boards are designed the sameI've been inputting 5v into that pin for almost a year and never realized it was supposed to be 3.3v
Paul3854
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I tested by putting 12v into it's normal input and tested that pin, it's definitely 3.3v. Like Remo said the components probably can also take 5v
I would have been surprises, if they made the same controller board with a 5V and a 3.3V regulator
