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I see some solder debris here you'll want to get rid of: You never know what sort of short this kind of solder/wire debris can cause, so please ensure you get rid of any that you find in your shell! It looks like you have VGA enabled, but it doesn't seem like you have 3.3v soldered to mode...

At this point, it honestly sounds like this is either an oversight, or there's something in the documentation that you're missing. Could genuinely be either, and it may be worth contacting @Gman about this. I would help more if I could, but I've never used Wii HUD before outside of the G-Boy...

I apologize, I misinterpreted the information on your original post here. I'm a bit confused here still, doesn't the U-Amp documentation have everything you need for it to work? If so, why are you looking at the RVLAmp? It looks like it works a bit differently on the U-Amp than it does on...

The diagram says that the RVLAmp has pull up resistors on it already. Also, I would personally recommend having Wii HUD disabled. WiiHUD is already enabled for the battery life percentage in games, and there's really no need to have a volume bar visualizer. Some games have visual artifacting...

That's a super clean print dude! Happy I was able to help! I probably should've also remembered that tidbit about the sync button being pulled high when I was trying to help earlier, but it escaped me then. Cheers!

I would be more worried about ensuring the voltages between the batteries are virtually identical. The voltages need to be close to in order to avoid any problems with over charging which can lead to fires that are extremely difficult to put out. So if both of your batteries read 3.7V or one...

I'm no expert, but if your bluetooth module didn't have any ground connected to it at all, then I don't think it's possible to break it. It may be wire length, or it may also be the solder joints (on 4 layer Wiis you need to solder to .1mm traces, although I'm not sure how it works in this...

It looks like we're finally reaching the end of this project. With help from @Xenii and @YveltalGriffin I've settled on this for the final board design: I've been test fitting the buttons: Everything feels good to press! I had to model and print my own pause buttons due to how far down the...

Please forgive me for not recognizing you. Are you able to refresh my memory on who you are and how we've interacted before? It can be in DMs or over Discord or whatever. When you asked this question: I was under the impression you were looking for the resistor values on the screen control...

Power: R5 - 10K Ω Menu: R6 - 22.1K Ω Source: R7 - 6.82K Ω +: R8 - 20k Ω -: R9 - 680 Ω Let me know if these work. There's no reason they shouldn't but It'd help to verify I took my readings correctly.

Very cool! Thanks a lot for sharing!

VGA is honestly a rite of passage in this community. Were you able to verify each of the color channels properly? It sounds like you don't have USB wired up yet, and if that's the case, you'll just have white text on a black background - not ideal for verifying the colors. Great work either...

I read the title of this thread and I was like "oh neat! a clamshell PS2 portable!" and then I saw what this actually is. This is super cool dude! I think this is probably the first portable with a folding screen like this! Did you do any documentation for the screen so more people can...

To print the front half for this sort of thing, I like to print at something like a 45 degree angle - the same way an Ashida gets printed: You can see the support material under where the shell ends. So basically just apply this idea to the front and back halves of the Dreamcast controller...

Hi! I've not seen you post before but I can see you've been around for a while. Welcome back to portablizing! Also I love your signature haha. Greetings aside. The soldering here has a bit of room for improvement. The third capacitor has a really big ugly blob, I don't know if that's...

@YveltalGriffin recently made a forum post which I've linked here that covers where to find high capacity high quality 18650s and 21700s from reputable sources, and I wanted to post that along with a few other parts here for documentation purposes. Amprius SA110 (4000mAh 18650)...

I'll never get over this beauty! It really is eye candy in PCB form. So glad I was able to contribute! One of these days I want do design a portable with it!

24 AWG sounds good yes, you'll want to use this gauge for everything that carries a higher current load (so things like the battery wires, the charging wires, Screen power, Wii power, etc). If you're going to build an Ashida, as stated above, the 18650s are smaller than 21700s so you'll end up...

I forgot to comment on this when I first saw it. That shell looks absolutely beautiful! The GameCube stickers are such a nice touch!

It's high time I post an update! Cyxty Four rev 2 has been coming along very well! The IO being routed on the motherboard (instead of under or above it like in most designs) has left me with a TON of extra room for cooling! It left me with so much extra room in fact, I came very close to...