Worklog Ashida Worklog

[JBmodz]

Update: Rvloader is installed on the system and trim lines are made, I plan to do the trim sometime this weekend.

 

[kolenot]

Looks good, as a couple of hints, trim at the outside of the line. You can allways sand till the marker lines are gone.
You can also keep the 4th screwpost. It's not needed to have it, but it can help keeping the wii more stable in the case.
And remove the silver cooling pads.

I know Ginger moved the U10 before trimming once, you can do that too.
After testing the U10 or just in general before you trim. Remove the circle components around the trimlines. Every component stuck on the board that's not needed can get in your way and can rip off partially the protection layer of the pcb.
It's probably not gonna cause issues though.

You might also trim the AV port for easy testing after the trim since the av port only needs 2 cables for testing.

 

[JBmodz]

Looks good, as a couple of hints, trim at the outside of the line. You can allways sand till the marker lines are gone.
You can also keep the 4th screwpost. It's not needed to have it, but it can help keeping the wii more stable in the case.
And remove the silver cooling pads.

I know Ginger moved the U10 before trimming once, you can do that too.
After testing the U10 or just in general before you trim. Remove the circle components around the trimlines. Every component stuck on the board that's not needed can get in your way and can rip off partially the protection layer of the pcb.
It's probably not gonna cause issues though.

You might also trim the AV port for easy testing after the trim since the av port only needs 2 cables for testing.

Ok, I dont think I'll do the u10, is there any reason to do it when you have a pms?

 

[kolenot]

Ok, I dont think I'll do the u10, is there any reason to do it when you have a pms?

OG U10 is more reliable apparently. I did it for the last few ones.
It's also one of the eassier things. So good to start with.

 

[JamesPi]

Emulation U10 should be fine, I've never noticed any issues that I would attribute to U10, and I use my portable quite often. Though there has been one or two times where the portable hasn't turned on for a few extra seconds, or needed to power cycle it, but I can't isolate that to U10, and it's a momentary issue anyways. I would suggest trying to relocate U10 though just because it's good practice.

 

[Stitches]

Ok, I dont think I'll do the u10, is there any reason to do it when you have a pms?

OG U10 is more reliable apparently. I did it for the last few ones.
It's also one of the eassier things. So good to start with.

Not much reason to use U10 over emulation, but when using emulation you must keep the wire as short as possible. The signal is fairly weak and can lose enough voltage over a couple of extra inches to cause boot failure. Keep the wire thin and reasonably short and U10 emulation is perfectly fine.

 

[JBmodz]

Trim is done and here are the resistances, I think there may be a short with the 3.3v rail, as I was getting some strange behavior with it, all voltages and ground read around 2k when probed to the 3.3v rail but sometimes read 5k which then started climbing to 8k within 10 seconds of holding the meter to them, I marked them with an arrow to show this, 1v to 3.3v also did this but I forgot to draw an arrow. Gnd to 3.3v was 1.9k not 1k, forgot to correct that. can anyone let me know if anything else looks wrong with the other resistances or anything to note on my trim?

 

[Stitches]

I'm not sure why the resistances would increase during probing, but your nominal values are within acceptable parameters.

You do have a couple of damaged components on the edge of the trim. I would remove those components before supplying voltage in case they are causing the resistance instability.

 

[JBmodz]

I'm not sure why the resistances would increase during probing, but your nominal values are within acceptable parameters.

You do have a couple of damaged components on the edge of the trim. I would remove those components before supplying voltage in case they are causing the resistance instability.

the 3.3v rail also sometimes reads 1k to gnd or the other rails, is that still acceptable?

 

[Stitches]

the 3.3v rail also sometimes reads 1k to gnd or the other rails, is that still acceptable?

Yeah that should be fine. I believe as long as it's over 500ohms-ish the 3.3v logic reference should be fine.

 

[JBmodz]

Soldered all voltages to the pms and the wii, can anyone point out if there are any obvious flaws before I wire u10 and power test?

 

[JamesPi]

You need a 1.8v reference line. Even though you don't have the PMS-2, the PMS-Lite uses 1.8v for i2c and maybe some other things.

 

[Stitches]

Long wires can cause voltage drop, especially on the U10 emulation line. If you have boot troubles, shortening the wires would be a good first step.

 

[JBmodz]

U10 is wired up, I tried to test for continuity but got nothing, but it may be because my meters probes are to big for that small of a point.

 

[JBmodz]

Basically everything is wired and ready for the first power on test, will it damage anything if there is a between layer short on the female av port piece of the board?

 

[JamesPi]

There shouldn't be any shorts, but if you can visibly see a short, you could always check the compendium to see what's shorting and whether or not it'll be detrimental.

 

[JBmodz]

There shouldn't be any shorts, but if you can visibly see a short, you could always check the compendium to see what's shorting and whether or not it'll be detrimental.

Ok, and to wire up the port all I have to do is run composite and gnd from it to the wii, right?

 

[JamesPi]

Ok, and to wire up the port all I have to do is run composite and gnd from it to the wii, right?

Correct. Here's a diagram of where you can wire it to:

 

[kolenot]

I prefer to solder it at to top of the board myself.(or bottom if installed in the Ashida)
Shouldn't matter 1 side has bigger solder points, the other is easier to access when the ashida is installed.

 

[Stitches]

Basically everything is wired and ready for the first power on test, will it damage anything if there is a between layer short on the female av port piece of the board?

Minor signal/voltage to GND shorts are the most common and quite rarely damage anything. It's signal to voltage and voltage to voltage shorts that break things. Afaik the risk of a signal to voltage short in that area is pretty minimal, so you should be good to give it a test boot