Worklog Kolenot's Ashida Worklog

[kolenot]

The new speakers finally arrived, but the audio quality is the same
I tried the speakers both without soldering (holding them against the connection pads) it and with soldering it, the soldering process was clean this time, the legs didn't jump off.
Soldering with magnetwire was too annoying since the magnets of the speakers like my soldering iron and I couldn't keep the solder on them and got frustrated.


I guess that screeching issue was that they are maxed out. I would call it normal/a little bit loud volume rather than maxed.

 

[kolenot]

Oh yeah that's what I was referring to. It's a good little pocket. You could put a couple of battery tabs into the print and have that be your easy access CMOS slot instead of using the black one

My only problems now are all audio related and I'm starting to think it's completly software related.
(I understand that the crunching was from the audio being too loud, but I can't seem to be able to limit it)

• These volume values don't do anything
• I still get the stupid HUD on my screen
• When I put the volumes to 0 it's only 0 till I start turning the potentiometer
• The headphones never want to stay on 0
• Even after changing the volume control system, the potentiometer still works

By now I think I've reflowed and rerouted everything related to the audio and I've replaced several cables and nothing changed.
(https://bitbuilt.net/forums/threads/ashida-audio-troubleshooting.5294/ seems to have had a similar issue, but it doesn't seem like it got fixed)

Over all, happy that it works and the audio thing might be normal since I'm using the potentiometer and bc of that it shouldn't be able to be changed in another way.
This doesn't really make the UI user friendly if you show options that you have to both switch in the hardware (u amp solder pads) and software (these options). But it's at least something easy to live with once you know that it's how it works.

But that stupid HUD in the top right corner when playing games (with GC games it stays there, it also looks like GC games are a bit more stable bc it doesn't flicker and just stays on).

Right now I'm hoping it's just a setting I have wrong bc fixing anything related to the U-amp is gonna be annoying with the MX and wifi chips.

 

[Stitches]

I believe you can disconnect SDW/SCW from the U-AMP and that should force disable the HUD. It will also disable RVLoader's ability to see the U-AMP readout, but if the issues are from crosstalk then it may help.

That's about all I can suggest I'm afraid. I've run dry on my knowledge for the 4layertech boards

 

[kolenot]

It did solve the audio bar from not showing up. But the battery percentage is still here. I think what happens is that there is/was an issue with the detection on wether the audio of the settings had to be used or the potentiometer.

I'm 90% certain it has something to do with the RVL-DD HUD itself. I tried to change the brightness and then that bar was back, but with the brightness icon. Can I somehow disable this hud in general? I'm probably gonna keep the wires disconnected from the u-amp screen.
Downgrading to RVLoader 2.0 might also solve it. (since I've read that 2.1 isn't without bugs)

Is it a good idea to ask Aurelio about this? He might know more when/how it gets triggered and how to fix it.

 

[kolenot]

Already a big thanks for the support and making me understand everything a bit more. Both to you and Jamespi

 

[kolenot]

OMG, this gonna be so dumb and needs to be documented if what I think is true.
I charged the batteries a bit and I believe bc the % is 10% or above, that it's now gone and that the hud will stay on if the batteries are under 10%.
Tried both GC and wii games and with the GC I tried adjusting the brightness again and it went away after a second or 2 (as it should).

edit: Looks like that is the case, I played a bit and at 9% it popped up again, charged it, number got blue and the HUD went away
I still get to see it for a second when booting up a game, but till now it always was gone after and stayed that way.

I also noticed that the n64 virtual console games are positioned a bit low. Probably an rvl-dd issue. Is it already known and how hard would it be to add the gc options to the virtual console?
Maybe the ntsc version would fix it since I'm using the pal version and I remember that it was a pal setting I had to use to get it fixed for gamecube games

 

[kolenot]

I believe you can disconnect SDW/SCW from the U-AMP and that should force disable the HUD. It will also disable RVLoader's ability to see the U-AMP readout, but if the issues are from crosstalk then it may help.

That's about all I can suggest I'm afraid. I've run dry on my knowledge for the 4layertech boards

Just wanted to know bc it's preventing me from playing gc games with analog L and R.

The values seem to be too low and the moment I get more than 128, it just doesn't give me any values, same for when pressed.

I used the OG sliders from an official GC controller and I tried replacing 1 of them with the one from the BOM. Both have the same effect.

The digital input (as in the buttons themselves, digital settings make it 255 till pressed) seems to be ok.
I saw in some other topic that someone edited a GC2+ config file, could that maybe help me?

I also have a weird issue that it doesn't turn on arround the time that I charge the batteries, I only have to turn it on when plugged in and it works again. Sometimes it takes several tries. But once it's back on, it's going strong till I plug it back in. (Not preventing me from playing, just annoying)

Anyways, already enjoying the Ashida for the testing/playing I've done till now.
Gonna wait a bit till I'm gonna continue with my programming project.
I need a bit of a break to relax and take care of stuff and I got 1 thing I want to do before I continue with the programming of my RVLoader theme. (Also found a bug in my code while testing, so gotta fix that too)

 

[kolenot]

OMG, this gonna be so dumb and needs to be documented if what I think is true.
I charged the batteries a bit and I believe bc the % is 10% or above, that it's now gone and that the hud will stay on if the batteries are under 10%.
Tried both GC and wii games and with the GC I tried adjusting the brightness again and it went away after a second or 2 (as it should).

edit: Looks like that is the case, I played a bit and at 9% it popped up again, charged it, number got blue and the HUD went away
I still get to see it for a second when booting up a game, but till now it always was gone after and stayed that way.

I also noticed that the n64 virtual console games are positioned a bit low. Probably an rvl-dd issue. Is it already known and how hard would it be to add the gc options to the virtual console?
Maybe the ntsc version would fix it since I'm using the pal version and I remember that it was a pal setting I had to use to get it fixed for gamecube games

For the last part, while trying to start other games, I noticed it was with other virtual console games too and the fix that I used for the GC games doesn't work on all games. Most games that had this issue, solved it themselves after selecting 60Hz for the screen, otherwise I had to select Force Progressive in the menu which most of the time did nothing, but sometimes worked.

Right now I've tried to use the NTSC version for Animal Crossing which doesn't has this problem. I'll see if this also is the case for the other games. I'll add a list of all games I've tried so maybe you (as in people who want this info and can fix this issue) can try it yourself and might have more info what the cause of the issue could be. Right now I believe that it's mostly with older games which didn't support 60hz screens.

Update: Every single game worked fine for the NTSC version, but sometimes the pal version looked better, so it's a bit sad that the screen isn't perfectly adapted for these games (don't know what it exactly is and if it even can be fixed, but at least we know that the NTSC versions should work if PAL doesn't)

Games that don't rescale	Games that rescale (some of them needed 1 setting to be changed or 60hz selected in game)
Animal Crossing	Beyblade V Force
Avatar Legend of Aang	Billy Hatcher
Crash bandicoot wrath of cortex	Chibi Robo
Harry Potter 2	Digimon Rumble Arena 2
Megaman Network Transmission	Fzero GX
Pac man world 2	Harry Potter 1
Pac man world 3	Kirby Airride
Pikmin	Mario Kart DD
spongebob battle for bikini bottom	Medabots Infinite
SSX Tricky	Megaman X Command Mission
Vexx	Paper Mario TTYD
Wario World	Pikmin 2
Spyro Enter the dragon fly ?	Pokemon XD Gale of Darkness
Harry Potter 4	Sonic adventure 2 Battle
	Sonic adventure DX
	Sonic Riders
	Sonic Heroes
	Spider Man
	Spyro Hero's Tail
	Star Fox Assault
	Super Mario Sunshine
	SSB Melee
	Spyro a new beginning
	Zelda 4 swords adventure
	viewtiful Joe Rumble
	viewtiful Joe
	viewtiful Joe 2
	Harry Potter 3

 

[kolenot]

Been enjoying it, but I've tried too much to make wiiware games work and now it's broken. -_-
I reinstalled priiloader and once I turned it off, I got a black screen. (Apparently it was still working and booted on the wii menu, I heard the wii menu through the speakers) I've tried to let it boot on rvloader by changing the settings in prioloader, but I couldn't get it to work (kinda hard without seeing anything). Then I noticed that one of the wifi cables broke, so I tried to remove it, but the via itself was also broken.

1 of the vias on the flexcable itself also broke when disassembling, which could also have been the cause of the black screen.

Conclusion: wifi isn't worth it and wiiware doesn't work at all on PAL wii's with rvloader since I haven't gotten it to work and went through all possible settings. (Or at least the ones I know.
Everything else worked. So I hope that I can get the screen to work again on the next wii without flex cables since I don't want to pay 30€ for a cable or 200€ for another rvldd. Worst case I'll have to use the blue driverboard.

 

[kolenot]

New Wii has arrived, no homebrew installed and only 2 save states for games.
Gives me hope for no CIOS.
I already replaced the fan this weekend and prepared some wires now that the flex cables can't be used in the intended way anymore.
Today modding, trimming tomorrow.

 

[Stitches]

Good luck!

 

[kolenot]

Haven't started trimming yet, I wanted to try some stuff out so I don't break anything.
While doing this, I started to understand 1 of the issues I had, but never bothered to fix.
The hacks_hash file for preloader (the file that determines the settings changes) is just broken. I could copy the one you get when you install priiloader, but it seems that some options that are RVLoader related would be missing.
Don't know if it would cause any issues if I ended up switching them.

I also for the first time installed RVLoader without pre installing priiloader. (I only found 1 guide, the one with the cios, when I started working on the ashida and he also installed priiloader before rvloader)

the only mystery I still have to solve is wiiware.
Right now I'm way too obsessed to fix this while I'll probably only play like 2 games that are wiiware only XD.
I've recently tried to install rvloader with the previous IOS version for IOS58, since that's what the guide for cios tells you to install (don't worry, I just used NUSGet and reinstalled RVLoader).
But still no luck. Still black screen and loss of bluetooth on launch of a wiiware game. Gonna reinstall rvloader with the latest version.

Also, just found what would've saved my last wii (probably)

Question Thread 'Maybe Ashida bricked wii'

Nov 20, 2025

Hi everyone, as the title says i have a problem with my ashida.
I almost completed the project exept minor issues. One of them is that I can't access wii system because of some errors. I opened priiloader from rvloader and clicked system menu, and it shows the errors in this photo.

Someone had a similar issue and a guy said that the problem was priiloader not updated. I tried ways to update it but i fucked up...
I put installer and loader in the apps folder of the ashida, booted priiloader, and used the install files functions to install priiloader, then used load priiloader. It...

• Portable_Noob
• ashida bricked console wii
• Replies: 23
• Forum: Wii

 

[Stitches]

Haven't started trimming yet, I wanted to try some stuff out so I don't break anything.
While doing this, I started to understand 1 of the issues I had, but never bothered to fix.
The hacks_hash file for preloader (the file that determines the settings changes) is just broken. I could copy the one you get when you install priiloader, but it seems that some options that are RVLoader related would be missing.
Don't know if it would cause any issues if I ended up switching them.

I also for the first time installed RVLoader without pre installing priiloader. (I only found 1 guide, the one with the cios, when I started working on the ashida and he also installed priiloader before rvloader)

the only mystery I still have to solve is wiiware.
Right now I'm way too obsessed to fix this while I'll probably only play like 2 games that are wiiware only XD.
I've recently tried to install rvloader with the previous IOS version for IOS58, since that's what the guide for cios tells you to install (don't worry, I just used NUSGet and reinstalled RVLoader).
But still no luck. Still black screen and loss of bluetooth on launch of a wiiware game. Gonna reinstall rvloader with the latest version.

Also, just found what would've saved my last wii (probably)

Question Thread 'Maybe Ashida bricked wii'

Nov 20, 2025

Hi everyone, as the title says i have a problem with my ashida.
I almost completed the project exept minor issues. One of them is that I can't access wii system because of some errors. I opened priiloader from rvloader and clicked system menu, and it shows the errors in this photo.

Someone had a similar issue and a guy said that the problem was priiloader not updated. I tried ways to update it but i fucked up...
I put installer and loader in the apps folder of the ashida, booted priiloader, and used the install files functions to install priiloader, then used load priiloader. It...

• Portable_Noob
• ashida bricked console wii
• Replies: 23
• Forum: Wii

RVLoader's installer is a one and done system. It's not required to install Priiloader before running it, and actually might cause file conflicts if a different version already exists.

Wiiware is a very mixed bag compared to Virtual Console. Compatibility is not good due to some titles trying to use unpatched calls for things like the disc drive. Personally I would give up on Wiiware unless and until Aurelio comes back with a compatibility patch. At this point you're just making problems for yourself for no benefit.

 

[kolenot]

RVLoader's installer is a one and done system. It's not required to install Priiloader before running it, and actually might cause file conflicts if a different version already exists.

Wiiware is a very mixed bag compared to Virtual Console. Compatibility is not good due to some titles trying to use unpatched calls for things like the disc drive. Personally I would give up on Wiiware unless and until Aurelio comes back with a compatibility patch. At this point you're just making problems for yourself for no benefit.

Any idea which version of priiloader is in RVLoader?
I finally know why I have the issue with the hacks settings. RVLoader probably uses an older version which can't read the newer settings.

I also got wiiware working again. Now on my CIOS wii. All I had to do was install a wad with wadmanager. (I installed 3 wiiware games, 2 of them are the possible cause of enabling wiiware in RVLoader)
Bad news regarding this is that wadmanager needs the CIOS, IOS56-64-v5661.wad (revision <65535>), bc that's the one that was installed on slot 249 which I used to install the wads that enabled the RVLoader wiiware. Which is currently a stubb.

So as for now I have 1 wiiware/cios wii and 1 trimmable wii.

At least 1 step closer to understanding how this works. (glad I can right now at least provide a solution)

 

[kolenot]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if Aurelio is gonna fix it so we don't need any cios, then wiiware should work again for me right?
I'm at least looking forward to new gc mappings he's working on. I want to test it out for him, but he's also from the pal region, so I don't think he'll need me for testing.

 

[Stitches]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if Aurelio is gonna fix it so we don't need any cios, then wiiware should work again for me right?
I'm at least looking forward to new gc mappings he's working on. I want to test it out for him, but he's also from the pal region, so I don't think he'll need me for testing.

When and if such an update is released, yes, generally updating the RVLoader files on the USB is sufficient. A major update might require a safe-mode in-place reinstall, but that has a special button combo to do easily.

You can volunteer to be a tester regardless. The Wii's "region" system is entirely software. There are no hardware differences between PAL and NTSC like in the N64 or PS2, so the region sample size isn't as segregated. I did some testing for him some years ago to get data for Gamecube game raw display resolutions. I only had a few samples for him, but it helped with DD development.

 

[kolenot]

Finally started working again on the Ashida.
Disassembled the wii and relocated U10, I broke 1 of the U5 pads, but I could easily add a wire to the correct via and it's booting up the wii correctly (opened rvloader too since it's still untrimmed)
Trimming tomorrow.

 

[kolenot]

I wired the RVL-DD without the flexcable, had some quality issues, fixed them by reflowing 54 and GND. But I noticed that it's stuck in 4:3 aspect ratio.
I've tried to see the wii settings, but it's on 16:9 and it was on 480p. Switched it to 480i but nothing changed (will switch it back later).
Booting a wii game also happens in 4:3.
Is there a certain wire related to the aspect ratio or some other settings I might want to check?
Kinda running out of ideas of what it might be.
The only 2 things I still have to add are the audio wires and the MX chip (only DI and CK are currently wired since they were wired up before)

I would love to post a picture of the wiring, but I feel like it's too chaotic due to the broken flexcable of the RVL-DD (I use the pads to connect everything that needs multiple connections like DI/CK, audio wires, SCW/SDW.

 

[kolenot]

I believe I got it reliably fixed now and the issue was with SDW. Also encountered issues with the audio, but I fixed it and it might be the jankiest RVL-DD connection.
But if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
(yes, I cut the flexcable and then cut out the audio part, everything worked that way except the C wire. I had no idea what wasn't working properly till then)

 

[kolenot]

Finished Build, let's hope that it doesn't break