Question Wii RVL-001 (USA) CPU-20 - Has power but no Video or Audio output on either Component or Composite

[RepairGal]

Hi there,
Another Wii repair project here, this is one out of 4 Wii's I got from a lot recently for parts or service.

I want to bring it back to life, but I'm hitting a knowledge barrier and would like some more experienced input on my current findings.
The Wii is a North American system in pretty condition aesthetically, red LED comes on, and green LED lights up when triggering PS/ON, the disc drive initialized, accepts discs but won't spin them, syncing doesn't work, reset appears to do nothing, and no audio or video output, on either OEM Composite or aftermarket Component. (AV/TV setup is from 2008 and ruled out as an issue due to being tested with working units). At first, I assumed this was capacitor issue, and attempted to replace the video circuit related caps with fresh replacements, (I broke a pad in the process by accident, but was able to grab a nearby via terminated to the trace previously associated with the missing pad using 30awg enamel copper wire as a jumper). Cap replacement seems successful mostly but no change in video output.

I then attempted to bypass the video circuit using a method from the trim guides, where I bridged the composite pin and a related point of connection close to the AVE-RVL chip, via composite no output has been witnessed. I then started checking voltages on the AVE-RVL chip, and noticed that the 1.8v rails are getting 53mv roughly.

This is way too low, so I further investigated the nearby 1.8v regulator, which also shows a DC voltage of 33mv and 53mv, 53mv, can be measured at grounding points C5 and C180 as well. Input voltage for the regulator is at 3.3v which is expected, the wide termination output side of the regulator shows 53mv too.


Is this pointing to a bad regulator, is there any way to confirm, please teach me how to troubleshoot this, as I'm trying to break through into intermediate repair skills.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Below you will find a list of specs, symptoms, and images for quick reference.

|Specs|

Console: Nintendo Wii

Model: RVL-001

Region: NA

Board Revision: CPU-20

|Symptoms|

Issue: Red LED comes on, and green LED lights up when triggering PS/ON, the disc drive initialized, accepts discs but won't spin them, syncing doesn't work, reset appears to do nothing, and no audio or video output, on either OEM Composite or aftermarket Component. (AV/TV setup is from 2008 and ruled out as an issue due to being tested with working units).

|Theory|
Theory: Failed Sharp 1.8v regulator? - Please confirm.

|Images|

 

[CR33PER]

Hi! I think I may be experiencing the exact same issue as you.

I have a Wii RVL-001 with an RVL-CPU-20 motherboard. My console powers on, but I get no video output, and my Wiimote won't sync properly. The problem appeared after I removed the GameCube memory card connectors.

I measured the voltage on the 1.8V regulator, and I seem to be getting around 0.05V on one of the pins, while two other pins read around 3.3V. This seems very similar to your measurements.

Were you ever able to find the cause of the problem or fix your Wii? Could the regulator itself be faulty, or could something be shorting the 1.8V rail?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[RepairGal]

Hi! I think I may be experiencing the exact same issue as you.

I have a Wii RVL-001 with an RVL-CPU-20 motherboard. My console powers on, but I get no video output, and my Wiimote won't sync properly. The problem appeared after I removed the GameCube memory card connectors.

I measured the voltage on the 1.8V regulator, and I seem to be getting around 0.05V on one of the pins, while two other pins read around 3.3V. This seems very similar to your measurements.

Were you ever able to find the cause of the problem or fix your Wii? Could the regulator itself be faulty, or could something be shorting the 1.8V rail?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hi, I sure did! ☺️ I've been meaning to update this thread but have been very busy as of late. Being a young small tech repair shop and Linux Admin dealing with crippling credit debt be a very time consuming experience, ahaha!


Now yes, for me this was indeed a bad 1.8vdc sharp voltage regulator, I replaced mine from a donor board, (A unit with bumb gate video issues).

It works perfectly now, but it still wasn't displaying composite, ended up being a strange pickyness with composite cap filter, and I and ended up just shorting it with a small copper wire bridge/short.

Since you removed the GC ports, make sure you didn't short or damage the nearby voltage regulator traces and such, that is somewhat of a cirtical power zone..

Even if it is the regulator, you won't know till you get a proper reading, it must be tested out of circut, the best way to do this is to either lift it and test it on a voltage bench psu, or solder copper wire legs to the input side once lifted and leave the output side non terminated, this will let you confirm if the regulator died, if it's something else might be best to investigate the path and or AVE.

For removal, use lots of flux, and fresh solder on the pins, and then go straight to using your reflow gun, unless you have a better iron then me, but the reflow gun made removal and install easy as baking a pi. My final job was very clean. I'm sure I could improve but an acceptable result.

Here is a jank picture of me testing it in circuit on the input side. It was indeed dead.

 

[CR33PER]

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything and share your experience! I really appreciate your help.

I'm still quite a beginner when it comes to electronics. I actually started this Wii project mainly to practise, learn new things and improve my soldering and repair skills.

Unfortunately, I don't have professional equipment yet. I don't have a bench power supply or a hot air rework station, and even taking accurate measurements with a multimeter or removing components is still quite challenging for me.

I think I'll try to remove the 1.8V regulator and replace it with one from another donor board, if I can find one. Hopefully that will solve the problem!

Thanks again for your advice. It's really helpful, especially for someone who's still learning!