Ashida Wii Portable

Some (long) time ago, a user @Darkside19 suggested using this fan (model MF35100V2-1000U-A99) instead of the fan listed on the bom. I ordered one a long time ago but couldn't be bothered to switch it because that meant pretty much taking the whole thing appart lol. Anyway, I made a case swap yesterday and took the opportunity to finally try it out... It works sooooooo much better than the one listed on the BOM. It's quieter at full speed, and can actually run at slower speeds without making strange noises. I suggest updating the BOM with this one instead.
 
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Some (long) time ago, a user suggested using this fan (model MF35100V2-1000U-A99) instead of the fan listed on the bom. I ordered one a long time ago but couldn't be bothered to switch it because that meant pretty much taking the whole thing appart lol. Anyway, I made a case swap yesterday and took the opportunity to finally try it out... It works sooooooo much better than the one listed on the BOM. It's quieter at full speed, and can actually run at slower speeds without making strange noises. I suggest updating the BOM with this one instead.
if you mean my suggest from 2024 you're welcome, you can also use the MF35100V2-1000U-S99 but I think only the A99 you mentioned can be ordered.
 
if you mean my suggest from 2024 you're welcome, you can also use the MF35100V2-1000U-S99 but I think only the A99 you mentioned can be ordered.
yes I very much think it was you who suggested it lol. Sorry, it was such a long time ago and couldn't remember haha. Thanks for the suggestion, the console has improved massively without that annoying fan at full speed constantly.
 
Thanks for posting it. I've ordered it myself together with stuff for the xiisbar.
Your timing of posting this was perfect for me.
Just broke my wii board while trying to get wiiware to work on my ashida. (Domino effect of breaking stuff while trying to fix other stuff)
 
Hey Everyone!

As I am sourcing out the parts for my build, I am wondering if it is worth the extra $15 for the PMS-2 over the PMS-Lite. As far as I can tell, the wiring is pretty similar, so I was wondering what the best option was.
 
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Hey Everyone!

As I am sourcing out the parts for my build, I am wondering if it is worth this extra $15 for the PMS-2 over the PMS-Lite. As far as I can tell, the wiring is pretty similar, so I was wondering what the best option was.
I believe the original PMS2 has a better battery life indicator than the PMS Lite. I think the 1.8v rail is also missing off the PMS Lite. You technically don't need the 1.8v rail if you don't remove the LDO on the Wii, but some portables require the removal of the LDO for clearance inside portable shells. The LDO is also slightly less efficient than the 1.8v provided by the PMS2.

TLDR: You probably want the PMS2.
 
Hey Everyone!

As I am sourcing out the parts for my build, I am wondering if it is worth the extra $15 for the PMS-2 over the PMS-Lite. As far as I can tell, the wiring is pretty similar, so I was wondering what the best option was.
The pms 2 has an accurate fuel gauge for battery life while the lite estimates it by voltage from the battery, the lite also omits the 1.8v regulator, meaning you dont remove the 1.8v regulator from the wii if you use the lite, I think those are the only main differences.
 
It's for you to decide but I personally think it's worth it. better battery life with a better 1.8v LDO, better battery power reading and U10 emulation is nice to have if you mess up your U10 chips (although maybe the lite also has it? can't remember lol)...
 
I'm currently in the preparation stages for building an Ashida and want to base it's colors off the Wii theme (White casing with sky blue buttons, joysticks, and triggers). I am a bit worried about these not having the traditional feel that gamecube controllers have (primarily on the joysticks). Does anyone have an recommendations on where I should be purchasing or if there is a better alternative?
 
I'm currently in the preparation stages for building an Ashida and want to base it's colors off the Wii theme (White casing with sky blue buttons, joysticks, and triggers). I am a bit worried about these not having the traditional feel that gamecube controllers have (primarily on the joysticks). Does anyone have an recommendations on where I should be purchasing or if there is a better alternative?
Just printed a case myself, It feels great in my opinion, but ive never used an oem GC controller, cant really speak for the sticks yet, if by joystick you mean the stickbox, then I would harvest them from a wii classic controller since they are the same sticks as GC controllers (this is what im doing) they use The T3 versions I believe, which is the most reliable stickbox, if you mean it by stick cap, I assume the best cap for the most accurate feel would be ones from an oem GC controller, or some custom resin moulded ones from someone like madmorda, I myself am getting the buttons and stick covers from aliexpress, but I doubt they will feel OEM.
 
Just printed a case myself, It feels great in my opinion, but ive never used an oem GC controller, cant really speak for the sticks yet, if by joystick you mean the stickbox, then I would harvest them from a wii classic controller since they are the same sticks as GC controllers (this is what im doing) they use The T3 versions I believe, which is the most reliable stickbox, if you mean it by stick cap, I assume the best cap for the most accurate feel would be ones from an oem GC controller, or some custom resin moulded ones from someone like madmorda, I myself am getting the buttons and stick covers from aliexpress, but I doubt they will feel OEM.
For the record, the sliders inside the earlier white Wii Classic controllers are also the same as the ones used inside the GameCube controller, and the right angled tact switches inside them will also work for the dual Z buttons on the Ashida.
 
Where would be the best place to get the case printed? Every place I have found is around 80 for the case alone (not including mounts). I could split up the stl file since I have access to a Prusa i3 MK3S but I am not sure how well that would work. Would also need to print in PLA.
 
Where would be the best place to get the case printed? Every place I have found is around 80 for the case alone (not including mounts). I could split up the stl file since I have access to a Prusa i3 MK3S but I am not sure how well that would work. Would also need to print in PLA.
If you want to get it printed for you, Search 3d print on this forum, look for CYs 3d print service, he makes great quality fdm printed shells. Or if you want to print yourself, print it one half at a time using the given 3mf files from the ashidas main thread, you will need to fiddle with print settings to get it right
 
Another parts question, the link for the volume wheel is currently out of stock (and isn't supposed to get back in stock for another few months), so I have looked around but haven't been able to find anything. Does anybody know where to find alternatives?
 
Another parts question, the link for the volume wheel is currently out of stock (and isn't supposed to get back in stock for another few months), so I have looked around but haven't been able to find anything. Does anybody know where to find alternatives?
I'd look at the datasheet for the resistances and find a volume wheel with similar package and size and same specs on other sites like digikey
 
Another parts question, the link for the volume wheel is currently out of stock (and isn't supposed to get back in stock for another few months), so I have looked around but haven't been able to find anything. Does anybody know where to find alternatives?
I just used some off of ebay, make sure they look the same value and I think there called b103 or something like that.
 
Another parts question, the link for the volume wheel is currently out of stock (and isn't supposed to get back in stock for another few months), so I have looked around but haven't been able to find anything. Does anybody know where to find alternatives?
Any pots that match the following word salad will do: B103 10k linear dial/wheel potentiometers.

You can use B105 ones if you cut off the extra two legs, but the main thing is to be sure to buy pots marked as linear or linear taper, and not audio, audio taper, or logarithmic taper. Those pots are designed to be inline with an analog audio signal and will make controlling the digital audio level very tricky.
 
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