Worklog Joe Cool Ashida summer 2026

[Joe Cool]

Hello I am trying my hand at making a portable Wii. I have ordered the stuff from 4Layer and have started with 3d printing the case the printer I am using is a Elegoo Neptune 4. I am posting my progress so if I get stuck I can get some help. Here Is a picture of the bottom half of the shell.

 

[PizzaPerpetrator]

good luck, and have fun

 

[Joe Cool]

I printed the top half of the Ashida shell yesterday and am now working on smoothening and sanding them out. I was thinking of painting it a dark blue and making it look like the Galaxy edition of the 3ds or paint it black and add gold accents to it. If anyone else has other good ideas I am definitely open to other suggestions if anyone has them.

 

[PizzaPerpetrator]

I think if you’re a skilled enough painter, making it look like the galaxy edition could be sick as hell, but if you aren’t confident enough in your painting skills, I’d just do the black and gold.

 

[Joe Cool]

Another thing I need to consider is button colors if I should follow the 3ds buttons and make them black with colored letters or stick with the original Gamecube button colors. I am leaning toward painting them similar to 3ds buttons.

 

[Joe Cool]

Today I put filler on the shell then sanded it I can see how rough my 3d print of the case was. I am glad i did this and would suggest doing the same to anyone FDM printing the case. I have also installed the custom firmware on my Wii. As for a colors update I think I am going to go with a dark blue and paint constellations on the back. I am not very skilled at painting so this is as close to the Galaxy edition of the 3DS I can get but, I still think it is going to look awesome.
The sanded down shell

The shell with its donor

 

[Joe Cool]

I have started on the PCB assembly and I have painted the shell dark blue and am getting ready to paint the constellations onto the back.

 

[PizzaPerpetrator]

its looking real nice man

 

[Joe Cool]

I finally got back around to working on the portable again and I painted the backside with constellations and just need to add a clear coat. I also painted on the front but I am not satisfied with how it looks so I am going to sand it down and repaint the front half.

 

[Joe Cool]

I finally got around to actually doing the motherboard trim for the wii and I am having trouble with it. As I was testing with the multimeter all of the voltage lines seem fine except for the 3.3v which registers absolutely nothing. I am not sure if I cut too far and ruined a component or knocked off a part. If anyone could help give me direction if my problem is fixable or if I need to find a new wii that would be very helpful.

 

[randomguy]

Nah, your wii looks good on the trimming part but you forgot to relocate the u10.
Here is how you Can Do

And also,for the future,I recommend you to get off the metal plate of the 1.8v regulator,I think it will help the future wiring.

 

[Joe Cool]

Is the U10 relocation necessary if I am using the 4layer tech PMS 2? When I was watching Ginger of OZ's stream on wii trimming he said the relocation wasn't needed but you still have to run a wire to the U10 via from the PMS 2. If the trim looks good, what are some possible reasons the 3.3v lines would not have any resistances? And 1 last question what is the best way to get that metal plate for the 1.8v regulator if I don't have access to a hot air station?

 

[randomguy]

Oh ok,that's will be good in that case.Well,for the resistance I don't really,I usually wire it anyway,and for the metal plate you can just put some soldier on the top of the 1.8v print,wait some Time and then you will feel that you can get it off,almost by itself,just as in butter

 

[Stitches]

Is the U10 relocation necessary if I am using the 4layer tech PMS 2? When I was watching Ginger of OZ's stream on wii trimming he said the relocation wasn't needed but you still have to run a wire to the U10 via from the PMS 2. If the trim looks good, what are some possible reasons the 3.3v lines would not have any resistances? And 1 last question what is the best way to get that metal plate for the 1.8v regulator if I don't have access to a hot air station?

No reading usually means the ohm range on the multimeter isn't set high enough. 3.3v to GND resistance can range from 1000 to 20k, which means it's likely fine.

To remove the base of the linear reg, crank your iron temp up 30c and apply liberal solder. Leave the iron heating it for a good half a minute and it should loosen up enough to lift off with tweezers.

You can also just leave it there. It doesn't do anything without its legs. I would remove that cut through 5v filter in the top right though