Solved PMS not outputting voltage when 3.3v or 1.8v is connected on cut wii

[RoseDagger]

Soooo, I went a bit zealous when sanding down my wii, to get it to fit within the footprint of the display driver board. I had looked at the LMAO and OMEGA trims and the compendium to see if it felt safe, but I fully accept if I went too far without realizing it.

So connecting the PMS and PD works fine, and it charges, and connecting the display to 5v works fine and it turns on. And connecting ground, 1v and 1.15v to the wii works fine.
Buuut, when I connect either 1.8v or 3.3v or both the PMS, the PMS stops outputting voltage, the led does not turn on, nor does the display, and I don't think the cpu or the gpu heats up, but a bit unsure if I actually checked, as I normally disconnect the battery rather quickly when I get not voltage (measured on the 5v line as it was the most accessible one to probe.) When I disconnect 1.8v and 3.3v from the wii it works normally again, the led and display turns on fine.

The 3.3v => 1v is really high which seems weird I double checked, and I have gotten the same reading on different sages of sanding when I was closer to the standard cut, and the 3.3v is low on 5.6k but within the 4-8k range I have seen others say is supposed to be okey. (When the com probe is not on the 3.3v line the resistance drops to 1.4k)

The resistance has not changed over the sanding sessions. I have sanded the larger sections with a dremel, then sanded by hand with 400grit dry until all the dremel marks are gone and the main shape I wanted is in, then 800 grit wet, => 1000 grit wet => 1500 grit wet. All tapered towards the top side, and all the edges are smooth, and I can see the layers.

I have checked various points that the 3.3v line is internally connected and the 1.8v line is internally connected.

(I'm a bit worried that I did not tape over the cpu or gpu, and if there might be some of the sanding dust that has made its way into the socket or something? but don't know if that might be the cause of the behavior I see?)

I have tied both with the U10 connected and disconnected.

Several of the leads to the wii seem a bit awkward here, being a bit long and exposed, after disconnecting them and reconnecting them a few times, and not trimming them down when the plastic melted upwards, they were neater in the beginning when I first tested.
And I notice in this picture that the vsys for the led got disconnected while moving the cables to get a "better view" but it was fully connected and the led worked while I was testing the board, and while disconnecting and reconnecting cables to figure out which made the pms stop outputting voltage.

It's difficult to get a picture of the pms due to how the cables are routed for the end placement, I can desolder them and add new wires for purely testing if it is preferred.
(I have also checked that I have not mixed up any of the red wires for the 5v line and the 3.3v line) (The red and black cables are slightly thicker, at 28AWG vs 30AWG for the colored ribbon cables, so I used those for both the 3.3v and the 5v and the charge cables.) (All cables are stranded, I twist the ends after exposing them, then tin them before connecting them anywhere)

Is there any better picture that would help or something else I can do to test to try and save this board?

 

[Gman]

You need to be using 22awg wire for the wii power and battery. This is certainly an issue as the 28 wire will have voltage drop which could be the cause of your experience.

 

[RoseDagger]

You need to be using 22awg wire for the wii power and battery. This is certainly an issue as the 28 wire will have voltage drop which could be the cause of your experience.

Thanks, I'll get the correct size immediately.

Hmm, when I ordered the cables I ordered 0.6mm which was supposed to be 22awg I thought, but apparently, that was the size of the whole cable with insulation and not the copper itself, I forgot to confirm the size of the copper until the post above...

(I should have caught it twice if I paid attention, it felt weird when I first used them, it was the two smallest sizes on the cable stripper which surprised me, but I assumed it would be okey as I thought I had ordered the recommended size. Then again in the post above, even I felt 30 and 28 sounded wrong based on the numbers I thought I remembered from the forum here, but I just kept trusting that I had ordered the right cables when I first started the project... Ah well you learn from every mistake, so thanks.)

 

[RoseDagger]

Yes, using a higher gauge wire, especially to the battery, worked. The wires from the battery caddy were even thinner than the ones I had used to connect to the wii.
So with a battery that was not fully charged and voltage drops in the thin wires and the extra load from the wii compared to just the lcd caused the pms to not turn on.

Thanks