Worklog The Oopsii, a louii clone build

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Ordered the wrong screen for my gwii build(hence the name for this one, haha), so I figured I'd build another one since I have a couple cut motherboards around. Keeping the externals on this one nice and simple since the inside is going to be a PITA. Already printed and sanded the case and got the buttons and analog sticks in. 4layer order just came in today so gonna focus on the Oopsii while I wait for the gwii screen to come in.

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So I did have it up and running(just running off composite cause I forgot to click yes for vga patches, gonna rerun installer once I get it running again) with the pms2 for long enough to ensure it was booting, then to ensure my usb drive was soldered correctly. Went back to it after eating dinner and the microcontroller in the bottom left of the pms was hot, and now it wont show any signs of life. Really hoping I didnt just literally blow up $75US... cant see anything bridging and followed the wiring guides on the 4 layer site to a T as far as I can tell. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

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RoseDagger

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I had a board that overheated come back to life when I let it rest for like a day, so trying again later might help...

Did you check the resistance between the voltages before you wired it up? As to check that there are no shorts / that the sides have been sanded fine enough?
Btw you only need one ground wire and one 3.3v wire, they are internally connected, though I don't think it will make any difference between having multiple.
Haven't see any shorts immediately from the pictures, maybe the look at the backside of the wii?
Or again maybe the sides have not been sanded fine enough? If it booted and worked for a while, it might not be a direct short, but rather the resistance that is too low so that it consumed more power than intended?

Also, from what I have gathered on this forum, I think the cpu is what produces the most heat, so the small heatsink on it is probably not enough to run for any significant time. This is just conjecture, but if the wii overheated first and failed, it might have overdrawn power from the pms causing it to fail afterward?

Also, check the battery voltage, if it ran for a while they might just be low, causing the pms to not power on due to low voltage?
 
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The second 3.3 is where I wired up the screen power, same as one of the grounds. And install instructions for the pms board specifically state it's better to have multiple grounds. Used 240, 320, 600, then 1500 grit for the board edges. Got my measurements in the trim resistance thread. Only ran it for short periods of time to make sure it was booting, heatsinks were still cool to the touch when I shut it off. The microcontroller was the only thing that was above room temp when I came back to it, and immediately heats back up as soon as i connect the battery.

Edited to add battery voltage is at 3.9. Will find my external lipo charger in the morning and charge it and try again just in case.
 
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For a test, try to disconnect the A and L+, and any of the wires by the microcontroller except for the button
Just as a safety I removed ALL wires when I let it rest overnight, charged my battery back up to 4.2 in an external charger. Gonna get some coffee in me and start tinkering again. So I'll connect up just the voltages and ground to the board, battery, and switch to test right?
 

Gman

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For this test I would just wire the battery and the button. if it still has an issue, there is no point in continuing until that basic test is working.
 
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For this test I would just wire the battery and the button. if it still has an issue, there is no point in continuing until that basic test is working.
It appears to be fully dead. Freshly charged battery, only voltage line I get a reading on is the 5 volt and that's well under a volt at best. Microcontroller didnt get warm to the touch this time though. No change on any voltage lines after pressing power button. Even tried holding it down between 3 and 10 seconds multiple times. There anyway to recover a dud pms 2? Would be a shame to throw away something that cost me 100 bucks and worked for all of maybe 5 minutes.

Edited to add getting a full 5 volts on the f+. Might be a dead micro? I have the means to swap it out if that's the case.
 
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Gman

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It appears to be fully dead. Freshly charged battery, only voltage line I get a reading on is the 5 volt and that's well under a volt at best. Microcontroller didnt get warm to the touch this time though. No change on any voltage lines after pressing power button. Even tried holding it down between 3 and 10 seconds multiple times. There anyway to recover a dud pms 2? Would be a shame to throw away something that cost me 100 bucks and worked for all of maybe 5 minutes.
One of the components on the board might be damaged. Probably the mcu and maybe another possibly. I really cant say for sure without seeing it. If you want you can ship it to me and I will try my best to repair it if I can diagnose it. If I can fix it i'll only charge cost of replaced component and shipping.

Did anything notable happen before this occurred? Perhaps touching it, removing the batteries, etc.
 
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One of the components on the board might be damaged. Probably the mcu and maybe another possibly. I really cant say for sure without seeing it. If you want you can ship it to me and I will try my best to repair it if I can diagnose it. If I can fix it i'll only charge cost of replaced component and shipping.

Did anything notable happen before this occurred? Perhaps touching it, removing the batteries, etc.
Was sitting on my workbench when I went to dinner, came back. Micro was HOT and and power button no longer worked, and if I plugged in power to charge it, it would either not work at all, or voltage would jump slightly on the battery about 2/3's of the time, but would just make a rapid click the other 1/3. Where abouts are you located?
 

Gman

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Was sitting on my workbench when I went to dinner, came back. Micro was HOT and and power button no longer worked, and if I plugged in power to charge it, it would either not work at all, or voltage would jump slightly on the battery about 2/3's of the time, but would just make a rapid click the other 1/3. Where abouts are you located?
I'm in new England area. It's about $3-4 to ship it 1st class mail in the US.
 
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I'm in new England area. It's about $3-4 to ship it 1st class mail in the US.
I'm in bc, canada(hence why the pms dying hurts the wallet even more). And just so I'm sure I'm not doing something totally stupid here, the power switch gets grounded, not pulled high right? Still got the anti static bag and could probably just flatpak in a padded envelope if that works?
 
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Figured out with some help from Gman that I most likely fried u8, hopefully got the right part coming in(BQ24296RGER‎, only ones that werent over 10 bucks a pop and don't have a multiple 100's min order.). Also got the buttons and sticks wired up save for the dual tacts on the back half of the case and used another wii to configure it.

Edited to add I initially ordered the wrong chip, the correct one is BQ24292i. Should be in tonight or tomorrow morning then I'll update again. And thanks again for all the help Gman!
 

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New chip came in just before I was leaving for work yesterday. So after my morning coffee threw it in, cleaned up the board, and its alive again!!! Thanks Gman! Picture attached that I snapped while inspecting it with my usb microscope before firing it up. Will hopefully finish wiring it up after work today, then just waiting for the copper plate to come in so I can install the mobo in the case and finish wiring up and screwing everything down.

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About 99% complete. Just waiting on a proper sized fan(didnt notice amazon came up with a 30x30x7 fan when I searched for 35x7). Is it normal to have a negative temp on screen? Redid the ntc board thinking that was it, it wasnt. Not sure if it's the smaller fan, or the negative temp why the fan's going full steam ahead. Its drowning out the audio from the speakers, haha. Other than that, it's coming along rather nicely. Also ran into a weird bug, not sure if its rv loader or nintendont related, but games that support progressive natively were hanging after the boot screen, but most that I forced progressive were fine. All games started booting fine after I deleted the iplusa.bin from my sd card.

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Aurelio

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About 99% complete. Just waiting on a proper sized fan(didnt notice amazon came up with a 30x30x7 fan when I searched for 35x7). Is it normal to have a negative temp on screen? Redid the ntc board thinking that was it, it wasnt. Not sure if it's the smaller fan, or the negative temp why the fan's going full steam ahead. Its drowning out the audio from the speakers, haha. Other than that, it's coming along rather nicely. Also ran into a weird bug, not sure if its rv loader or nintendont related, but games that support progressive natively were hanging after the boot screen, but most that I forced progressive were fine. All games started booting fine after I deleted the iplusa.bin from my sd card.

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The temperature bug was fixed in the latest version of RVLoader, make sure you have that.
I am not sure about the issue you are encountering with progressive games, I have never had that happening, but it seems to be related to Nintendont, since I believe you're talking about GC games.
 
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The temperature bug was fixed in the latest version of RVLoader, make sure you have that.
I am not sure about the issue you are encountering with progressive games, I have never had that happening, but it seems to be related to Nintendont, since I believe you're talking about GC games.
I had updated to 1.2 literally the day before 1.3 was released, so I didnt notice there was a new one, haha. Thanks for that. And yah, it was gc games. GC boot screen doesnt display in progressive(and I'm using a vga screen with patches), so got rid of the gc bios as it was redundant, and all my games started booting fine. Same games would lock up after the gc logo screen even when on composite too, maybe my bios file was corrupt? But then none of my games would have booted, so I'm back to square one, haha.
 
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About 99% complete. Just waiting on a proper sized fan(didnt notice amazon came up with a 30x30x7 fan when I searched for 35x7). Is it normal to have a negative temp on screen? Redid the ntc board thinking that was it, it wasnt. Not sure if it's the smaller fan, or the negative temp why the fan's going full steam ahead. Its drowning out the audio from the speakers, haha. Other than that, it's coming along rather nicely. Also ran into a weird bug, not sure if its rv loader or nintendont related, but games that support progressive natively were hanging after the boot screen, but most that I forced progressive were fine. All games started booting fine after I deleted the iplusa.bin from my sd card.

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Looking great! Even though it this was a mistake (as the name implies), it doesn't look like it for sure! Very clean design and good color choices. Love all of Ginger's designs, and you 100% did it justice.
 
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so, a sad update. had 1 screw post on the back half(one of the ones holding down the mobo), and one of the ones on the front half snap. so going to have to reprint the case in petg. was having issues with petg when i started this, but have since gotten my ender 3 printing GORGEOUSLY in petg. at least i only have to redo the dual tacts as far as wiring goes as they are fixed to the case with baking soda and super glue. everything else can be migrated. also had an oops(haha) installing the new fan. didnt notice my wire clipping had bridged the f+ and 5v pads, so my fan only pulses when hooked up to f- and f+, so got it wired up to 5 volts directly. only thing im on the fence about is do i order purple petg or print it in black? i do love the purple look, but i hate waiting, already done so much between both portables, haha.
 
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