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A couple notes -Did you check your resistances between your voltage lines after trimming? If not, read up on Nold's "Wii Trim Resistances" thread and fill out his table. -You jumped a considerable amount in grits when sanding. I usually do 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1000. Also wet...

I like to use a 12V 2A supply for my Micros; even though it's not necessary, I'm comfortable with having more headroom. Here's my Noldendo (powered by an original RVL-PSU) playing Mario Galaxy:

For future reference, it's best to make your own thread when your post doesn't pertain to other threads. That being said, the best thing for you to do would be to read up on The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide, as that holds most of the info needed to trim a Wii and rewire everything to it. As for...

Yup! Worth a shot

Oh, then try reformatting the USB. I've never heard of that brand, that could be an issue. A lot of people are using the Sandisk Ultra Fits with good success. Might be worth looking into.

What USB drive are you using? And are all of your files structured correctly?

Looking back through your photos, I don't see any wire between the mode via (or tp47) to 3v3, unless it's just out of shot. Mode needs to be wired to 3v3 for the wii to output VGA. For composite, just leave it floating. Did you have it wired up when testing VGA?

After it's stress tested at MGC, so sometime early next month.

Finally got around to putting the finishing touches on this sucker. Thanks @Y2K for the jewel files!!

Did you manually switch the screen to AV1 / AV2 when testing composite? That screen doesn't auto source iirc. I also don't remember if both of those composite lines work, so make sure to try both.

Maybe not a Noldendo since he chopped off the ports, but definitely some form of micro. Could be a fun design challenge!

You cannot use a 6 layer for a portable, especially if you're using a PMS. The PMS cannot supply enough current to power 6 layer boards.

What type of wire are you using? How are you twisting it? How long are you trying to make it? Ideally you'd use a drill to twist some magnet wire, and the run should be kept under 10cm for decent reliability.

Honestly, 800 should be fine for a 4 layer Wii, the 1000 is just a finisher to be 100% thorough. Thr bulk of thr sanding should happen at the lower levels, I usually aim to have clear layer separation by the 320 mark, and everything after that is smoothing it all out.

1v seems pretty normal to me. If anything, 1v15 seems a little high, I usually get something around 20-30 ohms. Believe it or not, sometimes having shorts on the edges of the board can cause higher resistances on the voltage lines (at least in my experience). For 3v3, you're expecting something...

It looks like your translator isn't working right with the forums, it would be best to copy your post into google translate, and copy / paste the response here in English. Right now, your response is being included in the quote and it's all in Spanish.

You could just run a twisted pair from the vias to the pins on the port. You won't have the protection from CM1/2, but you'll restore the onboard USB ports' functionality. Regarding the memory card ports, I find it much easier to physically break thr plastic / metal retaining brackets with some...

There is a link right below the main one for the mounts / buttons in the Ashida thread

Uh.... it doesn't use anything from the Wii... not sure where that came from. It's just a new revision that has a 1v8 reg and uses readily-available parts from digikey.

If it's black, it's a 4-layer.